Am in the planning stages of a couple night stands and was wondering if for a particular size if there was a rule of thumb for the leg width and frame width. Don't want to get to wide or to narrow for the size of the stand. Plans with dim's aren't that expensive, so I guess I could get a set of plans and just modify it to what I want. Rather not if I don't have to, so see what you all suggest first. Thanks for your advice.
"Paul O." wrote in news:9cl4e.8964$ snipped-for-privacy@newssvr21.news.prodigy.com:
I'll post a picture on APBW of the bedside tables I completed recently. The leg stock I used there was 8/4 maple, thicknessed to about 1.75". These are quite sturdy, and sturdy looking, which was part of the design goal. There were no curves or tapers in the leg portion, which may change the way you undertake your design.
Patriarch
Patriarch wrote in news:Xns962EB5C0328BDpatriarchatcomcastdo@216.196.97.136:
Patriarch replies with this message and pics in the binary group:
Patriarch,
Your night stands look great! I've drawn up some plans that are *very* similar to yours. I plan to use mine in the family room next to my recliner. I'm leaving the bottom shelf open (i.e. no door) so I can slide my laptop in when not in use. Anyway, I was wondering if you could tell me more about the joinery you used for the shelf. It's not quite clear what you did and I haven't decided how I'm going to do it. It almost looks like your panels meet in the corners and I'm guessing you used cleats underneath the shelf that are attached to the lower rails. Also, are the panels attached so that they meet in the corners?
Thanks,
~Jeff near Memphis, TN
My wife keeps a small tape measure in her handbag. We go to a store, see something that we like, I make a quick crude sketch and take a few dimensions. I've also scaled dimensions from photographs in catalogs. You'd be amazed at how well that works.
After all that, it comes down to personal taste. Do you want elegant tapered legs or hefty pillars?
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