OK, I Give Up

Recently acquired a Jet, 12" Dovetail jig.
Assembled per instructions (The reference pictures were a must).
Have 1/2" template which specs a 1/2"@14 degree bit and a 7/16" pilot bushing.
No problem.
Before plugging router into power, decide to mechanically check things out.
Houston, we have a problem.
Want to thru dovetail some 1/2" stock, but if I do, will bottom out bit on steel base on which the stock rests.
No place to install some waste material, so what is the solution?
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

Could ya run this past us again,what do ya mean?

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Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




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The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:

I think I'm getting the picture now?
The top middle clamp is where the Horizontal stock slides under and the stock goes halfway under the comb(finger plate)then the Vertical piece butts up against the Horizontal stock edge.
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Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite




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Lew Hodgett wrote:

Ummm....not to put too fine a point on this, but this jig is for half-blind dovetails, not through dovetails.
If you want to make through dovetails, I can enthusiastically recommend the "pins and tails" jig from MLCS.
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Gus wrote:

As far as I can make out this is the same jig and it can do straight through joints. http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pricing=INC&pf_id !752&
If the Horizontal stock is enough forward of the comb it will cut straight through joint.
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degree bit and a 7/16" pilot

No, you have to also buy the template for through dovetails and install in place of the blind template.
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Toller wrote:

How do work that out? the one I posted does not have any other template other than the one it comes with plus an optional replacement of the same comb if needed
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degree bit and a 7/16"

You are right that it will only do one kind of dovetail. Specifically a "lap dovetail". I am not absolutely sure (all I could find were "half lap dovetails", never "lap dovetails") but I think those are what we would call half blind dovetails, rather than through dovetails. The template for through dovetails is very different.
You are in the UK? I just got a book on wood out of the library written in England. About one third of it is on Australian and New Zealand woods I have never heard of. Are they commonly used there?
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On Sun, 08 Oct 2006 01:39:23 GMT, "The3rd Earl Of Derby"

Actually the item is this one
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
and if you read it says half blind.
But Lew could some quater inch scrap on top and do half blind dovetails.
Mark (sixoneeight) = 618
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Gus wrote:

Couldn't he cut the through joints with two pieces of stock vertically together and put a scrap piece of stock horizontaly to save splintering of the back piece?
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Gus wrote:
> > Ummm....not to put too fine a point on this, but this jig is for > half-blind dovetails, > not through dovetails. >
Many thanks to all who responded.
As Gus indicates and the instructions confirm, this is a half-blind dovetail jig.
When I bought the unit, I assumed, without giving it any thought, that if it makes half-blind dovetails it will make thru dovetails.
What's that old bit about assuming?
NBD, it is now time for plan "B".
The drawer fronts will get half-blind dovetails, the backs will now get box joints rather than thru dovetails, so all is not lost.
Again, thanks to all.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

Yes but you can still get through dovetails by putting two pieces together zigzaged vertically and go all the way through. However you need some waste stock at the back to reduce splintering.
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Huh? Can't picture what you are talking about here. Seems you need a spacer on the front (to take the space normally occupied by the portion of the drawer front not cut, and a longer comb to keep from rounding over the insides of the tails.
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Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

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Don't give up your fun is just beginning. What you have I believe is a Blue Monster dovetail jig. It is intended to cut half blind joints. Templates are available which have pitches of 7/16", 1/2", and 9/16". The same 7/16" bushing and 14 degree bit will work with all three templates. With some minor modification you can cut very nice fitting half blind dovetails. If you want to cut through dovetails the Blue Monster can be used but it takes a bit more modification to do through dovetails and you will need different bits and you will need to make your own tails templates and pin templates. I use my Blue Monster almost exclusively to cut through dovetails. Once you get set up they are easy to do and you have much greater flexibility as to size and spacing. Earl Creel
degree bit and a 7/16" pilot

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Looks a lot like the one from Rockler. Almost identical.
degree bit and a 7/16" pilot

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degree bit and a 7/16" pilot

Like a few others have mentioned, the jig is for half blind DT's
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

I've just borrowed and used one these type of DJigs.
And I can undoubtably say...they're a piece of junk,too much faffing about setting up the clamping system and aligning the wood. Time taken setting up and clamping wood 5to6 minutes.
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The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote:
> And I can undoubtably say...they're a piece of junk,too much faffing about > setting up the clamping system and aligning the wood. > Time taken setting up and clamping wood 5to6 minutes.
Have just finished doing a dovetail job using the recently purchased Jet Dovetail Jig.
All went well.
Cutting the dovetails into the final stock was actually very straight forward and went quickly; however, getting a new jig set up properly is quite a challenge.
Have lots of scrap to make test cuts as well as the patience of Job while doing it.
The actual Jet Dovetail Jig is quite well built.
Proper application is rather complex.
Keep the instructions handy during set-up.
Lew
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