OT: Shower tile

Silicone based products get a bad rap in my book, but not for the reasons m ost don't like it. It started years ago when it was touted as a product th at would seal any surface, could be used as an adhesive, would work for all kinds of minor repairs, and was the must have sealer/adhesive/caulk/waterp roofer for repair and remodeling.

Then we find out the hard way (NO warning from the GE people 40 years ago) that silicone sealer isn't UV resistant. So all the sheet metal flashings that have been sealed with this will leak in about 3 years.

We didn't know that surfaces to be sealed had to be PERFECTLY clean. Any t ype of surface residue will prevent a good seal.

No one told me it wasn't paintable. So with the really nice paints that I use that will adhere to motor oil (just a joke...) they would stick to the silicone, but peel off later.

Found out it worked reasonably well as an adherent, but did not penetrate c ertain surfaces well enough to call it an adhesive.

Result: No silicone product in the truck or on the job for the last 25 yea rs. There are much better products out there for each one of the tasks men tioned above, and they are a lot less money, too.

I see now they have different products that correct all the problems I had long ago, but on examination of the tubes I found at HD, they still don't h ave one product that is UV resistant, mildew resistant, paintable, etc., in one tube.

No thanks. I like PERMANENT repairs, repairs that I walk away from and nev er think about again.

If I was replacing a tile, I would use DAP with Microban. When do a tiny r epair like that I get the small tube in the correct grout color and glue it in, then use the DAP as grout.

As far as the problem with the glaze on the tile, no need to reiterate good solutions.

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41
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Thanks for your post. So, if I follow you, you use the DAP as the adhesive too. Carefully scrape off all the old mastic, huh?

Bill

Reply to
Bill

Yes. But depending on the age and type of mastic, I use an old chisel (like my POS Buck Brothers) or even a box cutter to cut away the mastic. The old mastic should have penetrated the tile backing well enough to make it impossible to get it all off.

The good thing about the DAP is that it is thick enough to make a dandy gap filler behind the tile, allowing you to put a good amount of the DAP onto the tile, and mash it gently into place, stopping when the tile is flush with the surrounding tiles.

After mashing into place, run the appropriate sized bead of DAP around the tile to match the grout joints, wipe away the excess DAP with a wet paper towel and give it a day to dry before use.

Robert

Reply to
nailshooter41

Thanks! You guessed right. I used a box cutter. I even had to put a new blade in it (and it was still "impossible to get it all off", as you wrote below--but I think I got enough of it off). I found that my Crazy Glue was dried-up, so I'll pick up some of that with the DAP adhesive tomorrow. I hope my experience will serve as a good lesson for everyone not to shut their sliding shower doors too hard (and I'm glad I'm not upset at anyone else over it)! : )

Bill

Reply to
Bill

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