Ping Bill, in Indiana; Anyone near Waverly, Ohio?

[Leon]

I have had that kind under my scrap lumber bin, the rubber wheels broke.

[Larry Jaques]

I remember learning that lesson. BPs are great for wood, aren't they? No splintering at the leading edges now, even in softwood! Forstners are another treat.

-- Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling. -- Margaret Lee Runbeck

[Larry Jaques]

>Maybe, I have had that kind under my scrap lumber bin, the rubber wheels >broke.

I've had these

for years without problems, but usually on lighter-weight stuff, under #100 load on each wheel.

-- Happiness is not a station you arrive at, but a manner of traveling. -- Margaret Lee Runbeck

[Leon]

>>> Maybe, I have had that kind under my scrap lumber bin, the rubber wheels >> broke.

I had less than 50lbs on each wheel. Axle pushed right through the wheel center and broke it.

I find the harder plastic wheels hold up much better.

[Sonny]

Having worked in a hospital setting, I became aware of rolling equipment eventually becoming damaged. One day, I checked with the maintenace department to see if there were any casters available for salvaging, to put on a lathe cabinet I made. Sho-nuff, half a dozen sets of top quality casters.... soft & hard rubber tired, plastic tires, bare metal. If convenient, call your local hospital maintenace department to see what might be available. Besdies the lathe cabinet, I've used some of those salvaged casters for 2 carts I made for moving upholstered furniture, steel ones for my anvil base and 2 for the RAS.

In the salvage mix was 2 patient gurneys. The aluminum framing was perfect for refabbing into furniture carts, w/ soft roll wheels (no damage rolling on customer's hardwood floors) that turn on a dime. Those gurneys/casters are required to support very large patients!

Sonny

[Bill]

Since we're talking about this. I noticed all of my exit holes came out without splintering, but I had some splintering where where the (1/2") bit entered. I was using a variable-speed hand drill. I was wondering whether to blame this on the drill not being up-to-speed before contact? Is this the likely culprit?

BTW, same bit on my new DP, speed set to 1500 RPM as per DP guidelines. No splintering.

Bill

[Bill]

Hmmm.. another variable. In the case where I got splintering I had already pre-drilled with 3/16" bit. Is that, more likely, the source of the splintering.

Bill

[Sonny]

Brad point bit or metal cutting bit?

.... 3) Dull/nicked drill bit, 4) soft or weak wood, 5) ....,

6) .....

Sonny

[Bill]

I was using 1/2" Brad point bit. I'm thinking that it was the 3/16" pre-drilling,or my starting at slow speed. The bits came out cleaner than they went in. Those 4 holes were for my 1/2" bolts for the metal DP base. Naturally they didn't quite line up well enough with the 1/2" holes in the base so I ended up re-drilling them with a 5/8" bit. One important lesson in the project was "don't make yer tolerances too tight, or you'll spend a lot of time working around them!"! ;)

Bill

[Larry Jaques]

Slow RPM usually _isn't_ a problem when drilling wood.

With a brad point, yes, likely the culprit. The guide tit (we'll call him Brad for good measure) didn't have anything to grab onto, so when the first flute hit (if it weren't exactly vertical) it tried to drill an oblong or oversized hole. Try to avoid pilot holes in wood unless you're using a twist drill in the center of a hole saw and the pilot is the same or smaller size than the pilot bit in the saw.

-- The more passions and desires one has, the more ways one has of being happy. -- Charlotte-Catherine

[Bill]

Thanks, that makes sense.

Okay... My technique hasn't caught up with the technology (never used BP bits before...). I like the BP bits just fine now though. It's great to be able to bore holes right where you want two!

Bill

[Bill]

Thanks again. There is a lot of very good information in your post!

Bill

S>

[Bill]

Auction ends in 90 minutes..the Unisaw has been on my mind.

Issue is transportation (220 miles each way): Costs:

About $300 to buy a trailer hitch w/installation $140 for a 5'by9' trailer with a ramp (U-Haul, 1-way rental) $150 to load (estimate was provided) $100+ for gas

which comes to $690 not including any costs to unload.

This is discouraging from placing the next bid for the saw-- $850 which is essentially $1000 including buyers fee and sales tax.

It may be better to wait for one a little closer to home, or even buy something new--but I learned A GREAT DEAL mulling over this!!! Thank you folks! You still have time to talk me out of/into it! LOL :)

Bill

[chaniarts]

do you know anyone with a pickup truck that would help you out? you can rent a box truck for

[Bill]

[chaniarts]

the pickup may already have a hitch, saving you the $300, although if you installed it on your vehicle, then your wife could buy that piano that she's been wanting.

[Bill]

Yes, it does. But I am not willing to drive another man's truck 500 miles. None of the car rental companies are willing to rent a vehicle I could use for towing. This Unisaw was going to cost north of $2000 after expenses, plus time and effort, and with possible risk during transport, and no warranty. For $2750 Amazon will deliver a new one to your door. At least, that was the deal until about 3 weeks ago. Current

3rd party seller wants $3299.

I really did learn alot through this process that will ready me the next time around. It was actually "over-stimulating". Like I said, next time I will be ALOT more prepared.

Thanks, Bill

although if you

[Leon]

Bill I rented a 16' lift gate truck a few months ago and it cost me about $450 for 4 days.

[FrozenNorth]

Note he said he needed the hitch first.

[Lew Hodgett]

RE: Subject

Bill, the "window shopper" strikes again.

Lew