Painting Cherry, HELP

I used some lower grade cherry for a face frame that I was going to paint. Since I was going to paint it, I figured that the blemishes would not be a problem. I primed it with Kilz latex then painted it white. There were no knots in the wood just the grain and dark spots like cherry has. After a week or two, yellowish bleed through starting showing somewhat matching the cherry grain pattern underneath. I then applied the premium grade kilz, not sure of the name it's the one with everything checked off on the can saying it can cover anything with no problems. Anyway it's bleeding through again.
Someone recommended first using shellac on the cherry prior to painting to seal it. My two questions are:
What can I do about the cherry face frames I already painted and are bleeding through?
Also how can I best seal another cherry face frame that I want to paint?
Thanks In advance,
CurtisJon
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Thu, Feb 24, 2005, 1:58am (EST+5) snipped-for-privacy@nobody.net (CurtisJon) asks: <snip> What can I do about the cherry face frames I already painted and are bleeding through? <snip>
Paint 'em yellowish.
JOAT Intellectual brilliance is no guarantee against being dead wrong. - David Fasold
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CurtisJon wrote: snip

I was gonna suggest praying for fotgivness, but I suspect that seppuku is all that will suffice.
Dave in Fairfax
--
Dave Leader
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Seppuku with a belt sander.
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Robatoy wrote:

Random orbital. Same effect, takes longer.
--

FF


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snipped-for-privacy@spamcop.net wrote:

Which grit?
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Robatoy wrote:

A buffing pad.
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FF


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It's the woodworking gods cursing you. The cherry will need to be removed, and replaced with poplar.
Contact JT regarding the required pennance offering.
;-)
Patriarch
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You're being punished for painting Cherry. Quite a sin in the wood working world. As for painting it, well I haven't a clue....never thought about doing such a blasphemous thing to cherry. cc

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CurtisJon wrote:

I'd sand and/or scrape them down and reseal as below. If you can get everything smooth, shellac based sealers will go over almost anything.

I prefer Zinsser Seal Coat dewaxed shellac, or shellac based BIN. Seal Coat is clear, BIN is tinted white. Check a good local paint store for it. DO NOT use standard, canned shellac, as it contains wax which may mess with the paint adhesion.
Seal Coat is sometimes found in Home Centers, but not always. BIN comes in shellac base and water base, DO NOT get the water based product. I've never been a fan of any Kilz product. Either shellac product sands very nicely after it's dry, so don't worry about small defects.

Sure!
Rules like "never stain or paint Widgetwood" can result in ugly wood being used where it shouldn't be. ;^)
Nice wood = "You made that? Wow!" Ugly wood, left visible just because it's Widgetwood = "You made that? Oh..."
Have fun, Barry
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Sand it. Shellac it with any dewaxed shellac. Then if you must... paint it.
Knotty (ie lower grade?) Cherry is actually hard to find and can often cost more. I pick through the stacks just to get my hands on it. Shame to paint it.
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SonomaProducts.com wrote:

He said it had no knots. <G>
Barry
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CurtisJon wrote:

For the already painted ones, there is a product that I've used on ceilings and walls that hides bleed through stains (water, toilet water etc). It is silver/gray in colour, and then another coat of white goes on top. Unfortunately I don't have any, so I don't know the name, but if you ask at a BORG, they will tell you. That might be worth a try.
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