Plans Help

Ok, this is actually a woodworking request for help.
I am building a Shaker Hall Table. Plans are from Woodsmith Issue 61, for those who want to follow along.
The plan calls for the front and back aprons to have a groove along the length of the apron. This groove will hold the cross pieces that will support the top and the drawers.
Here's the problem:
The plans state to cut the groove to 9/16" in the aprons to allow for a 1/2 tenon of the cross pieces and a 1/16 for glue. Not a problem. Then it states that you should cut a 1/4 tenon in the aprons to join it to the legs. This tenon has to be centered on the apron.
The aprons are 3/4" thick. If I cut a groove 9/16" in the apron, that will reduce the thickness to 11/16" at that point. There is no way I can center a 1/4" tenon without reducing the thickness of the tenon at the point where it meets the long groove.
My thought is that the 1/2" tenon of the cross piece should be reduced 1/16" to allow for the glue. I can't see that it would affect the structural strength of the base. There are two side aprons that should be sufficient for that. The cross tenons are there to merely to attach the top and support the drawers.
What's the take here? Do I just
1) Ignore the "requirement" to make the 1/2" apron groove 9/16"? 2) Shorten the cross tenon? 3) Reduce the apron tenon? - I'd cut the tenon first, then do the long groove.
MJ
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On 6/13/2011 7:24 PM, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

is. ;~)
Dont worry about cutting that 9/16" groove, let it go through the tennon. The end tennon is going to be large enough that the small amount that you remove should not be a problem.
That said I think if you made that apron grove 1/4" deep, not 9/16" deep you would still be in good shape.
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<snip>

-------------------------------- 1/16 gap for glue?
Not in my boat yard.
Lew
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On Mon, 13 Jun 2011 19:12:05 -0700, Lew Hodgett wrote:

Amen to that! Did the magazine really say that? I don't have access to a copy but find it hard to believe. If true, Woodsmith needs to hire a woodworker as proofreader :-).
The only "gap" I've ever left for glue is to cut a mortise a little deeper than the length of the tenon so excess glue can puddle at the bottom.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw

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Gap is my "language". The recommend a 1/16" extra on the long groove to allow for the gap. The tenon is 1/2".
MJ
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On 6/14/2011 11:04 AM, Larry Blanchard wrote:

Issue 61 IIRC 1989. too late for the proof er.
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On Tue, 14 Jun 2011 16:04:43 +0000 (UTC), Larry Blanchard

I want loose/slip-fit, but without slop in any direction. I don't hammer tenons into mortises and feel it should not be done. The moist glue swells the wood to take up any looseness.

I finished reading _The Home Machinist's Handbook_ last night and he used "course" regarding threads in TWO TABLES, and "augar" in one place. I wanted to scream. Are there no editors left in the world?

Yeah, and I don't mind if I chamfer the ends of the tenons a skosh, either.
-- To know the road ahead, ask those coming back. -- Chinese Proverb
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I built that table several years ago, but I don't remember the specifics. If I can find the plans I'll refresh my memory and let you know what I did.

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To all,
I goofed up here. Happens when I was working off my memory without looking at the plan.
The groove along the front apron is 5/16", not 9/16". This still takes away 1/16 from the tenon at the end at the point the groove cuts across the space.
The process they want to follow is the cut the groove first. Then the tenon.
Hope that clears up some of the confusion. The point remains, though on these plans. The tenon is a bit "skinny" where the groove intersects it on the apron.
MJ
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Well after confusing 9/16 for 5/16, I got an official answer from WoodSmith:
-- On page 16 of issue 61, Figure 4a shows a groove that's 1/2" wide and 5/16" deep.
After cutting that groove on the top and bottom edge of the front and back apron, you are instructed to cut a tenon on each end (Figures 5,6, and 7).
It's true, the groove will leave a shallow notch the inside face of the tenon. However, this will not alter the strength of the tenon and its glue joint.
--
Issue resolved. Thanks everyone for helping out and
at least looking at the request for assistance.
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