Planer question

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Robatoy wrote:

The way it is described in my manual, it's no more dangerous than using a router. Only a small portion of the blade is uncovered, about the same size as a router bit. I don't see any more chance of your hand going into the blade than with a router table.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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Robatoy wrote: ...

Where do you get the dangerous bit from?
Look at the instruction manual picture at
<http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Delta/EnA06586.pdf
p21, Fig. 43. and tell me what you see as a problem.
--


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I see that the cutter is covered when the fence is all the way over to the edge. How is kick-back covered?
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Robatoy wrote:

How is kick back covered in ANY operation on a jointer? There are no hardware provisions to control kick back on any jointer I've ever seen.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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The porkchop shaped guard works as a cam and will stop a normal piece of wood from flying backwards.
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Robatoy wrote:

Try this:
1. Set your infeed table equal to the outfeed table. 2. With the jointer turned off run a board through the jointer in the normal direction. 3. With the jointer turned off run the same board through the jointer in the direction opposite normal. 4. Note the zero difference in resistance between steps 2 & 3.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Robatoy wrote:

Are you sure about that? (not trying to be argumentative, here)
I have a decent Delta 6" and I can slide a piece of wood forwards and back against that smooth paint job, without much effort at all.
To my knowledge the spring only exerts the minimal amount of force required to keep the chop over the blades and not impede the progress of the wood.
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-MIKE-

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If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.
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Robatoy wrote:

Not buying it, sorry. :-)
All the cutter guards I've seen have a very smoothly painted surface and are very easy to move.
Is this adjustment and/or purpose described in any jointer manual you know?
Again, I'm not busting your balls. Maybe the higher end planers have the feature and I just haven't seen it.
--

-MIKE-

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-MIKE- wrote:

If kickback is an issue with your planer you're doing something wrong IMO.
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One more try. Put a board...like a 2x4 in between the fence and the guard. (Without cutter running... for safety) Go to the front of the outfeed table and push back towards the infeed table. The guard should bind the work piece against the fence. Should. It is the whole point of the porkchop shape.
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Robatoy wrote:

The design of the porkchop shape is to allow the guard to cover the portion of the blades not being used when jointing varying width boards. Its design has nothing to do with preventing kickback.
If you've tried running a board backwards through your jointer as you suggest you'll see the guard offer absolutely no resistance. I've tried it before I first suggested to you.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
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Nova wrote:

I think there are some limited circumstances where Rob's assertion will be true (I just tried it to test my theory). If you're edge jointing a relatively thin (say 4/4) board with the fence all the way retracted, the guard will offer some amount of kickback protection, mainly because the distance between the pivot point and the fence is maximized and there is leverage present. As soon as the guard pivots further away from the fence that leverage is lost.
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wrote:

I did mention ...and a cut and paste: ============================
48. Robatoy View profile More options Sep 13, 2:19 pm
- Show quoted text - Next time you edge joint a board...try to pull it back towards you...assuming you have a porkchop style guard. ============================
If the board is 5" on a 6" jointer, that cam action would indeed need teeth.
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Robatoy wrote:

Did it, the first time I replied, and it doesn't hold a bit.
With all do respect (because from your posts you obviously know your stuff) I think the porkchop is the shape it is so that it will move out of the way, in the same manner and with the same effort, not matter how narrow or wide the board is, that is being pushed into it.
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-MIKE-

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I appreciate your semi vote of confidence..LOL I did spend some time looking at a lot of images of cutter guards and it is clear that many won't do a thing to stop kick back. The european guards will not do a thing to stop kick-back. Like Mini Max, for instance.Conversely, many will, and many will at varying thicknesses (widths?) Some of the Powermatic ones look like they'd do a pretty good job at most of their spec'd widths. The General ones, like mine, are more 'iffy' at wider widths.
In summation: Mine works like a cam and stops my being able to pull back a board, certainly up to 2" thick. Yours might not. Steve Turner's does, somewhat, up to a point. So... what izzit? Smooth or Crunchy?
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Robatoy wrote:

Chocolate. :-)
--

-MIKE-

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<<...snipped...>>

Maybe if the curved part of the guard had teeth cut into it like a table saw anti-kickback pawl, but don't count on the typical jointer guard to keep a board from moving. Just try letting go of a short board during a deep cut and see what happens!
--
Often wrong, never in doubt.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
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On Sep 13, 8:11pm, snipped-for-privacy@sdf.lNoOnSePsAtMar.org (Larry W) wrote:

And scratch a good board?
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:> : If set up properly, the cam action will impede the movement backwards.
If you set the cam spring really tight, it'll bang so hard into the fence you'll knock it out of square.
And you still won't prevent kickback. You'd need something to grip or bite into the board if it started to move backwards.
    -- Andy Barss
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