Thank god for a little bit of rust and a missing blade! I was at an
Auction yesterday and just picked up a delta Unisaw serial number
122-3968 for an amazingly low price. Winning bid was fifty dollars.
even with then 10% buyers premium and sales tax I was out the door for
fifty nine dollars and change. As I told my wife "it was too cheap not
to buy" Yes is is three phase but I couln't resist the intact cabinet
with the cast iron base and the cast iron motor cover. the both seem
much cooler that my current unisaw of mid 80s vintage instead of the
late 50s. Along with the saw came a mitre gage that reads "THE DRIVER
LINE" geared self indexing mitre gage patent no 2,010882. it seems
to be pretty cool and features preset angles and allow you to dial the
angle you want with the geared knob and then lock it into position
with the top knob without deflecting the angle at all. Also wear a
couple of throat plates for a dado blade. It is missing a fence but
that should be no problem to add a good biesemeyer. This saw even had
a blade guard in good working order that my current saw lacks. The
handwheels were hard to turn but are now smooth once i cleaned the
accumulated sawdust and gave them a light coat of grease. The arbor
seems tight without any play and spins freely.
A couple of questions. I want to pick between the two saws and make
one for the shop.
My preferences are to keep the base and cabinet of the older saw. But
the single phase motor of the newer saw. Can I just switch motor and
the switch and starter apperatus? The old saw has an oval opening and
the newer saw is more rectangular.
Once I clean up ther table of the older saw it looks like it will be
the better table. The newer saw has the t mitre slots and the older
table does not. Is there any huge benefit to the t slots vs plain?
any reccomendations for a fence system?
first off, YOU SUCK!
cast base unisaw with the motor cover for fifty bucks <grumble
second, the miter gage is a walker turner, not a delta.
third, either the miter gage or the cast motor cover are worth a good
bit more than what you paid for the saw. did you get the louvered dust
door too? that's also valuable on the collector market.
fourth, keep the old saw. to be most correct, from a collector's piont
of view, keep the 3phase motor in it and run it with a VFD.
fifth, get yourself on over to www.owwm.com. there you can find out a
lot more about your new score.
Yes is is three phase but I couln't resist the intact cabinet
| with the cast iron base and the cast iron motor cover. the both seem
I need a 3 Phase motor like that if you want to sell it. If you aren't too
far away to ship to the Dallas area
I will email you if your email addy is good, Thanks
On Thu, 20 Dec 2007 19:56:45 -0800 (PST), brandom11
the 3PH motor is probly 1725 RPM and the newer 1PH is probly 3450RPM
so you may have to change the motor pulley and the belts too. use the
pulley and belts from the newer saw. the arbor is the same or close
enough i believe. I converted one a few years back but I had to buy
the extra parts! not cheap but I am happy with the results.
You definitely rate a big YOU SUCK for this one !!! Fifty dollars ?
If I were you (I wish) I would fix up this beautiful old saw, buying it
whatever it needs, including a new 50" Biesmeyer fence, while leaving your
new saw completely intact (you've got to have something to use in the
meantime). You could run the 3 phase motor with a phase converter or buy it
a new single phase motor. Either way you are still money ahead. When you
finally get that old saw all fixed up you can then make a decision which of
the saws you want to keep for yourself (my bet is on the old one). Then you
can sell the other saw to one of us needy people here for a full recovery of
all of the money that you have invested in fixing the old saw plus a nice
profit for your effort. I could sure use a Unisaw. I'll tell you what, I'll
buy whichever saw that you decide not to keep (if you live near enough to me
to make picking it up reasonably possible). If not to me I'm sure someone on
this group will be very happy to take it off your hands for fair money.
Hi all wasn't even thinking of the gloat but I take the "YOU SUCK"
with the highest of regard. I was stunned when it was announced
sold $50.00 to bidder no 855. What made it even more surreal it the
next item was a shiny tiny aluminum ryobi with fold down wheels that
went for $85.00 and then two roller stands that went for $35.00. Just
a funny crowd, there for the skis and other stuff, not a closed
cabinet shop or other auction that brings woodworkers together and
Any way a freind came over tonight and I have it out of the truck and
into the shop. I'll try to get a few photos posted.
