newbie question. . .

about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, = exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches = the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The = situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with = less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the = saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade = be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the = nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full = nut. What is the solution?=20 TIA

--=20 SwampBug

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Reply to
SwampBug
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That is exactly what you're "meant" to do. I say that in quotes, because there is no other way to do it safely. Using the nut alone without the washer is perfectly fine. You need to get the nut at least several threads onto the arbor, and tighten it down sufficiently. The safety issue with using the washer and having the nut not seated properly is a LOT worse than not having the washer - which only serves to offer a bit of stability to the blade and doesn't keep the blade in place.

Mike

-- SwampBug

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Reply to
Mike in Mystic

"SwampBug" wrote in news:m2g2e.2391$Qz.567@okepread05:

If you're uncomfortable with leaving the washer off, it might be time to consider a router, or cutting the dado in multiple passes on your saw.

If a process makes you nervous, don't do it. There are a lot of ways to cut rabbets & dados. Keep all you body parts as factory installed.

Patriarch

Reply to
Patriarch

Thank you, , ,acceptable procedure is what i needed to know!

--=20 SwampBug

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Mike

-- SwampBug

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Reply to
SwampBug

I use a router and dado bits when and where i can. There are times when = the saw is a better solution. I now know how to do it safely. Thanks for = your reply.

--=20 SwampBug

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If you're uncomfortable with leaving the washer off, it might be time to =

consider a router, or cutting the dado in multiple passes on your saw.

If a process makes you nervous, don't do it. There are a lot of ways to =

cut rabbets & dados. Keep all you body parts as factory installed.

Patriarch

Reply to
SwampBug

To be accurate, you know one person's opinion on what you should/can do, based on your description of what you're trying to accomplish. Personally, I take anything I learn on the Net from anonymous strangers with a grain of salt, and try to use my common sense as well. I'd probably phone the Delta toll free number (from

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with your model number and the size of the dado blade you're trying to set up, and see what they say.

BTW, I'm not trying to say Mike in Mystic is full of horse puckey, or questioning his advice. I'm just expressing my opinion on taking someone else's advise over your own gut instinct. It's one thing if you err on the side of caution, but you're going the other way.

Clint

"SwampBug" wrote in message news:YZh2e.2396$Qz.993@okepread05... I use a router and dado bits when and where i can. There are times when the saw is a better solution. I now know how to do it safely. Thanks for your reply.

Reply to
Clint

I've been forced to go without the washer for dado (first wobble, now stacked) too. Have fun, but be safe. Joe

SwampBug wrote:

model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full nut. What is the solution?

Reply to
Joe_Stein

Ive wondered the same thing with my Craftsman saw. "Seems" to be okay with just the nut.

Reply to
toller

That's pretty much standard at full thickness. The blades are pretty heavy in section, so they pretty much act as their own washer.

Reply to
George

Been doin' it that way for years on mine - thought it was the thing to do - and it has worked!

Reply to
Vic Baron

true at the time but subsequent posts indicate a 'safe' scenario. . . = Thank you for your reply.

--=20 SwampBug

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BTW, I'm not trying to say Mike in Mystic is full of horse puckey, or questioning his advice. I'm just expressing my opinion on taking = someone else's advise over your own gut instinct. It's one thing if you err on = the side of caution, but you're going the other way.

Clint

--=20 SwampBug

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If you're uncomfortable with leaving the washer off, it might be time to consider a router, or cutting the dado in multiple passes on your saw.

If a process makes you nervous, don't do it. There are a lot of ways to cut rabbets & dados. Keep all you body parts as factory installed.

Patriarch

Reply to
SwampBug

Thanks!

--=20 SwampBug

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SwampBug wrote:

exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches = the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The = situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with = less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the = saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade = be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the = nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full = nut. What is the solution?=20

Reply to
SwampBug

interesting piece and I will look into it more but Amazon claims no = longer available. . .at least thru them. Thanks.

--=20 SwampBug

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formatting link
about table saw. I have a Delta 10" contractor saw with 30" UniFence, =

exact model escapes me just now. The arbor has a flange that sandwiches = the blade. once fixed to the arbor and, of course, one removable. The = situation is when I install a dado blade for 3/4" dado, I am left with = less than a full nut on the arbor. I don't know how safe this is but the = saw is spec'd for full dado. The question is can/should the dado blade = be installed without the outside arbor flange? This would leave only the = nut in contact with the blade and, in my opinion, less safe than a full = nut. What is the solution?=20

Reply to
SwampBug

Thanks.

--=20 SwampBug

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Reply to
SwampBug

I looked it up yesterday evening in a engineering book: The Washers are needed if the stuff you use the nut on is "soft" and tends to set. If you have a high quality screw and nut adding a washer will

*decrease* the strength of the joint.
Reply to
Juergen Hannappel

Did you look up load distribution? Seems that's what's important here.

Reply to
George

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