Piece marking advice wanted

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Got cha. thanks.

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No, most any liquid will take it out but, in any event, once the piece is assembled it usually needs sanding and that pretty well takes care of things.
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Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
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"Mike G" wrote in message

Agreed ... I almost always use chalk for marking project parts. Biggest problem I have with it is keeping it on, not getting it off.
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www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 5/15/04
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Drafting tape.

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I use either chalk or pencil. If you go with a pencil make sure you only use a 2B to 6B - stay away from the Ticonderogas or the other #2 SAT versions - the higher # you go in the B range the softer the "lead" and it won't leave an impression in the surface. (Needless to say, stay away from the HB and H series.)
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Owen Lowe and his Fly-by-Night Copper Company
Offering a shim for the Porter-Cable 557 type 2 fence design.
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i dont know exactly how much id'ing you need but you can wrap each piece up in paper and label it, or tie a string around it with a tag on that depending on how big the piece is... OR you can put paper down on some shelves, label the paper and put the pieces on the paper you labeled. doesnt do any good if you mix them up somehow though...
whenever i take something with lots of small parts apart, i get coffee filters and put the pieces in them and label the filter. keeps em well labeled and they wont roll away.
randy

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I had a lot of trouble sanding pencil marks off as well...until I came across my old eraser! Much easier. I use a drafting lead holder & number 3 or 4 lead. I second the drafting tape suggestion as well, it's low tack enough not to tear paper.
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On Tue 29 Jun 2004 08:35:28a, snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Gary DeWitt) wrote in

Yeah, I started doing that too. I just use the eraser on the end of the pencil. For some reason the pencils disappear before the eraser wears down so that's not been a problem. I got the idea of erasing the pencil marks instead of sanding them out from, um... [cough] Bruce Johnson. But he's right, sanding seems to push the lead into the wood before it sands it off.
Dan
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I find that with most pencils, the eraser leaves a stain or mark that is worse that the lead markings. Wipe a little thinner on the pencil lead marks and they wipe away.
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Erasers are not all the same, and some do leave marks as you say. I bought a bunch of those larger erasers that fit over the top of the pencil, having checked them first to make sure they don't stain, and put one on all my shop pencils. Side benefit of this is the pencils don't roll off the bench 'cause the new eraser is oval at the base.
Mutt

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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com (Mutt) wrote in

For drafting the vinyl erasers are the best, leaving little or no marks on paper, vellum, and film. I have used them on wood, but the coarser-grained varieties still retain some graphite deep in the grain.
--
John Snow
"If I knew what I was doing, I wouldn't be here"
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Hitch wrote:

Was that the 14-day blue tape or the 60-day blue tape "for delicate surfaces"?
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--John
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
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I use some of my Daughter's sidewalk chalk. Its pink and its shaped like an egg, but it works. Comes off with damp cloth, vacuum, sweaty hand, etc.
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