Ouch

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A discussion over on Facebook reminded me of another acquaintance of mine falling victim to a power tool accident (a different guy than the one in the my "Table saw accident" thread from late May).
A few weeks ago I was standing in line at my favorite local BBQ place (Texas Rib Kings in Austin) and I noticed the owner (a younger guy; probably mid-thirties) had a large cast-like bandage covering his right hand. I said "What did you do; hoot your poor wittle self?" He said, "Yeah, I cut off all my fingers in a Skil-saw accident!" and he holds up his hand (which was only partially covered by the "bandage") to reveal a ring finger that was missing near the larger knuckle, and the remaining three had clearly been reattached and looking considerably less happy than their former selves. I said "DAMN BUBBA! How the hell did you do that?! And why didn't you stop with the first one?!" He told me a hurried story (he was running the register) about cutting a piece of plywood with his left hand (he's right-handed) in some awkward situation while holding it "steady" with his right, and with his fingers underneath. Some kind of binding or kick-back ensued and the saw jumped right through the wood where his fingers were, and it was all over in an instant. I'm not sure why they couldn't attach the ring finger; the blade probably blew right through the knuckle. Ouch. I didn't bother telling him that the whole incident sounded like something a dumbass would do.
The next time I went in there for lunch I asked somebody else "where Ol' Nine Fingers was" (I can never remember his name). Now everybody calls him that...
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On 7/6/2012 11:23 AM, Steve Turner wrote:

Probably using a right handed/bladed, the most common circular saw, with his left hand so that he could see the blade and the cut.
Circular saws that are right bladed are intended for use with the right hand.
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On 7/6/2012 1:08 PM, Leon wrote:

One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.
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Festool track saw. ;-)
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wrote:

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut wood while wearing gloves.
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Then you not aware of the new-age gloves available these days.
"Class III" cut resistant gloves area amazing. Supple, I can pick up a dime (if it's 1/8" thick with a tapered edge), but DAMN! it 's CUT RESTISTANT.
Explore people, it's amazing waht's out there.
-Zz
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On 7/6/12 9:27 PM, Zz Yzx wrote:

He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III" gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.
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If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.
Puckdropper
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On 7/6/12 10:49 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

Besides that, it's going to cut the $h!t out of your hand. :-) I really doubt those gloves were ever intended to resist cuts from power tools, and certainly not a 3hp tablesaw. I'm guessing they are for utility blades and other hand tools.
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-MIKE- wrote:

I'm not sure about what the "class III" means, but the mylar ones are for such things as working with glass. I know woodcarvers who wear them on the hand that's not holding a knife. The mylar wouldn't prevent a puncture but it would prevent a slash.
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On 7/6/2012 10:49 PM, Puckdropper wrote:

True that. Even so... Looking at the description of these types of gloves for the obvious "DO NOT EXPECT PROTECTION FROM STUPIDITY WHILE OPERATING A TABLE SAW" disclaimer, I see that the level 4 and 5 (highest rated) contain both Kevlar and Stainless Steel wire interwoven.
Ever accidentally run a circular saw through old work containing a nail? How'd that work out, Zz?
Then, too, with all that Kevlar and wire, just how supple and sensitive can they be. And all for <$16.00 too!
What's the saying? Ah, yes, "A fool and his fingers are soon separated"
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Kevlar can be cut with a scissor. I used to take a scissor and use sandpaper to serate the edges, then cut kevlar like butta...
So take that glove, stick a piece of wood in it, and find out how much protection you really have...
I'll bet the wood is mashed or cut.
On 7/7/2012 8:25 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

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On Saturday, July 7, 2012 1:52:53 PM UTC+1, tiredofspam wrote:

I didn't have a whole lot of success cutting kevlar with our (kitchen!) scissors, so I ponied up & bought some scissors that actually mentioned kevlar cutting ability....
http://www.precisionhandtools.co.uk/Heavy-Duty-scissors-workshop-DIY-Handman-Crafts-etc/Engineer-PH-51-heavy-duty-scissors-cutters-workshop-handyman-DIY-Craft-kevlar
whilst not particularly cheap, they actually work extremely well.
Right tool for the job yadayada!
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On 7/18/2012 11:56 AM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

scissors, so I ponied up & bought some scissors that actually mentioned kevlar cutting ability....

http://www.precisionhandtools.co.uk/Heavy-Duty-scissors-workshop-DIY-Handman-Crafts-etc/Engineer-PH-51-heavy-duty-scissors-cutters-workshop-handyman-DIY-Craft-kevlar
Did you try using the sandpaper. Usually about 150 grit, you cut the sandpaper with the scissor and it serates it.
The tooth from the sandpaper is all that is needed to cut kevlar.
My friend who ran a production shop to make model airplanes made of carbon and kevlar showed us this trick.
I started using it, and it cuts like butter.
Those are nice scissors you purchased.
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On 7/18/2012 10:56 AM, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

But were you operating those scissors at a speed in excess of 100 mph??? Kevlar was not designed so that it could not be cut, it was designed so that is could not be torn or ripped suddenly, say in hundred thousands of a second.

scissors, so I ponied up & bought some scissors that actually mentioned kevlar cutting ability....

http://www.precisionhandtools.co.uk/Heavy-Duty-scissors-workshop-DIY-Handman-Crafts-etc/Engineer-PH-51-heavy-duty-scissors-cutters-workshop-handyman-DIY-Craft-kevlar
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On Sat, 07 Jul 2012 07:25:44 -0500, Unquestionably Confused

I'd not want to put any of these up against a table saw blade. I've cut through brads and small nails with no problems, so a woven SS cord it not going to do much for a carbide tipped 10" spinning blade.
Cut: The cut rating is based on the performance rating classified by ANSI/ISEA 105-2005 from a 0-5 level based on the Cut Protection Performance Test (CPPT) value. Cut performance rating measures the amount of force (in grams) applied for failure to occur at 25mm distance of travel for a standard cutting blade. Ansell uses the following standards when reporting cut test values: Multiple tests are conducted All tests follow ASTM F 1790-97 procedures
ANSI Cut Level Cut (Grams) 0 < 200 1 . 200 2 . 500 3 . 1,000 4 . 1,500 5 . 3,500
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There should be big difference from a cut at a glancing and defecting angle vs. a direct, inline, forced push through a blade though.
------ "Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
I'd not want to put any of these up against a table saw blade. I've cut through brads and small nails with no problems, so a woven SS cord it not going to do much for a carbide tipped 10" spinning blade.
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On 7/6/2012 10:03 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

No it wont. The blade will simply cut the leather and not pull it in. Yes I did do an experiment to disprove the belief.
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On 7/7/12 8:18 AM, Leon wrote:

I believe you. I would like to see the same experiment done with these "high tech: glove that aren't made from natural animal hide. I'm guessing those strong strands of steel and kevlar wouldn't so forgiving.
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On 7/7/2012 10:23 AM, -MIKE- wrote:

Yeah anything made like that to resist being cut would probably be dangerous around a saw.
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