On Friday, January 3, 2014 5:04:53 PM UTC-6, audiowood wrote:
n hvlp spray rig under 600.00? or is this impossible?
To expand on Mike's good advice, if you have a good compressor, for a proje
ct that small you might try one of HF's CAS low volume spray guns. I use t
hem on a fairly regular basis and they have proved to spray as well as just
about any gun out there.
If you are spraying clear finishes such as lacquer, poly or shellac make su
re you get a gun with a tip no larger than 1.2mm. Even though the poly wil
l seem thicker in the cup, don't thin it unless you need to as most of toda
y's polys are made to spray as well as brush or pad.
Another thought is to pad the poly on. Since you are probably not worrying
about abrasion and water resistance on speakers, a pad finish would give yo
u a nice subtle effect with satin poly.
If you are applying lacquer, spray it. It takes a good hand to apply lacqu
er with a brush or pad but it is pretty forgiving to spray and fairly easy
Remember... always practice on your scraps!
One part systems can be sprayed; however, two part systems
that utilize catalyzed resin require special masks.
Failure to use the proper masks will result in a slow and painful
death as the catalyzed resin fumes you breath in harden in your lungs.
And some will kill your liver. A respirator is a must. I have a pump
system with air hose , carbon filter that you put in another room, the
mask is like a scott mask that firefighters use.
But for those systems I would now use a full suit... I didn't know how
much the body would ingest from the skin, but it's more significant than
I knew back then.
Single use suits with feet, full head cover, gloves, and the Scott
with air tank like the fire departments use, is the only way to be
when you are catalyzed LP (Linear Polyurethane) coatings.
You also need a Devilbiss JG gun with a remote pressure pot for best
There is a reason boat yards charge upwards of $200/ft of length when
they shoot an LP job on a boat.
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