Wow. Go away for a while and I missed all the fun.
I didn't miss it. I understood you to say you'd use all 3 PT's in succession.
Didn't miss this either and you're right, I'm not overly concerned with this in
case of a table leg.
You seen to be missing the fact that most tools have many uses and capabilities.
Admittedly each may be best for a particular use but it is not the sole tool that
will do the job.
No. The OP stated that the leg was already "1) planed and shaped properly".
The jointer can do the job just fine and, if properly set up, won't leave sniped
ends like his benchtop planer will. Furthermore, only the inside edges of a
leg need to be square - one could trim the outside edges with an axe and it isn't
going to make any difference in the leg being square to the aprons or floor.
I stand by my original post - a jointer will do his job and any error isn't
be noticed by eye.
Did you change your mind re the jointer or did you just leave it it out now to be
I know you appear to be narrow minded, defensive, and arrogant.
LOL ... re-reading this thread I'm starting to realize that there are damn
few left around here who have either used/own a jointer, or have ever
actually made a table.
When legs attach to table aprons, it doesn't take much experience to know
that, if not square/parallel, at least consistent geometry at the point of
the joinery is pretty damn important if the legs are going to stand
... and they ain't NO way in hell you can guarantee consistent geometry, of
any part, or from part to part, after a SINGLE pass over jointer blades!
No fence on your jointer? <g>
Seriously, I agree that the thickness planer is the right tool for the
job. I would remove bulk with a saw if it were any more than 3/16ths
But the reaction against the jointer (which is NOT the best tool for
the job) may be overstated. If I didn't have a planer, I would scribe
the desired thickness, run it twice over the jointer with the table
set to get a cut of a little less than 3/32. Then observe how close to
the scribe line I was getting at all points, set the jointer for
superfine cut, and sneak up on the scribe line. If one part of the cut
neared the scribe line before another, I'd know that my technique or
jointer was off, and would switch to a hand plane for the last few
Or cut it the right size to begin with, but where's the fun in that?
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
I recall in shop class Mr. Hardy would put you in line for a couple of licks
if he caught any one using the jointer for any purpose other than to
straighten an edge or flatten a surface. You were going to do it correctly
or not at all. It seems like yesterday, 1968, when he looked every in the
eye after making that threat. I remember something about not building on
top of mistakes and working from a good foundation, that part was over my
head at the time but the threat of the licks make the instructions much more
A good question, but not the same issue. The OP's was a question on the
"thickness" of the piece, not on the tapering of a leg.
Tapering a leg is usually done below the area where the apron joins the leg,
thus the area of the joinery is unaffected by using the jointer to do the
taper, not to mention that a taper usually doesn't require the same
precision that joinery does.
Same here, as long as it's a sled-style jig. Mine isn't on the web
right now, but here is a similar version:
<http://cdn2.libsyn.com/mattswoodshop/Table_Saw_Taper_Sled_1.pdf?nvb 080816111744&nva 080817111744&tb6c978ef8452973e109>
Some taper jigs (and many other jigs! don't get me going...) are
SOOOOOO over complicated, so I totally understand why many skip this method.
A clamping sled jig is very comfortable to use, simple and fast to make,
easily adjustable, totally repeatable, and suitable for any angle or
number of faces. Another great reason to keep runner stock at the ready.
Hinge-style jigs are evil!
What I was taught for squaring leg stock, after rough cutting, was to
flatten first face, then joint an adjacent second face square and true and
finally plane the other surfaces parallel and square.. If you have a decent
tablesaw that is decently tuned and has a sharp blade, there's no reason
really that you can't substitute the table saw for the planer cuts. In fact
on some woods with difficult grain, I think you sometimes can actually avoid
tearout and get a smoother surface using a table saw over the planer.
Not too worry ... only the small minded would quibble over a slip of the
tongue when it's that obvious that you knew what you were about. Yours was
probably the most informative post in the thread thus far.
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