Padauk and ebony table

I have a friend who wants me to build him another table. The proportions of the table would amount to a relatively large coffee table. It will actually be used for writing, but due to a back problem, he is most comfortable sitting on the floor, which is why the table height will be about 14". We looked at lumber today, and he is really enamoured with making the top from padauk and the base from Gaboon ebony. He's aware that just the lumber to make the base will run somewhere around $800-900. Around here, Gaboon ebony is $112/BF. My question is: assuming money is not the greatest concern, is there anything inherently nuts about making a table base from ebony?
todd
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Definitely will be sturdy enough. Envious that you know people with that much money to spend. Dream job. Bet it will be great. Looks like a great idea to me.
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I can't remember if ebony is an oily wood or not. If it is, you'll have to select any glues you use carefully.
Norm
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My copy of "The Complete Manual of Woodworking" does not denote ebony as an oily wood, although it does mention that the workability is difficult. Does anyone have experience working ebony and know the kinds of things to watch for?
todd
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I need to wear a respirator when working with ebony. It's the only wood I have problems with and I don't have any other allergies.
RB
todd wrote:

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padouk makes some of the finest dust of most tropicals. it was a real battle to get my dc to get it and keep it out of the air. so watch out.
--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
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You'll need a forklift to move it. :)

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Well, you've got that right. I just added up the numbers, and the table (not including the two drawers, will be right around 100 lbs. This is for a 60"Lx33"Wx14"H table. When it's all said and done, probably 2/3 of the weight will be in the top.
todd
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My friend isn't what I'd call wealthy, but what he has, he doesn't mind spending the money on. He has some specific design concerns here, so he's willing to spend the money to get exactly what he wants.
todd
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Todd,
Here's a few of my secret sources for exotics! I'm sure you can do much better with about any of these sights. I'd bet by at least 1/2 ! Don't tell anyone now, this is a secret! lol I've done business with all of them over the years with much satisfaction.
http://www.gilmerwood.com/ , http://www.anexotichardwood.com/ , http://www.eisenbran.com/ , http://www.righteouswoods.net /
-- just more hot air! 8^)
Sherm aka "cuesmith" in yahoo Sherm Custom Billiard Cues by, Sherman Adamson 3352 Nine Mile Rd., Cincinnati Ohio 45255 Shop (513)553-2172, Cell (513)509-9152 http://www.shermcue.com Over 20 years experience almost a decade in "The American Cuemakers Association"

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I haven't used a lot of ebony, but I have made a few pens on the lathe. Ebony doesn't like heat - it will cause it to crack. When I make pens, I have to go real slow especially with the sanding and drilling to avoid heat build-up or I'll surely get a cracked pen.
Buy all your ebony at one place and one time. There are sublte shades of black to dark brown - try to get it all out of the same tree.
Ebony may not be an "oily wood", but paduk sure is. I've had the best luck with epoxy.
Double check your finish on some scrap (always good advice). Some woods inhibit the drying of oil finishes (I don't know about oil and either ebony or paduk).

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I used padauk to make my front door a couple of years ago. I used urethane (Gorilla glue or equivalent) and have had no problems.
RB
todd wrote:

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I received another suggestion for Gorilla Glue from Steve Knight, so that's what I'll be going with. Thanks for the input.
todd

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If you've never used Gorilla glue practice a bit first. It will expand and flow out on your work over a period of perhaps 30 minutes if too much is applied. In some situations I apply masking tape if I'm concerned about glue flowing out onto the work.
Remember that the chemical reaction associated with the curing of urethane requires water. I usually very slightly, emphasis on slightly, dampen the surfaces to be joined.
RB
Todd Fatheree wrote:

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Hence their slogan "damp it and clamp it"
RB wrote:
-SNIP->

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And wear latex/nitrile gloves, to keep this stuff off of your skin. It stays for a week, before wearing off.
Otherwise, good stuff!
Patriarch
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