Pic of Bill's Unisaw

This is the pic from the auction site. http://www.flickr.com/photos/438361 44@N04/11151705784/
There is a shaper mobile base under it. Bill will have to raise the saw to get that mobile base out, then reinstall the lower trim onto the cabinet's bottom edge, then slip the saw's proper mobile base under. Tilting the sa w, to shim it may be difficult for Bill, alone, because, in part, there are no legs under the side table. He has already stated the saw tilted toward the unsupported side table end (there are no legs under the side table, at the moment) and he was concerned about it over-tilting (uncontroled), that way.
An engine hoist would definitely help. Weigh that rental cost against his making a frame support, to shim/elevate the saw. He can't shim at the bott om and do all the base work, the shims will be in his way. IMO, the saw ha s to be shimmed and/or supported at the tabletop, for the bottom to be open /free, for the installation of trim and proper mobile base.
With a custom support frame, a crow bar would work, but I'd likely use a 2X or something softer than a metal bar, to prevent scratching the saw. With a crow bar: Maybe clamp a 1X under each side of the tabletop and lever aga inst the 1X wood.
My suggestions are for Bill working alone. With some assistance, his tasks would be easier, plus he would have someone else to blame if something got screwed up.
It's too cold to do any woodwork, now, so he has plenty of time to plan, li ft the saw safely, etc., etc., so the more suggestions from everyone, the b etter for him to develope the best plan of action.
Sonny
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Hope he got a good deal.
Sorry, but judging from that photo, that saw needs to be partially disassembled and properly reassembled. The first thing I would do would be to remove the top, outfeed table and motor and reassemble the cabinet and component parts _from the bottom up_.
Would be a whole lot easier, can be done by one person, without all the lifts and kludges being contemplated, and the upside is that the knowledge gained by doing so will stand him in good stead for years to come.
(Wish I had just the magnetic switch cover, it is identical to mine, which screw tits are broken and the part held on with bailing wire, and a replacement part unavailable without buying the entire switch for $200.)
--
www.ewoodshop.com (Mobile)

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On 12/1/2013 9:51 AM, Sonny wrote:

Bill goto home depot, find a piece of angle iron about 3 feet long get the widest angle , get a 2 x 4. cut the 2 x 4 up into 6 inch pieces.
put the angle iron up on the 2x4 blocking tilt the saw up and have your wife move the angle iron under the saw frame toward the right side of the cabinet based on the pic. so the angle is parallel to the right side of the cabinet. about 4 inches off the ground. You are tilting the saw back off the current mobile base, using the leverage of the table top and bars. it should be easy . Make sure the 2x4's are outside the inteference range of the proper mobile base. lift the saw onto the angle using the leverage of the long table, have your wife back away from this while you raise the unit.
Have her pull the existing mobile base out carefully. some string attached to both sides of the base will keep her hands away from the base.
After clearing it, have her carefully slide the proper base in under the saw.. slowly lower the saw into the cradle. Once down on the left side, lift the saw using the long leverage, have her remove the angle.. lower the saw.
This is really easy, and should not cause much strain on the saw. use the rails.
You can prepare 2 angle irons if you like to be able to safely let the saw down so you can put the base under...
Very easy..
--
Jeff

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woodchucker wrote:

Mr. Woodchucker,
That is a clever use of the leverage offered by the rails. Unfortunately, I cannot just set the saw on top of the sub-base because there would be no way to put the nuts on to attach the sub-base (which attach from underneath, inside of the area of the sub-base. There is nothing to keep these two surfaces aligned either, besides the bolts and gravity. I still need to obtain the connectors (special nuts and bolts), so it's not like I could do it now even if I wanted to. Thanks! --Bill
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wrote:

Remove the table, and the wings if he's worried about them. I wouldn't move it with the table attached, anyway.

Someone to bounce ideas off of, too. That's always a help when entering uncharted territory.

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Sonny wrote:

<snip>

Sonny, Thank you very, very much for explaining my situation. Not because I am in need of so many additional suggestions at this point, but to help folks to adequately understand the problem as they expend good energy trying to be helpful (while thinking I'm an idiot! --lol)
Bill
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