Ping Casper

Saw your pics - http://www.delorie.com/wood/abpw/ Your doors look great. Good job.
When weather permits, I'd recommend: 1) Treat the siding with Jomax and bleach, as per Jomax directions. A gal lon of Jomax should be enough to clean your whole house, as well, if need b e. If you're up to the task, scrub the siding, also.
1.a.) After the cleaning is done, you might spray all the siding with strai ght bleach. If there is any deep mold or mildew on the siding, you might w ant to treat it with concentrated bleach, without rising it off. Do the s praying on a good dry day, so that the bleach better penetrates into the cr evices. Any mold or mildew (spores) may be deeper, than just on the wood's surface.
2) Seems you may have to trim the bottoms, up, at least 10". Use a sharp t ool or screw driver to stab the siding, to see where it is weak, rotted, de cayed, etc. Don't be afraid to stab hard. Draw your trim line above the d amage.
3) Attach a board below the trim/cut line, so that your circular saw rests on the board, blade even with the cut line and beveled about 30 degrees.
4) Prime the cut, well, when you prime the rest of the siding. Once primed , mark the siding (where you made the cut) as to where your wall's studs ar e (re: #6 below).
5) For your application, wooden drip edges, as I have, may not be the best application. For a different application, I bought some 10' angled flashin g, 4" on each leg, from Lowes.... like this http://www.lowes.com/pd_366940- 18591-A3X4X7_4294736325__ , but 10' lengths. I can't find the 10' stuff, on Lowes link. This sort of drip edge may be better for your shed and bet ter for installing, than wooden drip edging. Once installed, bend it to an gle downward.
5.a.) Whether you make your own drip edge or use metal flashing, caulk its installation, along the upper siding.
6) Once the drip edge is installed, attach the bottom edge of the upper sid ing to the studs, if need be. That bottom edge might need attaching right near the cut line, if the next higher attachment is too high.
7) Cut and prime for your replacement lower siding. Cut both top and botto m edges at 30 degrees. Prime the back side, also.
8) Put a flashing along the lower edge of the building, before installing t he replacement siding.
The worst part of that job will be cutting the bad siding off. Kneeling an d cutting with a circular saw, that way, is not fun.... at least for us old folks.
Sonny
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Sonny ... Thanks, this is great. I'm pretty sure I can see this exactly in my head but I may hit you up again in spring if I have any questions or oddities pop up. I think this is going to virtually completely stop future rot, at least in my lifetime.
Ditto on the cutting part. My knees aren't great and getting worse each year. I will probably have the brother-in-law do the cutting, especially as he really likes playing with the power tools.
Thanks again for the information! `Casper
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Sonny...
Next weekend I will be finally working on the last of the shed repairs. I plan to do it as you suggested with metal or plastic flashing and caulk.
In reading down from 5a, did you flash both the upper and lower siding? Or did you just caulk the new seam?
I will be putting flashing along the bottom and sealing with caulk to keep the water and splash-up out of the wood.
I can't seem to locate the pictures of your shed that you posted. If you still have them, would you mind doing a repost?
Hopefully this will be done in a couple weeks before the real hot weather starts. I'll throw up some pics of the project when I can.
Once the shed is done, I have to start on our mini-deck/side stairs. I spent quite a bit of cash on Behr paint a couple years ago on it and it's all chipping and flaking off. I did some research and found a lote of people are having the same problem. Only a few who have complained received any compensation. No more Behr here!
Again, thanks for all your input. `Casper

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On Thursday, May 7, 2015 at 10:29:41 PM UTC-5, Casper wrote:

I flashed all the horizontal seams and caulked the siding's edge against the flashing, and, where applicable, caulked above and below the drip edge on the upper drip edge installations. On the link below, scroll right for 2 more pics. https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4733388243/in/photostream/
I'm away from home at the moment. I'll take detailed pics, in a few hours, and post them.
Sonny
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On Friday, May 8, 2015 at 7:13:44 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

Last Friday, I forgot to take pics, then went to the farm for the weekend, so just now posting those promised pics.
First off, before installing the siding panels (T1-11), I primed and painte d one coat of paint. Once installed, I apply a second coat of paint to the exterior.
For my shop: Reference to the garage/gable end, on a slab. The rest of t he shop is on pillars - https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/47333882 43/in/dateposted-public/ .
From bottom to top: There is a lower skirting (about 25" high), a drip edge , a full sheet of T1-11, a drip edge, then (above that) the upper siding. There is felt against the studs; Against the wall, along the slab, there is 8" or 12" flashing (I don't recall what width), installed exterior of th e felt/studs and runs down the slab's side/edge at least an inch, maybe 2". If there is any moisture wicking up the back of the siding, the flashing keeps the moisture away from the studs.
All edges of the siding are bevel cut. The skirt's bottom edge is cut at 45 degrees and the drip edge cuts are 30 degrees. The cut edges and up the back side (of the siding) are primed and painted before installing. Caulk ing was applied to the appropriate edges and drip edge before installing an d were re-caulked once installed.
As per pics, scroll left (from the starting pic) for the successive referen ced pics. Pic 1 shows the flashing behind the lowest edge of the (skirt) siding. Th e bottom edge of the corner facing is beveled, also.... *shows some lawn mo wer & weed eater "damage", also. It's time to repaint! Pic 2 shows the lowest drip edge (above the skirt). Pic 3 shows the upper drip edge. Pic 4 shows a bevel cut on a left-over piece of siding. https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/17611896796/in/dateposted-public /
If you need any more pics, etc., just ask.
Sonny
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Addendum: I screwed all the siding to the studs, thinking it would be easi er to remove any damaged parts/pieces, when need be. Some years ago, I in stalled T1-11 to my old garage and have recently had some repairs. The in stalled screws (screwed applications) were a pain to remove, for those repa irs. I wish I had experienced these recent repairs before doing the shop garage. I won't use screws to install any more T1-11 siding.
I would recommend using galvanized (casing?) nails to install your siding. I think (rather, I know!!!) the nailed application would be much easier t o remove, than the screwed-in application.
Sonny
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On Thursday, May 14, 2015 at 9:43:52 AM UTC-5, Sonny wrote:

Check that: All top and bottom edges are bevel cut. The side edges are NOT bevel cut.
Sonny
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Thanks very much for all this good info. Its going to help a lot.
Plan was to do this repair this coming weekend but I've had to postpone it. Weather guys say it is going to thunderstorm all weekend and into Monday here.
Also I am sick as a dog and have barely slept most of this week. I've never had my ribs and head hurt so much from coughing. Now I have a fever and it's gone into my sinues so it's time to see a doctor.
We have company coming Memorial weekend and our 20th anniversary and other half's birthday is the following weekend, so that books me thru the month. With any luck, temp won't rise too much and I can get this done the beginning of June.
I'll be sure to let you know how it goes, pics too.
Now excuse me while I go shoot myself to end this sinus misery. `Casper
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