Old Plane Japaning

Has anyone done Japaning during old tool restoration? I just picked up an of old Stanley #3 and a #5 plane and have gotten all the rust off of both of them through electrolysis and am ready to restore the original finish. Is this something one can do in their shop? I've only seen one article about this subject and it doesn't seem overly complicated.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Mike,
I like you have been restoring old tools as a hobby, specifically planes.
I have been using the original Pontypool Asphaltum from a company by the name of Liberty on the Hudson. It costs 26 bucks a quart. A little goes a very long way. You will also need turpentine as you will need to thin out the asphaltum to a more workable viscosity.
I just finished a #8 and it looks great.
If you need to talk about it some more just email me.
HTH
rik
--

Padded room with a view
RWC3
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

That's convenient ! I travel all the way to Pontypool to brew it up from the original recipe of asphaltum and oils.
How do you use yours ? Do you stove it after application ?
BTW - recipe is at http://paranoia-towers.com/alchemy/pontypool.htm
-- Die Gotterspammerung - Junkmail of the Gods
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Andy,
The don't recommend stoving after application and I didn't. I just let it air dry for about a week and it turns out real nice.
rik
--

Padded room with a view
RWC3
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I had to find the link to "Liberty on the Hudson" so here it is for the rest of you. Everyone send me a quarter for my effort... http://www.libertyonthehudson.com/pontypool.htm
--
Larry C in Auburn, WA

"RikC" < snipped-for-privacy@verizon.net> wrote in message
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thank you Larry. I forgot to ad the link. My bad. :-)
Thanks again.
rik
--

Padded room with a view
RWC3
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks rik:
Thanks for the info, I'll get a quart of the stuff right away.
What got me started on the planes was that I found two of my dad's old Stanley's, a 4 and a 7 that badly needed restoration and we were off and running, now I have 5 waiting for further processing. I have a couple of questions:
1. Should I remove all of the old Japanning first or can you apply over the old finish?
2. I have read that you can use paint remover to get the old finish off, is this ok?
3. What solvent do you use to clean the metal before application?
4. Do you have any pics of your completed work?
Thanks,
Mike

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

I haven't done any japanning but have done some "Rustoleum"ing; Machinery Black with an artist brush if the plane is to be a user.
--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On 5-Nov-2003, snipped-for-privacy@fellspt.charm.net (Lawrence Wasserman) wrote:

I used spray Tremclad (gloss black and gloss red) on the Millers Falls #14 I just finished. Looks fine as a user, but it will never be a "genuine" antique.
Took several layers of crud (paint, varnish etc) off the tote and knob and sanded the result. Tung oil to finish. I've never seen so much oil soak into any wood - not sure what it is. The result, a mix of dark grain (well soaked-in paint etc) and clean wood has a nice visual texture and a "used" look.
I may offend the true affectionado with the result, but it's a nice looking workshop piece to me.
Mike
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Michael Daly wrote:

Yeah, screw'em anyway. Tools are for *using*.
--
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < snipped-for-privacy@users.sourceforge.net>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Silvan wrote:

Seems like a short-sighted view to me. I know that Rik uses his planes, I suspect that most of us do. We're talking about planes that go back 100 years or so and have been protected by their finish for A LONG time. I doubt that black paint will last a century, whereas I don't see any reason that the planes shouldn't go another century without any problems if cared for properly. Many of my tools are Civil War or before, the Stanleys being the youngsters. I certainly hope to pass them on in as good condition, if not better, as I got them. It isn't a question of appearance so much as one of quality. Dave in Fairfax
--
reply-to doesn't work
use:
daveldr at att dot net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

As a fellow collector myself, I am saddened you want to re-japan a collector. As I drift from place to place in search of completing my collections, a tear comes to my eye when I see a "restored" collectable. Cleaning up a collector is one thing but re-japanning??? argh. SH

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Different strokes for different folks!!!!!!!!!

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.