OT - INCRA 1000HD Silly Question

Santa Sweetie got me a new INCRA 1000HD for Christmas. I have been fighting the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.
How many INCRA users have made a sub fence?
Thanks
RonB
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RonB wrote:

the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.Think of clampling a 1/2" dowel onto your bench, and cutting it 6 inches off the side of your bench with a hand saw. Then cut it again 1/4" off the side of the bench. Do you think the cuts will be the same?
Bill

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wrote:

the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.

I haven't, but I should have. I've nicked the fence a number of times. Aluminum cuts good. :-(
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On 1/3/2013 7:15 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.

mitering.
I have used a sacrificial fence on it at times. Mostly not since it interferes with the dual stops.
Only when I need to be absolutely tearout free or too small a piece to cut and needs to be supported on both sides, so I can use something to hold one side while cutting, like a pencil w/eraser to hold .
No you don't need it. But the hardware is handy when you do need to make one.
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On 1/3/2013 6:15 PM, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.

Believe me, adding that aux fence does not prevent that! DAMHIKT
I religiously use and depend on the stop/scale. I also keep my aluminum fence relatively close to the blade so that the stop can be easily calibrated. If you have all this set up with the fence close to the blade and change the angle setting to say 45 degrees the fence will be in the pat of the blade. I know this from experience. :~(
IMHO easier to forget this using an aux fence because you no longer care if you cut through the fence, aux fence that is, you/I more easily forget about the primary aluminum fence.
That said I would not use the 1000HD with out an aux fence. Way too many advantages to using with vs. with out. an advantage in particular is using it to prevent tear out on the back side of a dado cut.
SO keep that in mind!
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On Thursday, January 3, 2013 6:15:43 PM UTC-6, snipped-for-privacy@attt.bizz wrote:

Yes it does. I manufactured two aluminum scales from a 60" scale last year and my miter saw didn't even slow down. I stupidly laid the scale to the saw and then later hefted a 2x4 on the saw for a quick cut. Cut quick!
RonB
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On Thursday, January 3, 2013 3:18:45 PM UTC-6, RonB wrote:

I went ahead a made an MDF fence after I posted the message. I thought it would be more difficult to get on and off; but the the plate nuts make removal simple and quick. No big deal. I'll probably make a couple more to keep in reserve.
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FWIW I quickly added a MDF fence to my 1000 HD. Make it long enough and you can cut it as it wears on the ends.
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On 1/3/2013 9:48 PM, RonB wrote:

the crud but finally got it installed and calibrated today and I am impressed with the overall miter gage. However, the installation handbook suggests a sub-fence or zero clearance sacrificial fence made of MDF or similar material. I have such a fence on my stock miter gages but was wondering, with the extension bar, do you rally need it for more than controlling tear-out.

would be more difficult to get on and off; but the the plate nuts make removal simple and quick. No big deal. I'll probably make a couple more to keep in reserve.

I was also very concerned with using the aux fence especially with changing from one miter slot to the other miter slot. Not really a problem at all.
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On 1/4/2013 12:14 PM, Leon wrote:

like their flip stops.
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On 1/4/2013 5:05 PM, tiredofspam wrote:

So what are you doing wrong here??? I have the aux MDF fence attached to my 1000HD and have no problem using the flip stops....
Keep in mind that you have to move the flip stops to the front slot. Look here,
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/8348072358/in/photostream/lightbox /
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<snip>

Thanks Leon. Gotta outfit mine like that!
--
Best regards
Han
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On 1/4/2013 8:42 PM, Han wrote:

Hey Han! Two buds with one rock!
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On 1/4/2013 7:26 PM, Leon wrote:

together I never noticed that there were two slot positions.
Thanks for the picture.. DOH!!!!
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tiredofspam <nospam.nospam.com> wrote:

Ahhhhhh confuse us say pitcher worth a Brazilian words!
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On Saturday, January 5, 2013 10:17:04 AM UTC-6, tiredofspam wrote:

The second slot position is one of those thing you finally discover after using the gauge quite a bit. OR..... you can read the owners manual. :0)
Sorry..... I just had to.
RonB
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On 1/15/2013 8:55 PM, RonB wrote:

I think I had read them, but really forgot. And quite honestly with the carriage centered, you don't see the other channel. So while I didn't originally start out using the subfence, when I needed it, I did not know that it could be moved to another location. Now that Leon has enlightened me I do feel stupid, but have mounted it now since it's just as easy to use. Wish I knew that earlier.
--
Jeff

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