Panel Edge Glue-ups Without Jointing?

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On 10/12/10 2:31 PM, Robatoy wrote:

You're saying the top of the surface of material should match up with the apex of the curve in the cutter... the farthest point in or out in the curve.
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You want the exit apex to be vertical, 90 to the surface. If you do anything less or more than that, you will be feathering the edges, lengthening/widening the edge. It would make sense to keep that as tight as possible. Your question, in itself, tells me you understand.
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On 10/12/10 4:37 PM, Robatoy wrote:

In between posts, I finally found a manual on the PC website for the "system."
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I have also used the 'system' to butt-join laminated countertops with very good results.
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wrote:

Can you give a link to the manual? I couldn't find it.
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On 10/13/10 6:57 AM, snipped-for-privacy@myplace.com wrote:

There website is horrible. <http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/documents/English/Instruction%20Manual/Porter-Cable/699353,692.pdf or http://xrl.us/trumatch
If that doesn't work, do to the front of the link and search for "tru-match" under "model."
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Oh my..... That base is a piece of awfulness. It flexes, doesn't stay true and simply isn't big enough. $ 46.00 buys a precision phenolic base from Pinske. You don't have to buy his insert bit holder and wavy bit inserts, because the PC and Freud ones work just fine.
http://www.pinske-edge.com
Look for 'wavy bit' and base.
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On 10/13/10 12:45 PM, Robatoy wrote:

It wasn't an endorsement from me. I was just looking for pictures for my feeble brain. :-)
http://www.pinske-edge.com/shop/product/17/wavy-base-no-holes / http://www.pinske-edge.com/shop/product/18/wavy-base-wholes /
His stuff definitely looks better.
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By the way, I just came home with this... <http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020101/19173/Freud-Glue-Line-Ripping-Saw-Blade.aspx
I love multitaskers and I've never had a good rip blade. I know I paid too much, but that silly schedule schmedule got the best of me.
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Great blade. Used it a lot.
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On 10/13/10 2:36 PM, Robatoy wrote:

This blade is living up to its hype. First thing I noticed is that the stock moves a lot faster with a dedicated rip blade. Second thing I noticed is that the cut surface comes out looking as good or better than a edge done on a router. With the exception of some light burns due to operator error, it cuts a pristine edge.
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IMHO, table saws shine at ripping, it is what they do best. Cutting panels to size (plywood, MDF, PB) is another of its strong points, but a proper panel saw does that job better and takes up way less space, but you can't rip lumber on a panel saw, so table saw it is.
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wrote:

This thread was starting to make me feel inadequate about my table saw, because inspite of having all the fancy blades mentioned here no way in hell can I go straight to a glue up.
Then I flattened a cherry slab that had a twist in it on the cnc and felt better about things ;)
-Kevin
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Fun, huh?
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On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 16:16:00 -0700 (PDT), Robatoy

Yeah, but then you make me feel inadequate about my cnc ;)
-Kevin
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