What are you people _doing_ to those poor saws? It sounds to me like you're trying to force the work. Let the saw do the work, feed it as fast as it cuts. If it flexes 3/8 inch while cutting a dado then you need to _fix_ it because it's _busted_.
"J. Clarke" wrote: ...
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It's probably using that dado set after trying to cut aircraft Al w/ it... :) :(
I agree...unless the RAS in question is a real POS, it should be quite possible to do as accurate work as necessary...
I've owned three radicalalarm saws, the most recent being an Italian made Dewalt that was intended for cabinet shop use (It was green-looked kinda funny in a Delta grey shopppe).
The deal on the most recent one was that it would crosscut to 25", thus making it useful in a casegoods shop, where tops have to be cut.
That sumbitch wouldn't hold a dado to depth, neither.
The geometry of the damned saw is all wrong for doing things that involve maintaining a given depth over the run of the arm.
It would only crosscut to within about a thirty-second, which I did not feel was good enough.
I've owned them, I've used them, I've treated them nice - they still suck.
The geometry is all wrong.
A buddy of mine has one of the old lumberyard style Dewalts, bulky as Bubba amd heavier than iron mound dirt, and he set it on ninety and tack welded it,
It still only cuts to within a thirty-second.
To me they are the Swiss Army Knife of fixed equipment - and suffer the same problems.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (email)
It's been my experience with BB that the tolerances are very good.
I just experienced this problem a couple of weekends ago with a birch veneer core plywood from Menards. I bought 4 sheets of 3/4" plywood (from a stack that I had them open) and two of the four sheets were
24/32 and two were 23/32. I've never had this issue with BB (5x5 sheets).Jeff
I also ran into this problem with metal 1"x1" square tubing. Even though all the pieces were 1/16" wall, some had corners that were more rounded than others. When the pieces were welded, the guy had to fiddle around with the beads on some of them to get the edge flat and square.
And it is a problem if appearance is important. I was welding up gym equipment. And a machine that has different tubing profiles within it looks like it was put together by a back yard welder with recycled metal. It doesn't look professional at all.
Another problem. As the wall thickness gets thicker, the corner gets more rounded. Which means if you want to make part of the machine stronger, you have to use the heavier gauge tube throughout. Otherwise, it looks crappy. Which makes the machine much heavier and more expensive.
And talking to your metal supplier gets all kinds of protests that they have no control over what the manufacturerr sends to them.
We settled on a fix to make the joints look good with the rounded profile. We just stuck a peice of flat stock in the hole. Then weld as usual. The flat stock was thick enough to fill the hole. When the weld was applied, it just melted together with everything else. Not all that elegant, but it looked good and was strong.
That should be 12.7 mm. Twice.
You need to consider the source... If you're in the Eau Claire area (and I have no idea just how far the Menard's epidemic extends,) try Pigeon Creek Hardwoods on Hwy 12- cheaper than Menard's by at least
150%, and a whole lot higher quality. If you're in the Twin Cities, try Youngblood's.Menard's is nothing but trouble.
Aut inveniam viam aut faciam
You have to take the "had" out of your name, you thinker you....
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