nitrocellulose lacquer over stain


I would like to spray nitrocellulose lacquer over Oil stain. Any compatability issues? The stain is now 24 hrs dry. Thanks
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
If used car finishes on furniture, and I've also sprayed a dozen cars with lacquer. The general principle is that the "hottest" finish cannot be on top.
Lacquer (and Lacq thinner) are the hottest finishes around and will "lift" compounds under it if they are less volatile.
One way around this is to spray a sealer first, let dry thoroughly, and then use the lacquer. I would try this on a piece of scap wood.
Incompatible finishes might look OK for weeks and then begin to checker or peel.
Gary Curtis
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

If you have prolems with the above try using shellac instead of a laquer sealer ,then the laquer finish coats .
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Whadday mean 'oil' stain?
I have sprayed bezillions of gallons of lacquer on stains like Minwax and such... they're oil based. Not a problem.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Sorry for the term "oil stain" I am a Hardwood floor refinisher, and we call it oil stain. It is Pittsburg paints Gunstock stain. I use it to match hardwood floor stains. It is highly pigmented. I put this into sanding sealer for the first wash coat. Then sanded it with 220 grit. It is over ASH. Then stained with Gunstock. Dried two days by now.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
<tdevery> wrote in

I wouldn't think that you would have a problem with stain, but you may want to try a test piece first. Today I sprayed lacquer on a walnut picture frame that I had coated last week with Medium Walnut Watco oil (I like the color it gives). No problems at all.
-G
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
<tdevery> wrote in message

compatability
No problems. Most high end guitars are finished exactly this way. Just know that nitro does not harden for a really long time and can "rub up" a little bit with use. It's not a problem in any way, but don't be alarmed if you encounter it. I had an electric guitar custom made a while ago and it was nitro finished. I used to get a little gumming on the neck after playing it for a while. The gumming rubbed off with a dry rag and all was well, but it is a characteristic of nitro. After a while this went away, as the nitro cured completely.
--

-Mike-
snipped-for-privacy@alltel.net
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thanks for your help. I feel comfortable going out to the shop and shooting my project The laquer is Coranado White Laquer. I will be doing it with an HLVP sprayer. I believe I have to cut it up to 50% And I do plan on shooting sample boards first.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 24 Dec 2005 18:46:42 -0600, <tdevery> wrote:

A barrier coat of Seal Coat couldn't hurt.
Barry
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Barry: Sealcoat is something I am VERY familiar with. I use it on flooring work. Love that I can apply waterborne or oil poly over it. I guess one very thin brushed on coat, then lightly scuff with a maroon scotch brite pad. Then spray on lacquer
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.