New version of SketchUp

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My Google SketchUp program prompted me to upgrade today. I use the free version (non-pro). As a result, my DP baseboard model I designed last weekend took on more of x-ray look. Its the "edges" feature, that lets you choose whether you see them or not. Check it out if you like. In my last version you couldn't see the wheels the same way you do here:
http://web.newsguy.com/MySite /
There's probably other new features. I just thought I would mention the new version. If you've been waiting to get on-board with SketchUp, this might be a good chance! I've used (my dad's) T-square before--and I like this better! For the time being at least, it's still free. Watch a few tutorials and build a few boxes in minutes...then build a house, with windows, doors, a fence, etc. After a dozen tries, and perhaps a little reading, you can do it all in a minute (can't do that with your T-square, no?). If you don't want to do it, don't let me try to push you into anything--that was just my little motivational talk! :) Have fun!
Bill
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Not meaning to take the wind out of your sales here. ;~) That is indeed a cool newish feature. I noticed that on the previous November release, IIRC. It is more of a "true" hidden line feature now, how you would hand draw isometrically.

LOL, I dropped AutoCAD for Sketchup.
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Leon wrote:

Leon, Thank you clarifying. My sails are not deflated in the least. I may have been "too busy for an update" at the moment I was offered the November release. This thread ties in nicely with the recent "Design" thread. I think the comment you made there about "Design being both part of the work as well as part of the fun", captures the spirit of what is going on very nicely. SketchUp, of course, is an enabler ('case there's any non-believers left in the room). : )
Bill
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I would extend the front and back deck boards 6" ( or what is necessary for the wheels to mount and turn 369 degrees) on each side and mount the wheels on the outside of the frame on the underside of the extended deck boards. My reasons are: 1.) You want to have the widest base possible while moving a top heavy beast like a drill press. Picture getting it moving, and a wheel hits a cord or nail or block of wood on the floor. The DP stops suddenly, trying to tip it over. 2) When, not if, a wheel gets hung up on a nail or cord or scrap of wood, you want to be able to identify which wheel is blocked, and then be able to reach down and remove the obstruction. You can not do that if you can not see it, or reach it.
Take my advice, or I guarantee you will regret it. Wait and see.
Right, everyone?
--
Jim in NC


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Morgans wrote:

My thinking was that the lugs would still be there to keep it from tipping too far. My first design was more like you described, I think. I did, by the way, end up with 4" wheels (4 x $12.96 at Home Depot for anyone considering building their own), so maybe the problem you describe below will be less of a problem. I promise I will keep your advise in mind. It will not be too difficult to switch from one design to the other if I experience difficulties. I've already cut the wood.
Bill
2) When, not if, a wheel

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I used the Rockler mobile base kit with the wheels on the perimeter, Very stable when setting on the leveling screws.
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Actually as far as mobility goes it really is not bad for moving from the garage to a lift gate on a moving truck, back to the lift gateand back into the new shop. Stable enough, Right Swingman?
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On 1/15/2011 10:23 AM, Leon wrote:

Works like a charm. If I do say so myself, we're getting pretty damn good at moving entire shops of heavy machinery with just two of us and the lift on the back of a 14' box truck ...
This last time the only thing I was concerned with was your big Laguna band saw ... It'd killed my soul to see that gorgeous piece of machinery fall over!
I still cringe when I even consider the possibility.
--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 4/15/2010
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Ah wud'n a skeerd. No worse for wear, cut through 30 rawhide chewys licked'd split.
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"Morgans" wrote:

Given a two wheeled hand truck and a Come-A-Long to secure DP while moving, who needs casters?
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

The DP is 260#. I want to preclude an accident. A little too much tilt, and I might lose control of it on a mover's dolly/hand truck.
Bill

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"Bill" wrote:

So don't tilt it past 10 degrees.
260# is NBD if you approach it like a mover.
Move it in steps.
Lew
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Lew Hodgett wrote:

Yes, I could have done that. Part of me is curious about some of the design features (supporting lugs and wheels) which are built-in the current design. They could be useful on my TS and the workbenches we've discussed. Consider my DP baseboard as a prototype mobile base.
Bill
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I don't think I want my TS 4-6" higher than it is. Hmm, I'll have to think about it some more.
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snipped-for-privacy@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz wrote:

It's nice to know I'm not the only one interested. Hope you'll post your thoughts when you decide.
Bill
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My Unisaw is already on a mobile cart, along with the extension table. However, I'd like to reuse the space under the extension table for cabinets. There's never enough cabinets and never enough floor space. Fitting cabinets to the mobile base is quite a design challenge. A platform under the whole thing would make the design much simpler. I'm not sure of the wisdom in raising the table that much, though.
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You need to make a TS base out of steel, or really get creative. The wheels need to be mounted so that the TS is only about an inch off the ground.
--
Jim in NC


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Morgans wrote:

Jim, Didn't you say you made yours from 4by4s?
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Nope, I have access to metal working stuff and welder. My TS wheels have an angle iron base.
--
Jim in NC


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Morgans wrote:

Thanks, you really helped give me a good lesson on mobile bases!
Bill
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