Speaking of that, if you cut a rabbit on the jointer, won't the blood get all over the surface? I'd rather cook it whole if that's the case.
Speaking of that, if you cut a rabbit on the jointer, won't the blood get all over the surface? I'd rather cook it whole if that's the case.
How is kick back covered in ANY operation on a jointer? There are no hardware provisions to control kick back on any jointer I've ever seen.
The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal piece of wood from flying backwards.
Try this:
Same as in normal operation -- your contention the blade guard is an effective anti-kickback device is wishful thinking at best...
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Next time you edge joint a board...try to pull it back towards you...assuming you have a porkchop style guard.
Not very unless you are making a really wide rabbit.
I've never had kick back from my jointer? Not sure how the guard would do anything to prevent kickback?
Most rabbits are not that wide, so not much of the blade is ever exposed. The knives are not going to do much other than knock off a finger tip or two. Much more dangerous jobs going on in a shop than using a jointer. As for using it to make rabbits, I did it a few times just to do it, but I like leaving my jointer set to 1/32 so 2 passes make a 1/16th. I don't like changing it and there are better ways to make a rabbit most of the time. Also, jointer fences are not made for fine tuned adjustments. The last reason not to use a jointer for a rabbit is danger.
As for removing the guard, I vaguely recall David Marks doing that on his giant jointer on TV. I won't swear to it, but I think he used it facing wide boards w/o the guard which I thought was a little wild, but David made it look safe. This jointer was really old looking, and about 20 or 24 inches... really a huge one. Anyone recall him using it without a guard? Maybe even w/o a fence? I know he would run boards over it at an angle, but the thing was so wide you could do that with the fence on, but not sure anymore how he did it.
Interestingly, Scott Phillips makes everything look dangerous. He has table saw guards, 20 different types of push sticks, splitters, and every time I see him use his table saw I figure he has a 50/50 chance of whacking off a hand or at least a finger. He just looks out of place and uncomfortable in a shop. How he got on TV has been a mystery to me... He's the only one left in my area... Norm's repeats, David is gone, the Woodsmith shop is gone... Next I guess will have some babe with a chop saw and a nail gun building deck furniture while the old man brings her ice tea...
How is it covered on a router? By only exposing a little bit of the bit at a time? Isn't that hat those anti-kickback designs do?
Those pork chops (thanks to whoever gave me that) don't do anything.
Are you sure about that? (not trying to be argumentative, here)
I have a decent Delta 6" and I can slide a piece of wood forwards and back against that smooth paint job, without much effort at all.
To my knowledge the spring only exerts the minimal amount of force required to keep the chop over the blades and not impede the progress of the wood.
If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.
Not buying it, sorry. :-)
All the cutter guards I've seen have a very smoothly painted surface and are very easy to move.
Is this adjustment and/or purpose described in any jointer manual you know?
Again, I'm not busting your balls. Maybe the higher end planers have the feature and I just haven't seen it.
If kickback is an issue with your planer you're doing something wrong IMO.
Robatoy wrote: ...
It'll just slide--the edges are smooth and the spring isn't strong enough. They're a knives guard and that's it.
If you can find any manufacturer in any user manual or safety documentation make any representation otherwise, I'll color meself more than surprised.
I just did a global search on the words guard and kickback in the Delta manual I posted a link to earlier and there's a lot of references to using push sticks and so on to guard against kickback but nary a word that indicates the cutterhead guard has any role other than its function by name.
Again, any semblance to being effective in an actual kickback event (which I've never experienced in 40+ years on a jointer) is a fignewton of your imagination... :)
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One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the guard. (Without cutter running... for safety) Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should. It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.
I'll spare you a smart-ass reply but try this:
One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the guard. (Without cutter running... for safety) Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should. It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.
The design of the porkchop shape is to allow the guard to cover the portion of the blades not being used when jointing varying width boards. Its design has nothing to do with preventing kickback.
If you've tried running a board backwards through your jointer as you suggest you'll see the guard offer absolutely no resistance. I've tried it before I first suggested to you.
Maybe if the curved part of the guard had teeth cut into it like a table saw anti-kickback pawl, but don't count on the typical jointer guard to keep a board from moving. Just try letting go of a short board during a deep cut and see what happens!
And scratch a good board?
Did it, the first time I replied, and it doesn't hold a bit.
With all do respect (because from your posts you obviously know your stuff) I think the porkchop is the shape it is so that it will move out of the way, in the same manner and with the same effort, not matter how narrow or wide the board is, that is being pushed into it.
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