The risk of sanding too deep. It would *very* easy to sand too far with
a ROS without a lot of practice.
That size repair with those black, mesh drywall sheets could be done in
less time than it would take to unwrap the get the ROS out, unwrap the
cord and plug it in. :-)
Seriously, drywall mud is about the fastest thing in the world to sand.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I used 150 grit (screen) on the setting/taping coat, and 220 grit on the
final coat with good results. Important to go in a circular pattern to
avoid leaving grooves. I've seen others complain that the screens
leave defects (before painting), but I think they must not have used a
good primer. My experience is limited to one 600 square foot project. If
you can spend a little for a sanding pad you can attach to a shop vac,
you would enjoy it very much--but you don't have that much to do (maybe
you can borrow one?) As suggested, "wet sanding" may be even better
(for the last of it).
It's much more abrasive, and would probaby destroy your sander (not
immediately) but as the dust keeps working at the bearings etc.
I use a dustless system, its a bucket with water, and a hand sander. The
dust gets sucked up by the pad into the bucket of water. A shop vac is
attached... That's the way to go.
The directions that came with my pole sander said that "water in the
shop vac" would work with it, but that a drywall bag would work better.
I would say that the water in the shop vac was a "total failure". Your
approach reminds me of those (saw) dust collection canisters folks use.
It makes good sense.
I have one that just attaches to a shop vac. As Bill notes, it does
plug up but it takes a lot of dust to do it. It's not difficult,
though a bit messy, to clean. When the job is done, pitch the filter.
Oh, and use the drywall filters. The standard filters are too coarse
and the vac will pump the finest dust everywhere. DAMHIK.
The water filter sounds like a good idea, though with pre-mixed mud it
must make a real sludgy mess.
results. it all depends on how good you are at scultping, because that
is what it amounts to some times... I tried that, not as nice.
Acceptable for a few .. much longer than having the right equipment.
Yes, I use Easy Sand 90 for the first coat, my sponge method if
satisfied then I prime, then finishing compound and sponge, prime
If I take my time and take off my glasses (being nearsighted in one
eye and 20/20 in the other) to inspect you won't see the repair.
Yes, as long as you use drying compound vs setting. The only thing holding
the calcium carbonate particles together in drying compound is starch. It
melts again easily.
Setting compound is thin gypsum plaster (calcium sulfate); the water causes
a chemical bonding and it won't melt after setting.
You better believe It does. It even works with Durabond, too.
In my experience there are two conditions that need to be met to make
using a damp sponge more desirable than sanding with a screen, an
abrasive pad or sand paper. The first thing is the application of the
compound needs to be relatively smooth and the second thing is the
sponge cannot be too wet.
If the application of compound was too thick or too inconsistent I use
an abrasive and clean up the mess. If the sponge is too wet you will
either just smear the compound around or you will take off too much in
one area. It takes practice. I've done a lot of drywall repair and
replacement and I still prefer to do the majority of the work with an
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