Painting pressure treated lumber

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How much space should be between the Hardie planks? If it's to be caulked, there has to be somewhere for the caulk to go. The house we just bought has some gaps that look wider than they should be (and of course, no caulk).
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On 10/1/2012 4:12 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Once upon a time it was 1/8", but some caulk manufacturers recommended 1/4" and now, to add to the confusion, Hardie doesn't necessarily recommend caulking (except that field cut ends should be primed, painted, or caulked on some of their products), and strictly states not to caulk on their colorplus product ... so that's been a moving target since day 1.
Personally, I don't like caulking cement siding. If you paint/prime cut ends, and flash the butt joint properly, caulking should not be necessary.
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Wow! 1/4" is a lot.

Flash?
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On 10/1/2012 5:57 PM, Swingman wrote:

Case in point ... I started a crew installing 10 squares of James Hardie ColorPlus siding earlier this morning at a jobsite.
While the crew had considerable experience installing siding, they had no experience with this particular product, and I'm dammed particular about how it's installed, both to look good, and to maintain product warranty ... particularly with _not_ using caulk if at all possible, painting/priming field cut ends, and proper butt joint flashing.
No problem ... parked the truck in the shade, pulled out the iPad, sat it on the hood, and with the three man crew gathered around we had an impromptu OJT training film by showing the following video, over LTE, on my iPad3 (which never leaves my hands while on site):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Vy1l79CO1E

When anyone had any questions, we replayed the particular parts. Took about ten minutes, and I left to come back to the shop comfortable knowing that the supervisor and crew knows exactly what I expect, all without regard to any language barrier/misinterpretation.
High tech materials, products, tools and technology make for an all around better job, in all aspects ... gotta love it in this day and age.
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Wow, three comments.
1) That is a high tech gadget you carry around that creates an instant, in the field tutorial.
2) You obviously have a good crew there. They gathered around, watched the tutorial and even asked questions.
3) I wish a high tech tutorial would have been available, long ago, when my father gave me that obligatory, rite of passage "birds and bees lecture.
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On 10/4/2012 11:28 AM, Lee Michaels wrote:

:)
Being raised on a horse farm, neither a high tech tutorial, nor parental discussion, was ever actually necessary. Besides, there was Debbie D., a real country girl, who rolled us both up in a blanket one night while camping in the back yard, around the age of twelve, for a "hands on" demo. ;)
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On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

Veeeeeeeeeery Interesting!
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On Thursday, October 4, 2012 10:43:15 AM UTC-5, Swingman wrote:

On a more utilitarian note, the same applies. Some time ago, someone had asked about siding for a storage shed, they were building, and asked specifically about using T1-11 siding. I had used T1-11 for my shop and stressed priming and painting all edges and, in particular, the lower beveled edge, including 10" up the backside lower edge (in case of rain trying to wick up on that beveled under-back side.
My garage has T1-11, also, and it has held up well (almost 20 yrs, with periodic normal preventive maintenance). I attribute this, at least partially, to the extra time and care in priming and painting all edges.
Properly taking care of ends and edges should be common sense.
I do like the tips for preventing scuffing and the like, too, for some specific products. I've never worked with the specific Hardie board you're speaking of, but I've taken note.
Sonny
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On 10/4/2012 10:43 AM, Swingman wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/11227ColorPlusSidingJob102012
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On 10/4/12 6:38 PM, Swingman wrote:

https://picasaweb.google.com/111355467778981859077/11227ColorPlusSidingJob102012
So I see you're painting the factory edges. Do they take care not to let the paint bleed over to the front, to avoid the color not matching, or does the end paint come from the factory?
Also, is that saw on a worm drive motor?
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I just take a piece of the siding to Sherwin Williams and have them match the color for me (buy SW's top, Super paint, not the cheaper stuff). Works, and matches, better than the touchup kits JH sells ... Go figure.

It's my Makita LS1013 SCMS ... using a circular saw to cut butt joints in Hardie's ColorPlus siding is problematic in that the sole plate of the saw, and the framer's square they use in an attempt to square the cut, scuff the product ... Use a SCMS only, or pay the price in repainting most of the project.
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On 10/5/2012 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:

So cutting Hardi with "your" SCMS and the terrible dust, is a Kapex in your future for a replacement? ;~)
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On 10/5/2012 8:08 AM, Leon wrote:

Why ruin an otherwise good Festool Kapex on a siding job?? ;)
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On 10/5/2012 8:19 AM, Swingman wrote:

You would keep the Makita as your beater and the Kapex would never see sunlight, so to speak. LOL
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I don't have a Kapex (Bosch), but that sort of job is why I kept my HF SCMS. ;-)
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On 10/7/2012 6:37 PM, snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Actually the Bosch, the one with the articulating arm is about half the price of the Kapex and would probably be the one I would buy if I bough a SCMS.
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I didn't buy that one. It had just come out when I bought mine and there were no reviews yet. I'd probably drop the extra Franklin for it now. The only thing I don't like about my Bosch is its dust collection sucks. Well, it mostly blows.
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On 10/5/12 7:20 AM, Swingman wrote:

Noted for future reference.
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Right. Painting the cut ends is a RPITA. How do you keep the paint from drying in the can? ...On the brush?
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Make sure you wear a mask at the other end, too!
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