Panel saw plans.

I just picked up a copy of Woodworkers Journal's WORKSHOP projects. I think it is a year old or so (Winter 2004) (Is this a Rockler gig?)
There are some plans in it for a panel saw. I have limited space, so that is a good reason. The sheets of solid surfacing material run around 160 pounds..and MUCH easier to throw around on edge than flat. Accuracy is nice but more important later in the fabricating process...I can be out as much as a whole 1/8" either way over 30". Good reason # 2
Have any of you fine folks built this model or one similar to it?
The 'custom' hardware kit for this puppy is 300 smackeroonies..I'll wing it with aluminum by the pound (Standard extrusions).... after all, I'm not making watches. The accuracy comes later on the bench.. before I make all the pieces to be assebled on the job site. These knees don't carry the heavy chunks like they used to. (Which is why they're in the shape they're in? I'm getting a lube-job on the 27th of Jan..needles in the joint ..yeeeeee-frickin'-haw..)
I would appreciate any and all input.
Thanks in advance.
Rob----who doesn't sweat the petty things and doesn't pet the sweaty things.
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I made this one:
http://store.yahoo.com/woodsmithstore/panelsawkit.html
It is a little cheaper and works well for me. The removable wings are handy, and it folds back against the wall and only sticks out about 6". I also have another friend who made the same one. Together, we problably made about every mistake possible, so if you decide to go with the same plans, I can probably tell you what not to do.
The main issue seems to be the track that the panel rests on and slides on while being cut. My friend told me that his was a little tough to push through, and even with the rabbets had a tendency to gather sawdust. So I had the bright idea to mount skateboard wheels instead of the wood strip his uses. I have yet to get them all perfectly aligned (for a number of reasons) and am thinking of redoing it and going with a wood strip with teflon on top. If you're interested, I'll look around and see if I can find the plans.....
Jeff

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Robatoy writes:

Got that last month, and the month before. Both knees in five weeks (three shots per, got one shot each as the left knee series ended). Not a whole lot of fun, but it has helped. Do NOT expect to have teenaged knees, but if you're one of the 50% or so SynVisc and its pals work on, then it saves immediate knee replacement (12 weeks or so downtime, not to mention one helluva lot more pain or so I'm told...the shots are unpleasant enough).
Another suggestion: do not trip and land on your knees 10 days after the shots. It kills about half the good results.
Charlie Self "A politician is an animal which can sit on a fence and yet keep both ears to the ground." H. L. Mencken
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I have made my own version of a panel saw. Mine is accurate to a 1/64" or less. My version only crosscuts, I could make it rip but I have a cabinet saw for that.The tracks are Stanley sliding door hardware, with two extra rollers. I used 5'-0" rails, 6'-0" rails would be more convenient. I would post pictures and the drawings if I could. I can only access this site with Google Groups and it does not allow me to post attachments. Go to Knots forum on the Fine Woodworking website. At the top left you will see Advanced Search, click on this.Scroll down to you see enter # and enter 15836.18 This will take you to an archive . Scott resized my original post as they were too large.The only change I made was to use 1/8" wire cable for the counter weight rope instead of the nylon rope I originally had used.
mike
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snipped-for-privacy@netzero.com wrote:

Post the pictures here for free and then put the links here. I for one would like to see what you've done.
http://tinypic.com/
-- Mark
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On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 15:43:36 GMT, "Mark Jerde"

Here is the link I tracked down: http://forums.taunton.com/n/main.asp?webtag=tp-knots&msg 836.18&find=Search
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On 7 Jan 2005 06:47:00 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@netzero.com wrote:

I'm surprised that this tracks so well - based on my experience using this hardware with sliding doors. You say that there are two extra rollers. So how many roller sets on each side of the saw? In order to get the accuracy, do you have to keep steady pressure against the rails -- i.e., 90 degrees to the run of the rails -- so that the rollers stay in the deepest part of the tracks? Or is this somewhat automatic? TIA. -- Igor
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