Painting pressure treated lumber

cement siding. If you paint/prime cut > ends, and flash the butt joint pro= perly, caulking should not be necessary.=20

On a more utilitarian note, the same applies. Some time ago, someone had a= sked about siding for a storage shed, they were building, and asked specifi= cally about using T1-11 siding. I had used T1-11 for my shop and stressed = priming and painting all edges and, in particular, the lower beveled edge, = including 10" up the backside lower edge (in case of rain trying to wick up= on that beveled under-back side.

My garage has T1-11, also, and it has held up well (almost 20 yrs, with per= iodic normal preventive maintenance). I attribute this, at least partially= , to the extra time and care in priming and painting all edges.

Properly taking care of ends and edges should be common sense. =20

I do like the tips for preventing scuffing and the like, too, for some spec= ific products. I've never worked with the specific Hardie board you're spe= aking of, but I've taken note.

Sonny=20

Reply to
cedarsonny
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>>>>>>>>>>>>> So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let

I don't have a Kapex (Bosch), but that sort of job is why I kept my HF SCMS. ;-)

Reply to
krw

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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let

Actually the Bosch, the one with the articulating arm is about half the price of the Kapex and would probably be the one I would buy if I bough a SCMS.

Reply to
Leon

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>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let

I didn't buy that one. It had just come out when I bought mine and there were no reviews yet. I'd probably drop the extra Franklin for it now. The only thing I don't like about my Bosch is its dust collection sucks. Well, it mostly blows.

Reply to
krw

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