one thing i havn't seen mention is ground level walk out from the basement. doors as wide as anything you plan to build... ;)
The plywood/osb on the walls suggestion is good... the sheetrock over that is likely to be required for fire code.
lots of outlets. on several circuits. I'd put each circuit on a properly rated switch. Breakers are not meant to be switched alot... switches (go figure) are. since these will likely be inductive loads, get the anti arc switches.
make sure you have phone/internet/intercom down there. (and a place for a laptop/computer for reading rec.woodworking ;)
if you can wing it, a seperate positive air pressure finishing area.
Interesting...I'd never heard that. Are you required to put sheetrock over wood paneling, too? Joking, of course, but why would sheetrock be required for fire code?
Narrowest is 53" x 12 yards long (rolled, of course). Next up is 107". IIRC, you can then get 12'. Check out
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and
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Search under backgrounds or seamless paper. Both of those outfits are reputable NYC businesses that I've dealt with for some time. You can probably also find the seamless paper at your local camera store.
Comes in all the colors of the rainbow, plus some, including 2 shades of white (white and super white).
Charlie Self
"If a politician found he had cannibals among his constituents, he would promise them missionaries for dinner." H. L. Mencken
thanks and thanks for all the B&H recommendations. we have University Camera in the Durham area that is very good, been around a long, long time. I will try them first and the on the B&H if that doesn't work.
it is that way here in NC, at least in occupied areas and attached garages, I didn't ask about my detached garage. I also didn't ask about paneling. Most all the paneling I have seen has been in mobile homes and they have their own code.
I just wanted to chime in and second Charlie's comment on B&H Photo. They are an excellent company to deal with, easily on par with Lee Valley or other fine mail order/online establishments. You would have your best luck at a place like B&H - I don;t know what camera shops are like where you are but in South Jersey they are the $hit$ and don't carry anything most of the time.
It clears the bench and I don't have room to put plywood panels around. But your idea of higher is probably even better. The point is to get them up high for accessability.
I'm doing all new wiring in my shop-to-be. the ceiling outlets are handy - lots of 'em. I put one right above the outer right hand corner of my table saw and it sure keeps the cord clear of everything. I'm also putting in lots of 220 everywhere and converting tools to 220 where possible.
Or going upstairs to use the toilette like a proper gentleman... (Yes, I spelled it that way on purpose, because I was thinking in French at the time...)
People in a basement have fewer excuses about going outside to pee on a tree.
Reminds me of a funny, disgusting dog story though. (Consider that a warning to the easily-offended...)
At some point recently, the urge to purge grew great, and I let it go too long. I fished a Dr. Pepper can out of the trash because I couldn't make it all the way across the yard and then into and to the back of the house in time.
It was raining, so after I drained the main vein, I tossed the can out to drain in the rain.
So, basically, I didn't go pick the can up, and I forgot about it. (I'm a slob, get over it.) Couple three days later, I'm in the shop, and SWMBO is standing there yammering about something. I'm going "un huh, uh huh" and meanwhile my newest dog catches my eye. He's out in the yard with this stupid can, rolling on it, licking at it, chewing on it, then he goes down on one shoulder and rubs the thing on himself all the way around, like he's taking a bath in some delicate eau de toilette...
SWMBO was laughing because Bubby really *loves* Dr. Pepper, and I was laughing because I knew what kind of residue was really in that can.
I think maybe "master pee" is even more piquante to the pooch than cat shit.
I third it. Can't believe they're still sending me that gigantic, expensive catalog every year.
I pretty much figured out that 553 trillion other people wanted to try to make money as a photographer too, and the equipment to compete with the big boys was just too spendy, so my camera spends a lot of time languishing in the closet these days.
I should probably sell that damn thing. I guess I won't though. I'd never buy another one, but I've already paid $115,000 for this one (I put it on my credit card years and years ago, stupid, stupid, stupid) so I might as well keep it.
I've noticed all of the suggestions here apply to attached or basement shops.
For those who have the opportunity and the means, I highly recommend a detatched shop.
The people in your life who say they don't mind the noise do. The same ones have to clean up the sawdust that isn't really a significant amount. It is. And lastly, the smell of finishing compound that they say isn't that bad, really is.
Sure, most of us have to make do with whatever work spaces are available. But given the chance, give the folks in your family a break and don't make them share the less pleasant parts of your avocation.
When I built the space for my 20' x 30' shop, I wanted plenty of light and plenty of outlets.
I had them wire the walls with wall outlets roughly 3 1/2' high from the floor and every 4'-5' around the room. I also had them put in 9 outlets in the floor on two different circuits. Then I added a 220v circuit about where I thought the table saw would go. I tried to determine where I thought I'd have a dust collector system and added a 220v circuit there, too.
For lighting, I had them install a total of 30 flourescent fixtures in 6 separate banks. Even with all that light there are still areas next to the walls where the light is not good. At my lathe, I have to have a small lamp for additional lighting, and at my bandsaw the same thing.
That sounds like a good size, it's it clear space dedicated to the shop. I've got just about exactly that size and shape of floor space, but it's shared with a flight of stairs, laundry sink, furnace, and water heater. Not to mention three very inconveniently placed columns. Having that amount of space clean of obstructions would be wonderful!
I envy you having 8-1/2' headroom in the basement. I've got barely 7 feet to the bottom of the floor joists, which means about 7' 6" between the joists. Oh, how much just another 6 inches would be. Another 12 would be heaven.
You absolutely want the 200 amp service. I went through this with my contractor. I wanted 200 amp, he pushed back and said nobody would ever need more than 150. I insisted, and I'm glad I did. It's not so much the actual current draw, but the number of slots for breakers that made a big difference. Yes, you could make more circuits with half-size breakers, but then the wiring becomes a real mess. It's much neater with a larger box and stuff spread out more.
I don't think I would want to build the dust collection ducts into the walls. What if you get a clog and need to disassemble a run to clean it out?
Have you thought of a half bathroom in the basement? It's a real bummer being in the middle of something and having to troop upstairs tracking sawdust through the house just to take a leak.
Do you have a large door going to the outside? Makes it a whole lot easier to get machines and materials in and finished projects out. Don't settle for a standard 30" door. Make sure it's 36" wide (like all exterior doors should be, but often people skimp on basements).
When they wire the basement, make sure the lights are on a dedicated circuit. Don't share lighting with power outlets.
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