OS Hardwax Oil on Butcher Block countertop

I decided to purchase butcher block countertops from IKEA since they are 1/3 the cost. I haven't purchased them yet, but they look to have a oil-based finish already on them. I was hoping to use Hardwax Oil to finish the countertops but I was told by Hardwax Oil sales rep. that it may not set right since another finish was used. Has anyone used this Hardwax Oil?... any suggestions on what to do besides sand the entire countertop and start from scratch?... I'm hoping the Hardwax Oil will work fine overtop of the old oil finish. Thanks in advance!
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are we talking about 'functional' butcher block counters? onces you can cut stuff directly on? if so just buy cheap plain ole mineral oil. you dont want to be eating hardwax oil.
randy

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Thanks for the response! I'll be using a cutting board for most of my cutting. I will have food on the counter but I was assured that this hardwax oil, once cured, is safe for foods. I want to use the hardwax oil to keep out as much moisture as possible without having to seal the wood in a poly. Also, this is a finish you only have to put on once... and then do periodic touch-ups..... at least that's what I've been told. I hope the people over at environmental home center were not lying to me... however, I've read a couple of post about this stuff and all seem to be very please with the results. Anyways.... Do you know if I can apply this hardwax oil over a oil finish? Thanks.
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Can you get a sample of the counter top you want to use and try it out with the finish you want for a while? You could try the hardwax oil over the oil finish, abuse it for a while, and see how the finish holds up.
Neil
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cut
dont
im with neil on this one. i wouldnt want to do a whole countertop without testing it out first. quick searches revealed nothing about it being used in this application. it seems to be a floor covering <g>
but the main thing is this. it seems to dry to a hard finish. once you cut that finish with a knife, you need to seal that back up. it doesnt look like this product will reseal itself. this is why most people just use mineral oil. ya its a pain, and ya you have to redo it about once every month or two (doesnt take but a couple minutes), but it keeps the oil barrier intact. mineral oil is als overy cheap, and the absolute recommended way to take care of a butcher block. i wouldnt buck the system if it were my countertop....
randy
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it's real nice stuff I use it for my planes because it dries fast. but it needs atleast two coats. but I am not sure if you want to cut on it since it does not penetrate deeply. on places you don't cut on it should be nice.
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Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
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<Snip>

<Snip>
Well then, this is good news for Fred in Waco. He can try out the finish he wants on those new countertops. That will *require* purchasing several hand planes from Mr. Knight and then several projects featuring said planes in order to test the durability of that Hardwax Oil. Gosh darn it, Fred's going to have buy some new tools... <vbg>
Neil <who is pleased with the Hardwax Oil finish on his countertops and his jack plane...>
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Hahahaha... yes I will need some new tools. Well, I picked up the countertops from IKEA last night, and the good news is they come raw (or at least they appear to be). This means I can go ahead and test out my Hardwax Oil. I'm putting a kitchen sink in them..... and yes, I know I'm breaking a countertop cardinal rule by doing this, but I couldn't resist the displays they had setup at IKEA. They must have shown 3-4 kitchen models where the kitchen sinks were in butcher block. Getting back on track... this is why I want to use this Hardwax Oil. I know the area around the sink is going to get wet and I want the best moisture protection without a poly plastic wrap. The Hardwax Oil doesn't come in for a couple of days, so if you guys have any other suggestions feel free to voice them. To reitereate.... I know dropping a sink into butcher block doesn't make me the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I can't resist it. I'll post my results here in a year or two to let everyone know how it worked out for me. Thanks for the suggestions and advice.
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I know the hardwood wax will not hurt anything if it does not work. remember the stuff does not keep well in the can so using some of that spray to displace the air is a must.
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