I recently bought a PC 892 router and I have a question about the
I loosen the motor clamp, push the "rack release" knob, and zero the
Problem is, when I release the rack lock, the bit always protrudes a
bit from the base.
Am I doing something wrong here?
I've never used this quick-release system before, since I also have an
old PC 690.
Thanks for any help.
Are you really zeroing the bit or just letting it adjust to the closest
coarse adjustment. I am not totally familiar with this unit but have a Bosch
with a similar coarse adjustment. You have to fine tune the bit and then
zero the adjustment knob.
Rightfully expecting too much.
All fixed base routers are sloppy in their base castings.
As such, you can't hit target depth by reading or adjusting much of
anything, (the first time).
Once you know the slop factor add that into your depth adjust
Plunge routers, good ones like DW 621, have near zero slop on their
plunge tubes and can damn near hit target everytime, but alas, not
with a sloppy/rocky depth turret in play.
So, when you release the lock and then release the lever, the router motor
drops a bit?
Then, you take up the slack and set the router to your depth.
That is the way mine works. It seems to me that there is too much play in
Pat Warner, in another post, is quite right. There is considerable slop in
most all fixed base routers, the 890 being a rather sloppy one. Best way to
adjust it is with it upside down and measure the bit height. Forget the
graduations. I have an 892 in a table. Once you get used to the technique,
it can be set dead on every time.
I have a 890 series router mounted in a table. For now, I reach under
the table and turn it on/off using the router switch. I intend to
mount a switched outlet that I can plug the router into and use that
switch for on/off leaving the router switch turned on.
I enjoy being able to change bits by raising the router up as high as
it will go (in the table) and engaging the auto spindle lock. Looking
at the router, it looks like the spindle lock won't engage if the
router switch is on. There goes my switched outlet technique. Am I
seeing this correctly? Can I leave the router switch set to "on" and
still crank the router up to engage the spindle lock?
The outside switch is a good idea even if your router must be turned off
with it's own switch to engage the spindle lock. My Triton works this way
and this is a good safety feature. I have to use the router switch to
change bits but after the lock is disengaged I leave the router switch on
and use the external switch to turn the router on and off the numerous times
that come up between bit changes.
You are correct that you can not engage the spindle lock unless the switch
is in the off position. I remove the router from the table and change bits
with two wrenches. I also have a table mounted switch. If I were you, I
would cut off the plastic piece that blocks the spindle lock. It's either
that or get used to reaching down and turning the switch back on after each
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