Nitrocellulose lacquer over an oil?

[Brent]

Hi Folk,

I Love Nitrocellulose (NC) because it dries fast and gives wood incredible life, unlike anything else I have used, looks like you can see right into the grain. Add to that it is easy to repair etc. etc. etc.

I have a piece that I am making out of walnut and want to oil it to give some depth to the grain and to darken the colour. Can I use NC lacquer over an oil? (something like teak oil or similar is what I was thinking of using.)

be interested as to what the team thinks...

Thanks Brent

[dadiOH]

Not having spray gear, the only lacquer I use is Deft. The instructions say it can be used over *thoroughly* dried oil and I have done so, NP.

[nailshooter41]

SNIP

instructions say it can be used over >*thoroughly* dried oil and I have done so, NP.

Ahhhh.... the much maligned Deft. I started as a full time woodoworker in '75, and it has been around a lot longer than that. I still use it today on occasion if I am called on to finish small projects (cabinets) or interior doors.

That has to be the most forgiving, applicator friendly finish around that will give great results. I have switched to the Old Master's brand of lacquer now due to its higher solid content, but wouldn't hesistate to use a can of Deft when needed.

I built a desk a few years ago that I pretreated to highlight the grain with a homebrew of shellac, real turps, tung oil and BLO. I got that recipe from some furniture maker.... I finished the desk with about three coats of Deft, ONLY sanding out nibs. Remember with lacquer, scuff coats are not needed and they can cause more problems if you scratch your surface.

When I spray Deft (or any other lacquer) I usually spray, wait about forty five minutes, then spray again. Then I wait about an hour and a half, then spray again. Then about 2 hours, then spray again. I dont' usually spray more than 3 - 4 coats in a day (unless I am using my purpose made high dollar stuff) as you can build too fast and get some blushing. Beware that if you put 3 - 4 coats on the piece, you should leave it for a few days to cure out before a installing the piece or a lot of handling takes place.

When I brush or pad, I apply a coat, then wait two hours, then apply another. I wait about three or four before applying the third coat. If it feels soft or even the slightest bit plastic I wait longer. For sure with pad or brush, no more than three coats in a day.

Anyway, do what dadiOH said, let your oil pretreat/enhancer dry completely (one week to be sure, less if you are in a hurry) then the Deft will adhere fine.

Robert

[Swingman]

You need to write a book, Robert. AAMOF, I've got so many of your posts saved, it would probably write itself.

I'd buy the first copy ... like clamps, you can't have too many Charlie Self around here anyway. :)

[nailshooter41]

saved, it would probably write itself.

Wow... thanks! That's very flattering coming from a cabinet maker of your caliber. Don't get me started... I might post more!

Actually, I think I have said it before, but I didn't want to learn much about finishing. But long ago, I laughed pretty hard when the best finisher I knew told me to "never trust a finisher that isn't an alcoholic".

How prophetic.

Maybe it's the fumes.

When I had enough, I got after the learning curve, and realized it is every bit as much as science or art as anything else. I have said it before, good finishing is easy, great finishing is a long curve. Something to strive for. It is always just a little bit of trip into the unknown.

Now it appeals to the "wonk" side of me. I really enjoy learning about new techniques (and old!) and new finishes.

Anyway, I appreciate the compliment and I am pleased if my comments help they guys on the group.

Robert