New table saw - can't change blade

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Ryobi from Home Depot ... I realize it's a reverse thread. Ryobi supples two wrenches and there seems to plenty of torque. Still under return for 45 more days but I hate to return an item this expensive because someone overightened the nut at the factory. If I get the nut off will I have damaged anything? ... I mean if the damage isn't obvious. Is there any damage done from overtightening in the first place?
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I would think that the problem is some kind of metal bonding, rust, paint, etc. I would spray it with WD-40 or something similar. Let it soak overnight. Then attack it with some kind of pipe over the wrenchs to provide more leverage. Once it breaks free, you will know better what is happening.
Also, as long as you are going in the right direction, some hammer taps on the wrench will help move a stubborn nut. Just don't overdo it or go the wrong direction.
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Try a little heat on the nut, make help loosen it with some thrmal shock.

I would think that the problem is some kind of metal bonding, rust, paint, etc. I would spray it with WD-40 or something similar. Let it soak overnight. Then attack it with some kind of pipe over the wrenchs to provide more leverage. Once it breaks free, you will know better what is happening.
Also, as long as you are going in the right direction, some hammer taps on the wrench will help move a stubborn nut. Just don't overdo it or go the wrong direction.
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Always loosen a saw blade arbor nut in the same direction that the blade spins.
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Your concern with warranty is valid. Email Ryobi with a detailed report on the circumstances, with pictures, serial number, etc. Discuss maintaining the warranty, in case something does break, during your attempted fix. You want a record of having discussed the problem with Ryobi, and not just blindside them after the fact. I'm sure they will be accommodating, no matter if they allow you to attempt a fix or accept replacing it. Doesn't Home Depot have some sort of service personell. Get someone from HD to witness any attempted fix, to support the efforts you report to Ryobi, should future complications arise.
Any contact with Ryobi is evidence of an existing problem. There's no doubt a phone number on their paperwork, owners manual, etc. That's one of the reasons as to what the phone number is for, isn't it.
Sonny
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Thanks for the new ideas. I'm on my way to Home Depot now.

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So, being a left tilt saw, which this probably is, the threads are not LH. My right tilt delta is reverse threads, or LH. My jobsite Dewally is a left tilt and they thread on normally. Hey asphalt, you better try righty-tighty lefty-loosy before you take it back brother.
RP
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Never mind left tilt vs. right tilt -- Leon nailed it with a simple rule: whichever direction the blade spins, that's the direction you turn the arbor nut to remove it. If you like, think of the saw teeth as directional arrows showing you which way to turn the wrench.
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On 6/10/10 5:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

You guys are right, that's the easiest rule to remember.
But Doug, what if my saw teeth have a negative hook angle? :-p
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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What if some idiot put the blade on backwards? What if I'm working on my saw upside down, backwards? What if only have a LH wrench?
RP
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On 6/10/10 6:11 PM, RP wrote:

I hate when I buy a pair of drumstick and they put two left handed sticks in by mistake.
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
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"-MIKE-" wrote

Not to worry.
You should be able to grasp them firmly with your multiple thumbs on each hand.
<rimshot>
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re: "What if some idiot put the blade on backwards?"
Even though I'm a righty, I use a left-handed (blade left) circular saw (Porter-Cable).
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/pc743.htm
I was working with a guy who builds custom houses. I grabbed his circular saw and said "WTF"?
He said "Mark a board to be cut and lay the saw on the cut line. Is the cut line hidden on the other side of the motor, or is it right there is plain view? No more leaning over the saw to see the cut line." I was instantly convinced.
So I buy a left handed saw, and go to install a blade. The blade has all kinds of text one side, including the direction-of-rotation arrows. I slap the blade on the saw, look at it and then say to myself "Ya know, that just doesn't look right."
As it turns out, most blades are "printed" for use with right-handed saws. These have to be mounted "printed side in" on a blade left saw. I'm glad this "idiot" realized that before I started the cut!
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The way I remember is to put a wood block under the teeth and turn the wrench so the teeth meets the wood. Make certain your fingers are out of the way!!
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Doesn't matter -- the teeth still point forward, no?
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On 6/10/10 9:29 PM, Doug Miller wrote:

I was joking. First time I changed a blade, and for a long time after that, I used a thin screwdriver in a gullet. Next saw I got had two wrenches with it, and I was like, "Oh, so I don't need a screwdriver." :-)
--

-MIKE-

"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
  Click to see the full signature.
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That shows you Mike, as you get older you get smarter. WW
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I knew some one would mention that. LOL
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Haven't you ever watched Norm Abrams?
He doesn't change routers bits, he just opens that big drawer with the 15 routers in it and grabs the one with the right bit.
Go buy another table saw with a different blade. ;-)
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wrote:

I would, but the drawer is full of routers.
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