Not many wood posts, here's one

I found some decent poplar at a decent price locally (central Florida). I'm working on my screen porch and need a molding at the top to hide the juncture of wall drywall (new) and ceiling drywall (done long ago). The poplar will be it so I'm off to my shop to join an edge, rip and surface.

Boring post? Yeah, but at least I'm chopping wood :)

Reply to
dadiOH
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Be sure to prime and paint that piece as poplar does not hold up well out doors especially if it is humid.

Reply to
Leon

On 8/19/2009 7:06 AM dadiOH spake thus:

Boring? No, ripping good, I'd say!

[boom-TISH]
Reply to
David Nebenzahl

Refreshing. Thx.

Just bought some poplar myself but no idea if it was good price or not. Forgot to look. It also is for a home project. I am building a fireplace surround with fluted columns, etc and mantle to hide badly done brick work (not mine, it came that way). I am building it mostly out of MDF but thought the actual mantel shelf should be real wood to stand up a little better. Yeah poplar is soft but it will hold up better than MDF would and it won't take much abuse.

It all gets painted white when I am done.

The ma> I found some decent poplar at a decent price locally (central Florida). = =A0I'm

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

The main reason I am excited about this project is I am going to buy a Bosch 1250DEVS 6 amp orbital sander to sand the paint off of the bricks that will be left exposed. I have been jonsing for one of these monster sanders for a long time and I found a local tool supply house that has them in stock. I have a few other projects lined up for this bad boy as well.

Hopefully you don't have paint in the joints.

Reply to
Leon

Yes I do and I have a couple of ideas about that.

  1. Try using the edge of the sander pad. The joints are standard width, probably close to 1/2" or more and the grout wasn't wiped to be to deep.

  1. If this is only partly succesfull or not succesfull, I'll make a bullnosed sanding block and try by hand.

  2. Try paint remover

  1. Try wire brush attachment on corder drill

  2. Grout over roughed up but not totally removed paint

  1. Paint the grout lines gray.

I did a test sand> The main reason I am excited about this project is I am going to buy a

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

I like these three. Alternatively, get a cat and tell s/he, "NEVER SCRATCH HERE!" :) ____________

Argggg...

Reply to
dadiOH

  1. Sand Blast?
Reply to
Scott Lurndal

there is a sand blaster that can be used in this situation. it has both a blaster and a vacuum, so the dust/residue go elsewhere instead of into the local atmosphere. you do need a hepa filter on whatever you're using to suck though.

dags 'vacuum sand blaster'

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Reply to
charlie

WHITE PAINT on a fireplace surround?

Reply to
HeyBub

Yep. Works fine if it's a good fireplace. Unfortunately what passes for a fireplace today would get the builder ridden out of town on a rail in the

1700s.
Reply to
J. Clarke
  1. Try using the edge of the sander pad. The joints are standard width, probably close to 1/2" or more and the grout wasn't wiped to be to deep.

I would not suggest that, it will probably ruin the pad.

  1. If this is only partly succesfull or not succesfull, I'll make a bullnosed sanding block and try by hand.

Keep in mind that the grout is going to be very porus and the paint probably soaked in quite a bit. You will probably have to go in relatively deep.

  1. Try paint remover

You might try that on all surfaces, there are some pretty effective and environmentally safe ones out there. IIRC the WoodWorking shows has a vendor selling such a product, soy bean based IIRC. You might doa search on the

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site.

  1. Try wire brush attachment on corder drill

I believe that will damage the edges of the brick, too hard to hold in the slot perfectly.

  1. Grout over roughed up but not totally removed paint

Probably a better idea.

  1. Paint the grout lines gray.

Probably the best idea but do that before sanding any of the brick faces or you may find your self sanding again. ;~(

I did a test sand> The main reason I am excited about this project is I am going to buy a

Reply to
Leon

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

J. Clarke wrote,on my timestamp of 20/08/2009 11:15 PM:

Probably mentioning something you're already aware of, but aren't you concerned with MDF giving off fumes when heated by the fireplace? I can't remember off-hand which chemical (formaldehyde?), but I know it's not very healthy. The painting might help contain it, maybe?

Reply to
Noons

Never really thought about it. I do know that MDF supposedly off gasses formaldyhide (sp?) for a while when new but I didn't think it was forever. Wasn't sure if the newer manufacturing process has eleminated that or if you have to buy special non-formaldi type. Also didn't know that heating it would elevate the effect but it makes sense. Yes it will be painted. Maybe that helps. I also don't think it will really get too much heat, it is back from the opening a bit and I don't plan to have any bonfires.

Last winter here in California, my first in this new house, I didn't even use it for a fire. I will use it this year, at least when entertaining.

If I die or get cancer, I guess I post a warning here.

On a related note to this thread, I ended up using jasoc paint stripper for the face of the bricks and a wire wheel to clean the grout lines of the painted brick. I planned to go all the way to clean brick but there were several layers of different colored paint white, and two different reds and then the lightest red is the brick itself. Plus some carbon deposits on the bricks just above the opening. By just removing 85% of the coverage I ended up with the greatest looking distressed brick. Better than I could ever have planned for.

I'll post pics once I finishing triming and painting the surround.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

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