It does have the louvered dust door but it is missing the knob. Do I
search for the original part or chuck up a chunk of wood in the lathe?
What I'm thinking about is just lifting swapping the whole assembly,
motor and all out of my newer saw and dropping it into the base of the
older saw. a neighbor has an engine hoist. Has anyone tried this?
any suggestions how any where to wrap a strap? I'm kinda thinking to
bloch up the assembly and bolt in some eyebolts where it mounts to the
My other thought is to just switch motors for now any needs pulleys
just to see how well it cuts.
Good buy--I have a 50's-vintage Unisaw, which I love. Unfortunately
they're not always as cheap as you might hope, especially if you want
to 'do it right'.
There's really no point in swapping internals. The old cabinet won't
have enough clearance for the new motor to tilt.
If you want the old saw, either find a single-phase 'bullet' (old-
style) motor or get a variable frequency drive (VFD) that has a single-
phase input and three-phase output.
I'd go with the drive--this one should work:
Some people cut the old cabinets to fit new motors--to me, doing that
destroys the 'vintage' value of the saw, which seems near-criminal--
just sell it to someone who will appreciate it and use the money to
get what you really want.
You'll also want to check for arbor wear before you spend any money,
just so you know what you're getting into--I think you can have the
arbor rebuilt for a couple hundred dollars.
Just install the new-style motor in the old cabinet--it'll work fine
as long as you don't try to tilt it more than a few degrees. I think
you'll be able to leave the new pulley on the new motor, and leave the
existing pulley on the arbor, but I don't have diameters handy, so
calculate those ratios before you start--I don't think you want the
blade turning at twice design speed.
I built a static phase converter using one of the phase converter configuration
instruction plans you can usually find for
free online. I have configured static phase converters for 3hp and 5hp
unisaws, usually they will fit into a metal
utility box about the size of a lunchbox. I try to use all "run" type
capacitors if possible as they are in metal cans vs
plastic for most "start" capacitors. Mount the box close to the regular on/off
switch and set it up so there is a
momentary contact switch in the converter that you hold in while turning on the
normal on switch, the phase converter
switch is released when the saw spins up, usually about 2-3 seconds. A good
source for all the caps and heavy duty
switches is surpluscenter.com. They also sell phase converters but IMHO too
expensive, given that static converters are
so simple to construct and the components used inexpensive and readily available
why not save money and build you're own.
The VFD is a great solution if you can find one that is less than the cost of
buying a new single phase replacement motor
and swapping out the 3 phase motor. Sometimes you can find them on ebay or
craigs list. Since there is no additional
cost justification for a (list price) VFD on a tablesaw, unlike a lathe, drill
press, or bandsaw where the capability of
varying the speed is an almost mandatory requirement, usually VFD's are a spendy
solution. VFD's usually are the
preferred choice when the issue involves a 1hp or less 3 phase to single phase
requirement economics (using new
components), unless one shops for a used single phase replacement motor which
seem to be more available and can even be
found at garage sales.
A final note on static phase converters: Using this approach you will only get
about 75% of the rated HP of the three
phase motor. However, in a busy shop with many different individuals using the
unisaws we did not ever have a situation
where the saw didn't have more than enough power for any task it was called upon
to accomplish, again this is using a 3hp
and a 5hp unisaw operating their (stock) 3 phase motors via static phase
converters on single phase power over a 3+ year
period. Good luck and best regards, Joe. (Feel free to email me should you
have additional questions as I don't always
have the time to keep up on my newsgroup reads.)
I say again, "yes". <*BIG* grin>
One can _never_ have too many Unisaws.
More seriously, how old, and how new? and in what condition? are they
identical in all other ways -- hp, fence, etc?
One last thing, trying to decide based on _color_ won't work.
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.