Off-center router base

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LOL..or carpet.
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Robatoy said:

Hmm.. Me thinks that would certainly result in the tool being disposed of fairly quickly. It and the 3' section of thread pulls. Not to mention the broken wrist.
Greg G.
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Yohoooo!!! A hole-cutter FREEHAND!!!
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... and since I still have all ten, one-off is not option for me.
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Ten routers? Nice. In any case... I would just get the virgin base mounted with the mounting holes however you can do it. Cut a center hole through the center on the base with a 1/4 or 1/2" plunge bit. Remove base (or leave it mounted and use one of you other ten routers in the table). Use a centering bit or 1/4 or 1/2" stock as a guide pin to spin the base (mounted or unmounted) to cut a perfect circle.
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-MIKE-

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Fingers, Mike...fingers. Work with me here...
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Robatoy wrote:

Tryptophan coma.
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-MIKE-

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On 11/26/2009 12:43 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

I just plunged an actual router bit through the base to cut the hole in my replacement base. Perfectly centered by definition. :)
Chris
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Chris Friesen wrote:

How do you know it's the center point. If the base is mounted perfectly centered, the hole you plunge with not be.
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-MIKE-

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On 11/27/2009 12:06 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

For use with guide bushings I don't care if the hole is perfectly centered on the base....I care that the hole is perfectly concentric with the bit. By making the hole with a bit in the router, you get that by definition.
Chris
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Chris Friesen wrote:

I know the OP had stated that be was trying to center the bushing, but we had taken a tangent, discussing how to get a round base perfectly centered with the bit.
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-MIKE-

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On 11/27/2009 01:13 PM, -MIKE- wrote:

One possibility would be to use a trammel bar of the same radius as the base plate. This gets attached to some bar stock that is chucked up in the collet and threaded internally. When the edge of the trammel bar is aligned with the edge of the base plate all the way around, you're centered.
If you get close when drilling your holes through the base and use pan-head screws, you'll have a bit of wiggle room to get it perfectly aligned.
Chris
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Chris Friesen wrote:

I have a compass scribe that is already configured in a manner you describe. The point's is held in a round cast section that might be 1/4" diameter, which would chuck-up in the router.
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-MIKE-

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To make a base plate to match an existing router, I used a dowel pin in the target router, and a matching-diameter carbide bit in the primary router.
With a raw phenolic plate attached to the target with three flathead screws in countersinked holes (which is self-centering after remounting), I first used the target router to drill a center hole, then chucked the steel dowel in the target and routed the edge of the plate with the primary router, with the dowel as my guide. I did a rough cut with a bit of brass tube over the dowel, then removed that tube and made the finish cut.
Hmmm. If I chucked the dowel in a holesaw's pilot, maybe I could make a stepped hole in the base suitable for router guides?
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Larry wrote:

I made a recess for pan head screws and slightly enlarged the holes, then made a tool to put in the chuck and automatically center the base then tighten the screws. See pictures in ABPW.
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Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
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Gerald Ross wrote:

For those who haven't yet looked at this, it is well worth the look. Very clever -- Gerald, this is something that seems to be marketable.
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There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage

Rob Leatham
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somebody post them to the web, already. :-)
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-MIKE-

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Mark & Juanita wrote:

I had it made for my own use and liked it so I sent drawings and pictures to Lee Valley. They researched it and found something like it already on the market somewhere.
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Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
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There are several. Milescraft makes one version.
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My Bosch router came with an aluminium one. Now if the router were only bump resistant. This is the second time it won't turn on after dropping on the floor ...
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Best regards
Han
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