Im thinking of some things I'd like to build in the near future and I was
wondering the costs of them.
One big one is Norm's router table or a similar design. I realize there
will be design changes and choice of wood, but you can probably ballpark it
for me. If you've built his plan or a similar one, how much did it cost and
what kind of wood did you use?
Mine isn't Norm's though it is similar. I used a BenchDog top and fence and
built the cabinet myself. While it is one of the most useful tools in my
shop, it was also surprisingly expensive. You can read my Router Table
story on my site www.philsfun.com
Best Regards, Phil
Not to exceed $200.00
The hardware will be more than you think.
BTW, if I had to build it again, I'd use "B" grade Appleply in 4x8 sheets.
That's the stuff you use to build jigs and fixtures.
Definitely NOT a Home Depot item.
The table is the small part. A router lift, a big router, fence goodies
and quality bits all add up over time. It's a sneeky tool.
My woodworking neighbor, who has the full Incra setup, was musing about
Jointech's latest. I think he's used his router table twice in the last 10
It can become an end in itself.
About $300. I used various kinds of wood, mostly cabinet-grade ply.
The drawer fronts and trim I used white oak with dogwood turned knobs.
Some of the wood I used from pallet wood. There's a lot of misc parts
building the router table. I used 1/4" thick Plexiglas instead of the
thinner stuff and it is held in place with magnet catches. I handcut
the dovetails in all the drawers just for practice. Took me 6 weeks+
to build but fun.
On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 23:19:57 GMT, "Mike W."
Don't sweat that part. The village is solvent.
The president was arrested on campaign fund issues (t'was
less that a couple hunnert (US)) but really I like to think
that someone put the kibosh on his delusions of grandeur.
By the way, what do the software do?
Municipal accounting software. About as boring as software gets, unless you
get our special "Embezzlement" add-on... Reasonable prices on that module,
based on a percentage. But cash only, in advance.
I built mine a couple years ago so my memory of the cost is
vague but it must have been $200 or a little less. I bought the table
top/fence from the Rockler local store in San Diego and used less than
one sheet of 3/4" oak ply from Home Depot. Probably not the best
rendition of the plan but it works great for me. Heavy thing though. I
added two wheels to the back so I can lift the front and roll it
around a bit. If I'm at an unlevel spot on the shop floor I kick a
shim under the gap and it's completely stable. For the switch I
scavenged the switch assembly from my Jet D/C when I converted it to
220V and controled with an X10 heavy duty switch module and keyfob
On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 23:19:57 GMT, "Mike W."
plywood $ 60 two sheets
mdf $ 36 one sheet
PC 7518 $300
Jessum Lift $250
Hinges $ 9
plexiglas $ 20
Switch $ 23
Misc $ 50
and my laminate for the top was FREEEEEEEE
so..... $748 ....holy crap....who knew ???
Of course if you build it and not use the
lift or the router, it's MUCH cheaper...
Mike W. wrote:
You can build the carcass of the table with a single sheet of 3/4"
plywood. If you use cabinet grade birch from the BORG it will run you
You can get the switch he used on the latest one for $25 from Rockler. I
used that one because it has a positive on/off after I accidentally
flicked a toggle switch a couple of times. "Professional" versions of
the switch like you see are north of $100.
You may also be able to build the drawers and bit holders from the
remains of the plywood. Then you'll need something to face the drawers
and bit holders. I used scrap poplar so it was free. You probably also
want to face the plywood edges. I used hot glue strips sold w/ the
plywood at the BORG for $5.
You can probably scrounge a free piece of plexiglass for the door, but
the plumbing fittings for the dust collection are probably in the
neighborhood of $20 with the hose, etc.
My top was a double piece of 3/4" MDF that I laminated and edged myself.
Figure about $40-$60 dollars here. An alternative (that I used on an
earlier table) was to visit a kitchen/cabinet shop and ask for a couple
of their sink cutouts. If you get a couple of double sink remnants (free
since they're only going to chuck them anyway) and glue them together,
you get a pretty nice top, then pick the side whose laminate pattern you
like best as the table top :-)
Where you'll drop the serious change is on the fence if you buy a
commercial one and on the table insert (ignoring the router). You can
make a fence like Norm and save lots of $. If you're just looking for an
aluminum or phenolic table insert, they're around $50 at the woodworking
outlets. They're nice because they typically have multiple ring inserts
for different bit sizes and sometimes a pin insert for non-fence routing
of odd-shaped pieces. My first insert was a 3/8" piece of plexiglass I
got for free at an auto glass shop. It worked fine for years until I got
a bigger router. The miter gauge track inserts aren't much money.
I'd disagree with the comment that you won't use the router table much.
I do 90+% of my router work on the table. There's more control, it's
safer, quieter and I get better results because you can use feather
If you've got a table saw, consider bagging the separate router table
and putting the router table as part of your table saw platform. This
will save you space, add table space, you'll be able to use your table
saw fence and save you a hefty chunk of cash. This is particularly
attractive if you've got a contractor-type saw where this addition is
straightforward and access to the router isn't an issue.
Hope this helps.
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