new table saw making some smoke

Hiya,
I've been trying out my nice new General International TS and it's a dream.
One thing though, on rip cuts I get burning on the right side and that side only. It seems to be a bit uneven, that is the scorching is heavier towards the top and almost absent at the bottom on stock around 3/4" thick.
So what simpleminded goofy thing am I overlooking?
Tried aligning the fence (a great Biesmeyer-style, not a cheapie), doesn't seem to make much difference.
I'm gonna dig around Google after I send this out, but can anybody help me out promptly and easily, here?
James snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com
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Check your blade, could be bent, twisted, or dull (If the blade is new doesn't mean it is sharp and true) or change your feed rate.
Just something to check.
When your saws cut wood like a hot knife through butter, thank your filer.
James
brocpuffs wrote:

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James,
What blade are you using?
Do you know how many "revolutionary" blades have been advertised in the last few years, and most turn out to be the same old crap in different packaging?
Well guess what? Someone has come out with a new blade! Check out the new Freud "Glue Line Rip" blade, I think you will really like it and it will make some of your problems go away.
Thanks,
David.
Every neighbourhood has one, in mine, I'm him.
Remove the "splinter" from my email address to email me.
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I grew up with a saw filer for a father. Dad could make an old saw work better then saws right out of the store. I look at some of these new blades with there slits and zigs, and I think its just fancy engineering to accommodate for tension (the rim of a saw will stretch more then the eye at different RPMs) on different saws.
I think if you want a good blade, get a good filer. But hey, I've been wrong before.
David F. Eisan wrote:

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David
sorry for the rant, misread the post.
James

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On Tue, 06 Apr 2004 02:51:55 GMT, "David F. Eisan"

Hi there David and all the rest of you :-)
The blade is a Freud! Also my cuts are through cuts, the blade top is well above the top of the stock.It's a good one that has served me well and I guess it's time to send it to the shop for a sharpening.
u-f-f-f-f-f, I make jokes about smoke re people who don't bother to sharpen their blades. Guess it backfired on me.
I was fooled 'cause it seemed to be doing well on my old saw when it expired. I read the suggestions about sharpening it with interest, but I kinda thought files aren't much help on carbide teeth.
The blade seemed a little dull before. Somebody I asked said "nah, it's good" but I believe you judge sharpness on the _sides_ of the teeth, not the cross-width edges as he did.
I have more blades, some new, I'll try one of those on my next cut. Gotta check out that glue-line blade now. Another new toy! :-)
James snipped-for-privacy@rochester.rr.com
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Rubs at top, once in the cut, stabilized. Sounds like a squirming blade. I go the blade, too, though you might try one of those big precision washers they sell for stabilizing.

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James
forgot to ask, how high do you have your blade? Some blades will torsion if the gullet doesn't clear the top of the piece.
brocpuffs wrote:

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Could be a number of things but assuming a sharp blade and if you are using one, I'd check the splitter alignment as the next likely suspect..
-- Mike G. snipped-for-privacy@heirloom-woods.net Heirloom Woods www.heirloom-woods.net

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wrote:

...going to the dealer and asking it be aligned properly. Otherwise return it.
Dan.
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brocpuffs wrote:

blade and miter slots. How tight are you tightening the blade on the arbor? If you tighten it too much the blade will cup. Remove the insert, raise the blade all the way and put a straight edge first across one side of the blade and then the other. And make sure your blade is perpendicular to the table top.
Philski
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