I use either chalk or pencil. If you go with a pencil make sure you only
use a 2B to 6B - stay away from the Ticonderogas or the other #2 SAT
versions - the higher # you go in the B range the softer the "lead" and
it won't leave an impression in the surface. (Needless to say, stay away
from the HB and H series.)
Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
i dont know exactly how much id'ing you need but you can wrap each piece up
in paper and label it, or tie a string around it with a tag on that
depending on how big the piece is...
you can put paper down on some shelves, label the paper and put the pieces
on the paper you labeled. doesnt do any good if you mix them up somehow
whenever i take something with lots of small parts apart, i get coffee
filters and put the pieces in them and label the filter. keeps em well
labeled and they wont roll away.
I had a lot of trouble sanding pencil marks off as well...until I came
across my old eraser! Much easier. I use a drafting lead holder &
number 3 or 4 lead.
I second the drafting tape suggestion as well, it's low tack enough
not to tear paper.
On Tue 29 Jun 2004 08:35:28a, email@example.com (Gary DeWitt) wrote in
Yeah, I started doing that too. I just use the eraser on the end of the
pencil. For some reason the pencils disappear before the eraser wears down
so that's not been a problem. I got the idea of erasing the pencil marks
instead of sanding them out from, um... [cough] Bruce Johnson. But he's
right, sanding seems to push the lead into the wood before it sands it off.
Erasers are not all the same, and some do leave marks as you say. I
bought a bunch of those larger erasers that fit over the top of the
pencil, having checked them first to make sure they don't stain, and
put one on all my shop pencils. Side benefit of this is the pencils
don't roll off the bench 'cause the new eraser is oval at the base.
For drafting the vinyl erasers are the best, leaving little or no marks on
paper, vellum, and film. I have used them on wood, but the coarser-grained
varieties still retain some graphite deep in the grain.
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
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