Ply thickness RANT

Page 3 of 3  

wrote:

BTW - The obvious question, which I neglected to address is:
"Do I then have to make a bunch of different setups to get the 1/4" tongue, given that the material is all kinda different thicknesses?'
Nope. You machine the tongues with the alleged half inch material on the vertical and the dado blade set with the lead cutter 1/4 (31/64") away from the fence.
It goes quickly. Use a featherboard and a tall fence.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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It goes even more quickly with a radial arm saw. Laying the material flat on the table top is much more stable than sliding it vertically along a tall fence.

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On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 02:09:12 GMT, Larry Kraus

Wouldn't tolerate one taking up shop space.
Never saw one that could maintain even depth over a twenty four inch dado.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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wrote:

I like radial arm saws, but I know EXACTLY of what you speak.
I have a friend who tried to cut a very hard peice of aluminium on his radial arm saw. It caused the arm to bend upward. If you tried to cut a 3/8' dado on a 9' board, the dado would start at 3/8' and end almost at the surface.
So what this guy did was to cut the dado from both directions. Then cut down the sides with a hand saw. Then chisel out the rest.
Not exactly fine woodworking.
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Lee Michaels wrote:

What are you people _doing_ to those poor saws? It sounds to me like you're trying to force the work. Let the saw do the work, feed it as fast as it cuts. If it flexes 3/8 inch while cutting a dado then you need to _fix_ it because it's _busted_.
--
--John
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"J. Clarke" wrote: ...

It's probably using that dado set after trying to cut aircraft Al w/ it... :) :(
I agree...unless the RAS in question is a real POS, it should be quite possible to do as accurate work as necessary...
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On Tue, 26 Apr 2005 14:58:31 -0400, "J. Clarke"

I've owned three radicalalarm saws, the most recent being an Italian made Dewalt that was intended for cabinet shop use (It was green-looked kinda funny in a Delta grey shopppe).
The deal on the most recent one was that it would crosscut to 25", thus making it useful in a casegoods shop, where tops have to be cut.
That sumbitch wouldn't hold a dado to depth, neither.
The geometry of the damned saw is all wrong for doing things that involve maintaining a given depth over the run of the arm.
It would only crosscut to within about a thirty-second, which I did not feel was good enough.
I've owned them, I've used them, I've treated them nice - they still suck.
The geometry is all wrong.
A buddy of mine has one of the old lumberyard style Dewalts, bulky as Bubba amd heavier than iron mound dirt, and he set it on ninety and tack welded it,
It still only cuts to within a thirty-second.
To me they are the Swiss Army Knife of fixed equipment - and suffer the same problems.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email) http://home.comcast.net/~tjwatson1/ (website)
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Use the Dadowiz to cut every dado to exactly the width of the board that is going into THAT dado. Extremely easy to use.
http://www.woodline.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproducth8
Bob

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bob wrote:

$159??? <G>
You can make a simple pantograph jig in 10 minutes that do just as well
It takes the dado width measurement right from the material, just like the $159 + shipping version.
Barry
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