I need to apply a stain to oak ply. (Quality stuff not borg) I am left with using minwax ( golden oak)as the rest of the table is stained with that product and I want the color to match. To late for gel stain I think. The oak trim and frame was sanded to 150. Will I get blotching in the top if I sand to 150 or should I go finer? The ply is plain cut. Hope someone can help.
I quit sanding past 220 years ago, and have had the best of luck with adhesion since. I know there are many, many folks that feel you haven't done good work unless you sand to 50,000 grit, but I am not one of them.
That being said, unless it is for latex paint, I ALWAYS sand to
220g.Since it is plywood veneer, it will be prone to blotchiness (especially if you are using a can of of oil based stain) no matter what you do simply because of the way it was manufactured. Oak also has a tendency to darken easily in some areas around the tubes of the natural grain.
You can easily mitigate this by applying a conditioner before you stain. Follow the directions on the can, or make your own. If you haven't used a conditioner before, you won't believe how easy it will make your job.
Before doing anything though, I would test out my products on a scrap of your project ply that has been sanded to the same grit as your finish project. That way you can tell for sure if it will match.
Robert
I always to go to 180 grit on Oak plywood.
I am a professional finisher, and nailshooter is correct. I use Zinsser Universal sander sealer and cut it 3 to 2 parts with Denatured Alcohol. Let dry 30 min lightly sand 220, then wipe with Naptha to remove dust , then stain . good for all types of stains. All bases, oil and water base.
What kind of finishing/refinishing do you do?
Like me, are you a contractor as well?
Robert
Had good results 100% of the time (thus far anyway) using the minwax wood conditioner as directed when using minwax stain. regards, Joe.
I do not refinish, only build and finish. I am a finish consultant for several local contractors, and do alot of blending of colors to match existing cabinets and trim. I teach finishing in Indy, I work with transtint, Mixol, and also water based dyes. I do mirror finishes on table tops, and also finish Accoustic guitars and solid body Color surburst. Most of my finishing is done with HVLP guns of various sizes. I have been finishing for about 30 years. But everyone has something to learn from others. Always open to new ideas
KK
I can probably learn lots from you.
Please speak up on finishing topics!
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ever since my service provider switched addresses, when I post to the newsgroup it never shows on my end. any ideas.
KK
Ken, the down and dirty solution is here:
Don't confuse this with Google Groups. A different animal.
I started using this when my last two ISPs couldn't provide any better access than an orange juice can with a string on it.
Like Barry said, I hope you hang around and jump in some of these finishing threads. Lots of good threads have gone into the archives on finishing techniques, materials, and equipment. They make a great reference book.
Robert
This is the google groups interface to USENET. It's still part of google groups.
Chris
How right you are. A quick look into this reveals that they merged their old deja news purchase into their google groups package in 2006.
I didn't know that. Thanks for the update.
Robert
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