Ouch

A discussion over on Facebook reminded me of another acquaintance of mine falling victim to a power tool accident (a different guy than the one in the my "Table saw accident" thread from late May).

A few weeks ago I was standing in line at my favorite local BBQ place (Texas Rib Kings in Austin) and I noticed the owner (a younger guy; probably mid-thirties) had a large cast-like bandage covering his right hand. I said "What did you do; hoot your poor wittle self?" He said, "Yeah, I cut off all my fingers in a Skil-saw accident!" and he holds up his hand (which was only partially covered by the "bandage") to reveal a ring finger that was missing near the larger knuckle, and the remaining three had clearly been reattached and looking considerably less happy than their former selves. I said "DAMN BUBBA! How the hell did you do that?! And why didn't you stop with the first one?!" He told me a hurried story (he was running the register) about cutting a piece of plywood with his left hand (he's right-handed) in some awkward situation while holding it "steady" with his right, and with his fingers underneath. Some kind of binding or kick-back ensued and the saw jumped right through the wood where his fingers were, and it was all over in an instant. I'm not sure why they couldn't attach the ring finger; the blade probably blew right through the knuckle. Ouch. I didn't bother telling him that the whole incident sounded like something a dumbass would do.

The next time I went in there for lunch I asked somebody else "where Ol' Nine Fingers was" (I can never remember his name). Now everybody calls him that...

Reply to
Steve Turner
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Probably using a right handed/bladed, the most common circular saw, with his left hand so that he could see the blade and the cut.

Circular saws that are right bladed are intended for use with the right hand.

Reply to
Leon

One of the few benefits of being a novice, especially a middle-aged novice with a reasonable amount of sense and a talent for the piano, is a tendency to take extra care. Beyond the safety aspect, If I just hold down a board with my off-hand, I make a lousy cut. So for me, it's clamps and a guide fence of some kind. Safety is a nice added benefit.

Reply to
Greg Guarino

Festool track saw. ;-)

Reply to
krw

I once met an eye surgeon at a Woodcraft store, He wore leather gloves to protect his valuable hands. That scared me watching him cut wood while wearing gloves.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Then you not aware of the new-age gloves available these days.

"Class III" cut resistant gloves area amazing. Supple, I can pick up a dime (if it's 1/8" thick with a tapered edge), but DAMN! it 's CUT RESTISTANT.

Explore people, it's amazing waht's out there.

-Zz

Reply to
Zz Yzx

He wrote "leather." A table saw blade with grab leather gloves and pull your hand into the blade. And I don't care what those "class III" gloves are made of, they're not going to stop a table saw blade.

Reply to
-MIKE-

-MIKE- wrote in news:jt88tb$o8q$ snipped-for-privacy@speranza.aioe.org:

If a cut resistant glove resists the cut, there's a good chance the blade will grab and slam your hand into the table. With that much speed and force, it can be just as bad or worse than cutting your hand.

Puckdropper

Reply to
Puckdropper

Besides that, it's going to cut the $h!t out of your hand. :-) I really doubt those gloves were ever intended to resist cuts from power tools, and certainly not a 3hp tablesaw. I'm guessing they are for utility blades and other hand tools.

Reply to
-MIKE-

I'm not sure about what the "class III" means, but the mylar ones are for such things as working with glass. I know woodcarvers who wear them on the hand that's not holding a knife. The mylar wouldn't prevent a puncture but it would prevent a slash.

Reply to
Bill

Zz Yzx wrote in news:be7fv7lbssun87go4c25d3703d1ku7c64u@

4ax.com:

I didn't realize that leather was a "new-age" material.

Apparently *you* are not aware of what a "cut resistant" glove is for.

Their purpose is to protect woodcarvers from a slip of a knife or carving chisel. They WILL NOT protect your hands from a saw blade. Sure, maybe the blade won't cut through the glove, but it can sure as hell snag the fabric. When a 10" table saw blade (tip speed approximately 110 mph) snags the glove, what do you suppose will happen to the hand that's inside the glove?

Wearing gloves of any sort when operating power woodworking tools isn't very smart.

Reply to
Doug Miller

"Doug Miller" wrote

That fits into the category of neckties, long sleeves, untamed long hair, etc. Anything a fast moving, cutting tool can grab is dangerous. Don't give the tool something to grab! It is that simple.

Reply to
Lee Michaels

True that. Even so... Looking at the description of these types of gloves for the obvious "DO NOT EXPECT PROTECTION FROM STUPIDITY WHILE OPERATING A TABLE SAW" disclaimer, I see that the level 4 and 5 (highest rated) contain both Kevlar and Stainless Steel wire interwoven.

Ever accidentally run a circular saw through old work containing a nail? How'd that work out, Zz?

Then, too, with all that Kevlar and wire, just how supple and sensitive can they be. And all for

Reply to
Unquestionably Confused

Kevlar can be cut with a scissor. I used to take a scissor and use sandpaper to serate the edges, then cut kevlar like butta...

So take that glove, stick a piece of wood in it, and find out how much protection you really have...

I'll bet the wood is mashed or cut.

Reply to
tiredofspam

And like the gloves were going to prevent a cut. Actually the gloves don't add any danger from the aspect of pulling your hand into the blade, the blade will simply cut through the leather as it wold the wood or your hand. I have conducted an experiment with leather/canvas work gloves. I laid the glove on the saw and pushed it into the blade with a stick. The glove stay where ever I pushed it regardless of how far into the glove the bade had cut.

Now gloves around a drill press or lathe would be another matter, the glove is less likely to be cut and really pull you in.

Reply to
Leon

No it wont. The blade will simply cut the leather and not pull it in. Yes I did do an experiment to disprove the belief.

Reply to
Leon

No problem ... ex post facto, file a suit against the manufacturer in Massachusetts.

Reply to
Swingman

That has not been my experience. A while back I was resawing on a TS and t= here was a significant hollow on the blade side of the board. Due to the e= xtremely splintery nature of the wood I was wearing leather gloves. About = halfway through the cut the blade came out the side of the wood and I felt = a slight vibration on the tip of my middle finger. The blade had cut throu= gh the leather and had just nicked my finger. The blade didn't catch and s= lam, it cut.

Reply to
JayPique

I'd not want to put any of these up against a table saw blade. I've cut through brads and small nails with no problems, so a woven SS cord it not going to do much for a carbide tipped 10" spinning blade.

Cut: The cut rating is based on the performance rating classified by ANSI/ISEA 105-2005 from a 0-5 level based on the Cut Protection Performance Test (CPPT) value. Cut performance rating measures the amount of force (in grams) applied for failure to occur at 25mm distance of travel for a standard cutting blade. Ansell uses the following standards when reporting cut test values: ? Multiple tests are conducted ? All tests follow ASTM F 1790-97 procedures

ANSI Cut Level Cut (Grams)

0 < 200 1 . 200 2 . 500 3 . 1,000 4 . 1,500 5 . 3,500
Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

There should be big difference from a cut at a glancing and defecting angle vs. a direct, inline, forced push through a blade though.

Reply to
m II

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