Pictures of Shop Made Sacrificial Fence Clamps

[-MIKE-]

bucks in parts, plus scraps, and an hour in the shop save you 15 bucks from Rockler.

[Limp Arbor]

Sweet!

[Morris Dovey]

I like it!

[Upscale]

On Wed, 17 Feb 2010 08:17:44 -0600, Morris Dovey

What's even better than a sacrificial clamp is that if you double the installation, it could be the basis for a table saw mounted router fence.

[Morris Dovey]

Hoosierpopi came up with a great alternative clamp idea for stop blocks on a RAS that would absolutely shine for these applications, but I won't steal his thunder...

[GROVER]

I use a simple technique for temporary sistering of a sacrificial fence to my Unifence. I use two Vise Grip clamps, the kind with the enlarged jaw pads. I also use the same clamps to align face frames when using the Kreg jig.

Joe G

[Larry Kraus]

Unfair!!! Don't tease us like that.

( Can't find it - google, ask ,bing....)

[Morris Dovey]

On the other thread (Video of Shop Made Sacrificial Fence Clamps) he posted:

[Larry Kraus]

about videos.

[Upscale]

If it helps you any, they're images, not motion videos specifically.

[RonB]

Exactly what I thought when I saw the pics. I have a router built into my table saw and the router fence is made from Baltic birch ply. I usually clamp it to the table saw fence with a couple of Irwins. I can drill two holes in the router fence and adapt his clamps directly to my fence. Neat, simple idea.

RonB

[Hoosierpopi]

< Neat, simple idea.

Thank you. I would add some of that webbed rubber gripper pad or similar when using the idea as a saw stop on the mitre saw (or a couple of clipped nail heads protruding a bit) as the little clamp can be defeated if you shove a 2 x 4 against it when using it as a RAS Stop.

They have a "next size up" clamp and I am thinking of using it (cutting off the excess bar) to get greater gripping power.

I think this might also work with a couple of those metal spring clamps as long as they open wide enough to grip the fence. Just replace one "leg" witha bit of steel rod and Voila!

[me]

Cool - I was wondering how to do that. I got used to my old delta fence - just screw wood to the fence and be done with it. Thanks,

Limp Arbor wrote in news:16ad01cd-50f0-4f27-aa86- [e-mail]:

[-MIKE-]

There's no reason not to just do that. My Biesemeyer fence has plywood sides. It would be no hassle at all to use the originals as templates to knock out some new ones.

[Artemus]

I'm not sure about it being no hassle on a Biesmeyer. The attaching bolts/screws are buried under the facing material (formica?) and I don't see how to remove the originals w/o at least wounding them. I suspect the originals may also shimmed to make them square to the table. Shimming a sacrificial board would involve some hassle. Art

[-MIKE-]

Shimmed? Why wouldn't they just manufacture the fence to be square in the first place? I suspect that is what they do.

I also think it would be pretty easy to find the attaching screws/bolts with a stud finder and cut nice holes in the laminate to access the screws. I could see having different attaching faces for different tasks. Maybe one with t-track for feather-boards. Maybe one for a router fence.

As for wounding the originals... I never understood the need of some to keep their tools in pristine condition, for that sake alone. If it helps improve the tool's performance or makes it easier to use, I say, do it.

One of the first jigs I made for my saw was I a tenoning jig that saddles the Biesmeyer fence and slides along its length. I quickly noticed that the plastic edge banding they use to trim the edges of the side boards wasn't the same height on both side, and it adversely effected the tenoning jig's motion.

So I flipped the thing over, held one side square to my jointer fence and ran it through, trimming both edge bandings perfectly flat and at the same height. That took care of that. Did I even give a second thought to the fact that I was somehow taking the fence's virginity? I didn't even give it a first thought.

[Artemus]

The manufacturer doesn't always get it right as evidenced by the discussion here:

didn't advocate keeping tools in pristine condition. I frequently modify mine as you note above and sometimes it's a hassle but worth it IMO. My original response was in regard to your no hassle statement which I felt was misleading. Art

[Lew Hodgett]

--------------------------------------- I could see having different attaching faces for different

----------------------------------- See my post on "Video of Shop Made Sacrifical Fence Clamps" for Unifence.

--------------------------------------------- Couple of 1/4-20 FH bolts with fender washers and wing nuts (all stainless steel), worked for me on my Unifence.

One fence consisted of 2 pieces of 3/4 (actual size) (13 ply birch), about 8" wide x 36" long glued together.

This oversize fence accepted a T-Track to mount feather boards, etc.

The 2nd piece of 3/4" (13 ply) served as the actual sacrifical fence.

Both were bolted to fence extrusion as req'd.

Why 2 pieces glued together?

Unique to Unifence.

"Low" & "High" fence settings are 1-1/2" apart, thus it is a no-brainer to use Unifence scale directly.

Lew

[-MIKE-]

Misleading? Ok. Guess it depends on your definition of "no hassle." But we can disagree. :-)

I read that thread 'til the end and it turns out the company replace his fence, so that would imply that they are supposed to be square to the table.

[Lew Hodgett]

RE: Subject

See pic posted on alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking

Lew