PC 892 Router Question

Hello all,
I recently bought a PC 892 router and I have a question about the depth adjustment.
I loosen the motor clamp, push the "rack release" knob, and zero the bit.
Problem is, when I release the rack lock, the bit always protrudes a bit from the base.
Am I doing something wrong here?
I've never used this quick-release system before, since I also have an old PC 690.
Thanks for any help.
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Are you really zeroing the bit or just letting it adjust to the closest coarse adjustment. I am not totally familiar with this unit but have a Bosch with a similar coarse adjustment. You have to fine tune the bit and then zero the adjustment knob.
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Rightfully expecting too much. All fixed base routers are sloppy in their base castings. As such, you can't hit target depth by reading or adjusting much of anything, (the first time). Once you know the slop factor add that into your depth adjust calculations.
Plunge routers, good ones like DW 621, have near zero slop on their plunge tubes and can damn near hit target everytime, but alas, not with a sloppy/rocky depth turret in play.
http://www.patwarner.com (Routers) ***************************************************

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On Mar 1, 1:14 pm, snipped-for-privacy@patwarner.com wrote:

Oddly enough, I have a DW 621, but I seem to prefer my DW 618 with the plunge base.
I think I own almost as many routers as Norm.
I have 7 or 8 now. I think they breed when I'm not looking!
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drops a bit? Then, you take up the slack and set the router to your depth. That is the way mine works. It seems to me that there is too much play in the mechanism.
Jim
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Pat Warner, in another post, is quite right. There is considerable slop in most all fixed base routers, the 890 being a rather sloppy one. Best way to adjust it is with it upside down and measure the bit height. Forget the graduations. I have an 892 in a table. Once you get used to the technique, it can be set dead on every time.

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I have a 890 series router mounted in a table. For now, I reach under the table and turn it on/off using the router switch. I intend to mount a switched outlet that I can plug the router into and use that switch for on/off leaving the router switch turned on.
I enjoy being able to change bits by raising the router up as high as it will go (in the table) and engaging the auto spindle lock. Looking at the router, it looks like the spindle lock won't engage if the router switch is on. There goes my switched outlet technique. Am I seeing this correctly? Can I leave the router switch set to "on" and still crank the router up to engage the spindle lock?
Bill Leonhardt
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The outside switch is a good idea even if your router must be turned off with it's own switch to engage the spindle lock. My Triton works this way and this is a good safety feature. I have to use the router switch to change bits but after the lock is disengaged I leave the router switch on and use the external switch to turn the router on and off the numerous times that come up between bit changes.
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You are correct that you can not engage the spindle lock unless the switch is in the off position. I remove the router from the table and change bits with two wrenches. I also have a table mounted switch. If I were you, I would cut off the plastic piece that blocks the spindle lock. It's either that or get used to reaching down and turning the switch back on after each bit change.
wrote:

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