Norms Router Table Cost?

Hi Everyone.
Im thinking of some things I'd like to build in the near future and I was wondering the costs of them.
One big one is Norm's router table or a similar design. I realize there will be design changes and choice of wood, but you can probably ballpark it for me. If you've built his plan or a similar one, how much did it cost and what kind of wood did you use?
Thanks.
Mike W.
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Plywood used for base and drawers. Plywood top 2 layers and laminate both sides. Oak trim boards, electrical hook-ups and fence. Around $100 + $10 for plans.
Tim

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Mine isn't Norm's though it is similar. I used a BenchDog top and fence and built the cabinet myself. While it is one of the most useful tools in my shop, it was also surprisingly expensive. You can read my Router Table story on my site www.philsfun.com
Best Regards, Phil

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"Mike W." writes:

Not to exceed $200.00
The hardware will be more than you think.
BTW, if I had to build it again, I'd use "B" grade Appleply in 4x8 sheets.
That's the stuff you use to build jigs and fixtures.
Definitely NOT a Home Depot item.
HTH
Lew
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The table is the small part. A router lift, a big router, fence goodies and quality bits all add up over time. It's a sneeky tool.
My woodworking neighbor, who has the full Incra setup, was musing about Jointech's latest. I think he's used his router table twice in the last 10 months.
It can become an end in itself.
Patriarch
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About $300. I used various kinds of wood, mostly cabinet-grade ply. The drawer fronts and trim I used white oak with dogwood turned knobs. Some of the wood I used from pallet wood. There's a lot of misc parts building the router table. I used 1/4" thick Plexiglas instead of the thinner stuff and it is held in place with magnet catches. I handcut the dovetails in all the drawers just for practice. Took me 6 weeks+ to build but fun.
On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 23:19:57 GMT, "Mike W."

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Does any one have a link to Norm's table. Or any cool table. I need to build one soon. max

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www.newyankee.com has the plans for sale - project 0301, plans are $10.95
John

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max wrote:

Don't have a link to Norm's table but I can supply one to a "cool" table.
http://www.woodcentral.com/shots/shot666.shtml
UA100
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Hey, I didn't know you were in Menomonee Falls! We just sold our software to the town there...
Clint

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Clint wrote:

Before or after the village president was arrested?
UA100
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Dunno about that. Hope our check has cleared...
Clint

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Clint wrote:

Don't sweat that part. The village is solvent.
The president was arrested on campaign fund issues (t'was less that a couple hunnert (US)) but really I like to think that someone put the kibosh on his delusions of grandeur.
By the way, what do the software do?
UA100
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Municipal accounting software. About as boring as software gets, unless you get our special "Embezzlement" add-on... Reasonable prices on that module, based on a percentage. But cash only, in advance.
Clint

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Nice table----question----where is the fence and mitre slot?
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Hi Mike,     I built mine a couple years ago so my memory of the cost is vague but it must have been $200 or a little less. I bought the table top/fence from the Rockler local store in San Diego and used less than one sheet of 3/4" oak ply from Home Depot. Probably not the best rendition of the plan but it works great for me. Heavy thing though. I added two wheels to the back so I can lift the front and roll it around a bit. If I'm at an unlevel spot on the shop floor I kick a shim under the gap and it's completely stable. For the switch I scavenged the switch assembly from my Jet D/C when I converted it to 220V and controled with an X10 heavy duty switch module and keyfob remote.
Bill
On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 23:19:57 GMT, "Mike W."

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Let's see....
plywood $ 60 two sheets mdf $ 36 one sheet PC 7518 $300 Jessum Lift $250 Hinges $ 9 plexiglas $ 20 Switch $ 23 Misc $ 50
and my laminate for the top was FREEEEEEEE
so..... $748 ....holy crap....who knew ???
Of course if you build it and not use the lift or the router, it's MUCH cheaper...
Mike W. wrote:

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Mike W. wrote:

You can build the carcass of the table with a single sheet of 3/4" plywood. If you use cabinet grade birch from the BORG it will run you about $40.
You can get the switch he used on the latest one for $25 from Rockler. I used that one because it has a positive on/off after I accidentally flicked a toggle switch a couple of times. "Professional" versions of the switch like you see are north of $100.
You may also be able to build the drawers and bit holders from the remains of the plywood. Then you'll need something to face the drawers and bit holders. I used scrap poplar so it was free. You probably also want to face the plywood edges. I used hot glue strips sold w/ the plywood at the BORG for $5.
You can probably scrounge a free piece of plexiglass for the door, but the plumbing fittings for the dust collection are probably in the neighborhood of $20 with the hose, etc.
My top was a double piece of 3/4" MDF that I laminated and edged myself. Figure about $40-$60 dollars here. An alternative (that I used on an earlier table) was to visit a kitchen/cabinet shop and ask for a couple of their sink cutouts. If you get a couple of double sink remnants (free since they're only going to chuck them anyway) and glue them together, you get a pretty nice top, then pick the side whose laminate pattern you like best as the table top :-)
Where you'll drop the serious change is on the fence if you buy a commercial one and on the table insert (ignoring the router). You can make a fence like Norm and save lots of $. If you're just looking for an aluminum or phenolic table insert, they're around $50 at the woodworking outlets. They're nice because they typically have multiple ring inserts for different bit sizes and sometimes a pin insert for non-fence routing of odd-shaped pieces. My first insert was a 3/8" piece of plexiglass I got for free at an auto glass shop. It worked fine for years until I got a bigger router. The miter gauge track inserts aren't much money.
I'd disagree with the comment that you won't use the router table much. I do 90+% of my router work on the table. There's more control, it's safer, quieter and I get better results because you can use feather boards, etc.
If you've got a table saw, consider bagging the separate router table and putting the router table as part of your table saw platform. This will save you space, add table space, you'll be able to use your table saw fence and save you a hefty chunk of cash. This is particularly attractive if you've got a contractor-type saw where this addition is straightforward and access to the router isn't an issue.
Hope this helps.
~Mark.
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