ping unisaw100

howdy. i posted about an old unisaw a few weeks ago and since then have made progress but ive come upon a snaffu. after replaceing the armature bearings it seems that the blade does not retract fully below the table insert. at 90 degrees the blade is only about an 1/8" below the top and at a 45 degree bavel it protrudes above the top by approx. an 1/8" is this normal for and old uni or have i blundered? i made an 0 clearance insert and found that i have to lower it into a spinning blade to get the slot cut. any sugestions? skeez
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snipped-for-privacy@home.com wrote:

I bought one of these zero-clearance inserts. http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?itemnumber=H0627
It gets around this problem by having a deep, wide slot for the blade on the bottom. The blade only has to poke through about 1/4" to 1/8".
Another solution I read somewhere is to use one 8" dado blade.
-- Mark
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On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 16:57:55 GMT, " snipped-for-privacy@home.com"

http://www.google.ca/groups?hl=en&lr=&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&frame=right&th *ef24b14c18da2d&seekm]t0bv4qjrcrblkm4o29kg5o6url0ladci%404ax.com#link7
Where Wood Butcher suggests taping the new zero clearance insert with double sided tape on top of the old insert, and them moving the saw up.
Luigi Replace "no" with "yk" twice in reply address for real email address
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skeezics wrote:

Did the blade ever fall below the table?

I have heard people have this trouble and in fact the blade on my saw does sit proud of the table when fully retracted. I should mention that whenever I lower the blade all the way I back it up a eighth of a turn so it doesn't sit "locked" in the fully retracted position.

Use an 8" or 9" blade to start the insert. Rout the back of the insert.
UA100
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On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 16:57:55 GMT, " snipped-for-privacy@home.com"
thanx all. i realy didnt see any way to change the setting but i wasnt sure. i just assumed the blade would lower further than that. BTW this thing is a real jewel compared the the old benchtop POS i been using. SWMBO says i may get a beismier fence for christmas. hmmmmmmm.... sounds like i may have somthing to gloat about if she dont back out! skeez
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Except for the 45 deg. angle part, that's pretty much just like the newer Unisaw's too. You have to start the zero clearance cut with a smaller blade or lower it onto the spinning blade (using the fence for guidance).
The 45 degree part is sorta puzzling. You're saying that when fully retracted and 90 deg, it's slightly below the table surface, but as you tilt it, it rises? Odd.
I haven't looked at the works of my Unisaw for quite a while, but I wonder if it'd be possible to place 1/8" or so spacers between the cabinet and the table to lift the surface away from the top of the blade. (The downside to this is that you'd, in effect, lose that same distance from the maximum cut capabilities.)
--
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
  Click to see the full signature.
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On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 16:12:09 -0700, Fly-by-Night CC

the top at 45 degres fully lowered. i didnt think much of the 1/8" low at 90 but when i set it up to rip a bevel i was puzzled. its right tilt BTW. that may matter. or not.

that would work i beleive but as you say you would lose maximum cutter height. skeez
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Just to get the hole started, you could fit a smaller blade, cut the hole, then reinstall the original blade.
Greg

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Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:

and you would for sure be the man to know about HOLES
*G*
Traves
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"Traves W. Coppock" <newsgroups-AT-farmvalleywoodworks-DOT-com> wrote in message

y'know Traves, there was a thread about raising benches for taller WW'ers, ie, how to get them to a workable level. I had to restrain myself from suggesting he dig a trench around each machine...
Greg
PS Hi to Dawn!
PSS Is that DELTA Dawn? Nice song btw.
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Crawled out of the shop and said. . .:

ROFL
Hi to Greg from Dawn

That's her favorite song from when she was younger! lol

Traves, AND Dawn
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