Old Craftsman RA Saw needs new table

I inherited an old Craftsman radial arm saw, with a table and fence that are in very poor condition. I need to get a replacement somehow before I can use this saw. Part of the problem is that I cannot locate a model number on the saw. I have looked all over the thing, and I just don't see it. There is a model number on the motor. Would a replacement table for a modern model fit my saw? Would I be better off trying to make my own table? Any other options that I should consider?

Reply to
GreenLight
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My Craftsman RAS is a 1970's model with a square metal table that the top sits on. On the left side of the metal table (as I face the saw) is a metal plate with the ser. # on it. Frankly, it seems the table that came with the saw was particle board and 7/8 to 1" think, although I don't remember for sure. At any rate some years ago I replaced it with some kind of 1" plus particleboard that has a melamine layer on top. For crosscutting I glued a maple wear strip in the top to keep ihe crosscut groove neater. If I replaced it again I'd probaly use MDF. Hope this helps. Jer

Reply to
Maskman

google asks:

Just make one. Pick up an appropriately sized chunk of 1" MDF at your local lumber yard, cut it into, IIRC, 4 pieces, with one about 2-1/2" tall for the fence, a back-of-fence board about 3" wide and another about half that, and the front table about 18" deep. Cut to table width--I'm not near one of the saws right now, but 30-36" seems right to me. Mount on the metal table frame, with the fence inserted 2-1/2" side vertically, in front of the two narrower boards. Test for fit and test saw for squareness, etc.

Charlie Self "Men stumble over the truth from time to time, but most pick themselves up and hurry off as if nothing happened." Sir Winston Churchill

Reply to
Charlie Self

The table is a piece of particle board. The fence is a piece of pine. Make one.

Reply to
CW

Probably making your own table is not a bad option. All you really need are some T-nuts and the old table as a pattern. I would glue two thicknesses together to get the thickness you want. My table is thicker than the ones on the saws now-a-days. The table has a screw assy in the middle to take the warp out of the table, but a mover busted mine 6 years ago and my table is nice and flat still. When you do put on a new table, I recommend using some 1/4" hardboard to protect the new table. My 30 year old table is still about as good as new on the top because I did that right away.

Reply to
Eric Anderson

Make your own. The table is nothing more than plywood or particle board (usually). Remove the old table & fence. The table is most likely in two pieces. Measure your old table(s)& cut another or others from similar material. A skill saw can be used to cut the tables & fence.--Mark your new wood for the bolt holes using the old table. Drill & countersink the bolt holes. Cut a new fence using the old one for a guide. Install the new table & fence in the reverse order that you took them apart. Test for fence squareness-- Usually, RAS have adjustments on the back side of the fence to move the fence back or forward to insure that the fence is square with the blade. The last one I redid required a shim between the fence & the adjuster because I had cut the small back part of the table small on one end. It could be more difficult, but I don't see how. Make sure you take note & make drawings of how you took this apart if you are new to this-- taking pictures with a digital camera during the process would be really helpful.

Reply to
Phil

I didn't bother with the small board stuff. Mine is 18' wide, set as far back as possible, almost against the blade. My fence sticks up about 1/2" above the table. My top is 1.5" particle board with 3/8 ply working surface.

I suggest you make the table 8' long, with about 3' left of the blade and a pair of legs under the right hand end. Then it's really easy to manage long pieces for ripping or crosscutting. When I was cutting big framing for my house, I had a 16' table.

You have to have the book to set the table in proper orientation to the carriage, unless you want to do a lot of observation before starting. Once the table is on, there are several steps to alignment.

These things have their limitations, but I wouldn't be without one! It's safer than a TS, IMHO, but still has plenty of ways to hurt you. The neat thing is that for most cuts you are away from the blade and for crosscuts your extra hand is firmly planted on the table.\

Sears used to sell a little book that gave instructions for many RAS operations. It's worth having.

Wilson

Reply to
Wilson

Two suggestions for your new RAS:

Purchase a copy of "How To Master The Radial Saw" by Wally Kunkel

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it's a complete guide to your RAS and make your new table to the design suggested in this book. It's a steel reinforced two layer table.

Good luck!

Reply to
Rumpty

Do a google search for "craftsman radial arm recall". Find your saw's serial number. Call or surf to the recall site and give them the serial number. Get a free new table and guard system delivered to your home in a couple of weeks. Install the new table. Cut a piece of anything flat about 3" to 4" wide and use for a fence. Done.

On the off chance that isn't one of the saws eligible for the recall, follow all the other suggestions to make a table.

Dave Hall

Reply to
David Hall

The original post didn't appear on my server so I'll jump in here.

Building a new table isn't difficult. I've posted a few photos of one that I built at

I built mine 8 inches wider than the original and like having that additional bit of work support.

