Am in the planning stages of a couple night stands and was wondering if for
a particular size if there was a rule of thumb for the leg width and frame
width. Don't want to get to wide or to narrow for the size of the stand.
Plans with dim's aren't that expensive, so I guess I could get a set of
plans and just modify it to what I want. Rather not if I don't have to, so
see what you all suggest first. Thanks for your advice.
I'll post a picture on APBW of the bedside tables I completed recently.
The leg stock I used there was 8/4 maple, thicknessed to about 1.75".
These are quite sturdy, and sturdy looking, which was part of the design
goal. There were no curves or tapers in the leg portion, which may change
the way you undertake your design.
Patriarch replies with this message and pics in the binary group:
Your night stands look great! I've drawn up some plans that are *very*
similar to yours. I plan to use mine in the family room next to my
recliner. I'm leaving the bottom shelf open (i.e. no door) so I can slide
my laptop in when not in use. Anyway, I was wondering if you could tell me
more about the joinery you used for the shelf. It's not quite clear what
you did and I haven't decided how I'm going to do it. It almost looks like
your panels meet in the corners and I'm guessing you used cleats underneath
the shelf that are attached to the lower rails. Also, are the panels
attached so that they meet in the corners?
near Memphis, TN
My wife keeps a small tape measure in her handbag. We go to a store, see
something that we like, I make a quick crude sketch and take a few
dimensions. I've also scaled dimensions from photographs in catalogs.
You'd be amazed at how well that works.
After all that, it comes down to personal taste. Do you want elegant tapered
legs or hefty pillars?
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