ply staining

I need to apply a stain to oak ply. (Quality stuff not borg) I am left with using minwax ( golden oak)as the rest of the table is stained with that product and I want the color to match. To late for gel stain I think. The oak trim and frame was sanded to 150. Will I get blotching in the top if I sand to 150 or should I go finer? The ply is plain cut. Hope someone can help.
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I quit sanding past 220 years ago, and have had the best of luck with adhesion since. I know there are many, many folks that feel you haven't done good work unless you sand to 50,000 grit, but I am not one of them.
That being said, unless it is for latex paint, I ALWAYS sand to 220g.
Since it is plywood veneer, it will be prone to blotchiness (especially if you are using a can of of oil based stain) no matter what you do simply because of the way it was manufactured. Oak also has a tendency to darken easily in some areas around the tubes of the natural grain.
You can easily mitigate this by applying a conditioner before you stain. Follow the directions on the can, or make your own. If you haven't used a conditioner before, you won't believe how easy it will make your job.
Before doing anything though, I would test out my products on a scrap of your project ply that has been sanded to the same grit as your finish project. That way you can tell for sure if it will match.
Robert
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I always to go to 180 grit on Oak plywood.
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I am a professional finisher, and nailshooter is correct. I use Zinsser Universal sander sealer and cut it 3 to 2 parts with Denatured Alcohol. Let dry 30 min lightly sand 220, then wipe with Naptha to remove dust , then stain . good for all types of stains. All bases, oil and water base.

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What kind of finishing/refinishing do you do?
Like me, are you a contractor as well?
Robert
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I do not refinish, only build and finish. I am a finish consultant for several local contractors, and do alot of blending of colors to match existing cabinets and trim. I teach finishing in Indy, I work with transtint, Mixol, and also water based dyes. I do mirror finishes on table tops, and also finish Accoustic guitars and solid body Color surburst. Most of my finishing is done with HVLP guns of various sizes. I have been finishing for about 30 years. But everyone has something to learn from others. Always open to new ideas
KK

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I can probably learn lots from you.
Please speak up on finishing topics! <G>
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ever since my service provider switched addresses, when I post to the newsgroup it never shows on my end. any ideas.
KK

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Ken, the down and dirty solution is here:
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.woodworking/topics?lnk
Just establish an account and off you go. It has good retention, an easy interface (I cannot remember who the got it from) and it is up and running about 98% of the time. It is also easy to use to search a newsgroup or newsgroups.
Don't confuse this with Google Groups. A different animal.
I started using this when my last two ISPs couldn't provide any better access than an orange juice can with a string on it.
Like Barry said, I hope you hang around and jump in some of these finishing threads. Lots of good threads have gone into the archives on finishing techniques, materials, and equipment. They make a great reference book.
Robert
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

This is the google groups interface to USENET. It's still part of google groups.
Chris
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How right you are. A quick look into this reveals that they merged their old deja news purchase into their google groups package in 2006.
I didn't know that. Thanks for the update.
Robert
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Had good results 100% of the time (thus far anyway) using the minwax wood conditioner as directed when using minwax stain. regards, Joe.
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