Reply to
Morris Dovey

I found information about the recall, but it seemed to only relate to the blade guard. It doesn't say anything about the table. Here is a link to one of the recall notices:

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Reply to
GreenLight

Check out Ken Vaughn's website. Here is a link. It might help with some design aspects for your RAS.

Reply to
Brad Heidinger

Morris.. I like the size and look of your table..

WHat did you use for your fence? (type of wood, size, etc.)

I just picked up a very serviceable powercraft RAS for $50 at a garage sale and everything (saw/arm/motor components, stand, wheels, etc.) is in good shape after removing a few years worth of rust..

My project will be a new fence and table to replace the 1/2 plywood one that's badly warped, and any advice would be appreciated!

It's a different world, getting into RA after a lifetime of table saws, cutoff saws, etc., that all have steel tables... I thought at first that the blade was turning in the wrong direction, until I realized that I was looking at an "upside down table saw"..lol

Mac

Reply to
mac davis

the saw by about an inch they also send you a new table...

My old Craftsman saw is too old to qualify for the recall and is still worth more then 100 bucks to me (even though I have not moved it off a

90 degree cut in 25 years...so I did not "bite" for the recall..

Bob Griffiths

Reply to
Bob G.

both a new guard and a new table. The reason for the new table is that the new guard sticks out a little more than the old guard and thus requires the fence to be pushed a little further to the front and thus it is required to effectively install the new guard and meet the requirements of the recall.

Dave Hall

Reply to
David Hall

Thanks. When I replaced the table I was working in a 10-1/2 x 18' shop. I moved to a bigger shop and have been tempted several times to build an 8' table (so I can stop screwing around with roller stands).

It began life as a pine 1 x 4 - somehow ended up on the junk pile and got ripped to about 2" wide when I decided that the old fence was past due for retirement.

Good find. I bought my old Toolkraft on sale at Montgomery wards back in the early 70's - it was my first stationary tool. Never been sorry I bought it. I hope yours brings you as much satisfaction.

My old (original) table was MDF. FWIW, I like the 3/4 plywood better - and hope that it'll be less inclined to warp. If you have space, you might consider widening the table. That does seem to add convenience.

Someone here on the wRECk (Rumpty?) is more of a RAS affectionado than I - you might check with him for ideas...

(-: I avoided that by making the RAS my first tool. When I finally got around to getting my table saw I still wanted the /blade/ to move. Moving the workpiece seemed pretty risky...

Enjoy the new saw - and remember that the /blade/ moves.

Reply to
Morris Dovey

113.23111
Reply to
GreenLight

better - and hope that it'll be less inclined to warp. If you have space, you might consider widening the table. That does seem to add convenience.

Your best result for your efforts of replacing your top would be a two layer quality ply with steel inserts (which will keep the table FLAT) and a sacrificial 1/4" luan ply top.

I have posted a drawing of this top construction in ABPW. The fence should be a piece of 3/4" clear pine and should be considered disposable. Don't widen the top too much, It's better to use extension tables that are removable when required say when using the RAS for shaping or moulding.

Reply to
Rumpty

I knew it'd be a good idea to offer a referral to an expert (-:

It never crossed my mind to incorporate metal reinforcements into my top - as a result of your suggestion I may retrofit some angle reinforcements to the bottom of the table. If I get the design right I may be able to use the angle to provide attachment points for extension tables - I rather like that idea.

Shaping operations on the RAS made me sufficiently jittery that I added a shaper to the shop early on. At this point the RAS is used primarily to shorten long boards and (rarely) to cut compound miters. I suspect that at least one of the table extensions will become more or less permanent.

Thanks!

Reply to
Morris Dovey

thanks to Morris & Rumpty... THe old table (actually a "new" table that was never used) was 36" x

30" and very strange... they mounted it flush to the steel table frame with the risers all the way down, which not only warped it, but made the height crank useless until I took the saber saw to it..lol

I'm glad that you both mentioned a "disposable" fence of pine.. i work with a lot of pine but a few folks in the neighborhood say that it should be hardwood... seems a waste of good hardwood!

I'm going with the overkill method for the table... using 1 1/8 floor material that should be pretty warp free.. The table top will be 48"x24" this time with the table offset to the left for the extra foot... it seems odd to me that most RAS table tops are centered on the table frame, when the blade runs so far to the left of the arm...

I was going to go with an 8' x 24" table, but decided that I wouldn't have room for that... unless I decided to never close the garage door.. Using the 1 1/8 material and a 1/4 plywood facing, (plus a little bit of furring for adjustment), I should be able to have the RAS table the exact height of my bench, giving me an extra 6' of table on the right or "feed" side of the table..

damn, reading this, I sound like I know what I'm talking about!! actually just summing up some good advice gathered here and on the web..

thanks again!

Mac

Reply to
mac davis

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