Plunge router on a router table (novice question)

OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes. I have a plunge router and a router table. Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what is the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope it is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting and screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring to novice status!

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate power and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power switch in.

Reply to
Giganews
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(now with correct user name - sorry) OK I know this it VERY basic stuff but here goes. I have a plunge router and a router table. Both were fairly cheap but I am on a limited budget, I put the table together yesterday and everything fits. But here is the problem... what is the best way to adjust the bit height?

I have to reach underneath, push the router up (which isnt easy as there appears to be quite a stiff action), flip the lock leaver and then hope it is the correct height because any way of fine adjusting appears to be non existant.

Am I missing something basic, or should I give up and run away shouting and screaming. You will tell from this that I am at the stage of aspiring to novice status!

Oh and another thing the power on the router is a squeeze to activate power and release to stop. What do most people use to keep the power switch in.

Reply to
John Picton

Not the best setup all the way around. Plunge routers really aren't well suited for router table use unless it is the type with a removable body that can be used in router as plunge or fixed. In that case the fixed configuration can usually work well (depending on the router.). One of the things I have fought with router table setups is the router wanting to change depth during use, which screws up your cuts. Plunge machines just add a little more variable where you don't need it.

Does the squeeze trigger have an on-lock button?" If so, just use it in the locked configuration. Otherwise you will have to come up with a way to keep the trigger squeezed (clamp, rubber band, etc.- none of which is very safe).

RonB

Reply to
rnrbrogan

Thanks for your swift reply,

I think you have confirmed my worries and suspicions. Although I am on a limited budget, being a novice I suspect I will be better served if I can save my pennies and get hold of a router of the type you have suggested (I have seen videos of them in use but not yet investigated them). Limited budget or not, if what I have isnt the right tool for the job then I should try to get the right tool. Particularly in the light of what you have said about the switch (no it dosent have a lock on switch).

Thanks again.

John

Reply to
John Picton

I worked with an old Bosh plunge router that hung upside down for about 20 years and it was at best a PIA

However you can do a couple of things to make adjustments easier. 1. Remove the plunge springs that assist you raise the router when it is in its normal position but as you have found out they make it pretty stiff when worked upside down. 2. Mount an inexpensive scissor jack under the router for adjustments.

Reply to
Leon

For a plunge router in a router table typically you remove the spring which makes it easier. When the router is upside-down you're fighting the spring and the weight of the motor. This is easier on some routers than others. You would use the depth stop to adjust the height.

Never had a router with a momentary switch. I would get an auxiliary switch like this:

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find a way to keep the switch on the router pressed in all the time.

-Kevin

Reply to
LEGEND65

Thanks for the reply - I am going to try the spring removal - The table that I got does have an auxilary switch.

The router was cheap enough that I might find a way to permantly activate the switch and just use the auxilary. Thanks again.

John

Reply to
John Picton

Thanks for the suggestion - I am going to try the spring removal. Same with the scissor jack (Have to fix the table down for this but like the idea)

Cheers

John

Reply to
John Picton

What router do you have?

Reply to
-MIKE-

It is a "Performance Power NLH1020R" link to some basic info -

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is an own brand for a chain here in the UK called B&Q

It only cost me 20UKP (henc why I said it was cheap enough to warrent some adaptations)

Cheers

John

Reply to
John Picton

I saw a slightly-used Bosch fixed-base router on Craigslist last week for $75, I was tempted to buy it and just leave it in my table because the one I already have works great there and is easy to adjust. I suspect that a router not designed for adjustment while mounted in a table is always going to be a pain to set depth on accurately.

Reply to
DGDevin

The more I read the other replies the more I think you migh tbe right - as I said on another reply I am on a limited budget but perhaps I would be better served saving my pennies and getting a fixed base router.

Thanks for the reply.

Cheers

John

Reply to
John Picton

Just make sure it can be adjusted easily when mounted in a table. The Bosch

1617 has an adjustment knob (and locking clamp) I find easy to reach under my table or it can be adjusted with a hex-key from above. Their plunge base is really nice too, if you can find the kit with both bases used that is a great way to go. The only thing about the Bosch I don't care for is you have to pull it out of the table to change bits so I'm looking for an double right-angled wrench to make it possible to change bits from above as I can't justify the cost of a lift at the moment.
Reply to
DGDevin

"John Picton" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

I've got one of these:

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've never needed to use it in a table (there's large area of cross over between mobile routers and their table-mounted counterparts), but it has a T-handle to allow for adjustments from above.

Mine's handled everything I've wanted to throw at it, including installing collars on the fixed base for pattern routing. Around here, we have a saying: "You only cry once when you purchase a good tool."

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

If you are considering that route consider the Triton. It operates like a fixed base and a plunge router without ever champing out bases. You can change bits from above the table.

This one is relatively inexpensive, has as much power as you will ever need in a router and has dropped in price over $100 over the last several years, DAMHIKT.

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Reply to
Leon

Unlike many who will respond, I like a plunge router in a table. But mine has a knob so I don't have to push it up. Makes fine adjustments a lot easier. Yours may have that as an option. If not, it's not a good fit for a table.

Reply to
Larry Blanchard

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This is an own brand for a chain here in the UK called B&Q

I have difficulty imagining a router being useful without a fine depth adjustment. It's hard to say without more information, but the knob at the top left in the photo could be that. It could also be a motor speed adjustment. You would know better than I...

I used a Bosch 1613 plunge router in the table for many years, but the wife never got the knack for adjusting it, so I replaced it. I didn't find it difficult to raise or lower at all. Squatting in front of it so I could see the bit, I held the lock handle with the right hand, cupped the bottom (top) of the router with my left hand, and braced the elbow on my bent knee. Flexing the calf raises the router easily without any strain. When it looked close, I just locked it and twiddled the fine adjustment knob until it was exactly right.

Reply to
MikeWhy

I shove the router up to an approximate position, run the depth stop up till it touches, note how far it has to adjust, drop the router, move the stop and push it back up. No big deal.

My router has a button on the trigger to lock it into place.

Reply to
Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe

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This is an own brand for a chain here in the UK called B&Q

Picture looks like it has an adjustable stop for the plunge. Use it. Problem solved.

Reply to
Capt. Geoffrey Thorpe

able to change bits with the router still in the table would be useful I must say.

Reply to
DGDevin

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