Moved last year to a place with no shop so I need to build one now
that most everything else is done. It will be concrete slab on grade.
I will use 2 X 4 sleepers on the concrete with plywood over the
My last shop was done this way and I liked being able to run airlines
and some wiring under the floor.
Somewhere I saw a picture of a shop with a plywood floor and the
plywood had 2 or 3 coats of poly on it.
Anyone on the list use this approach.
On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 4:42:14 PM UTC-6, swalker wrote:
Assuming that you did this earlier, your actual question isn't about power
access hidden in the floor. I have seen this in commercial applications an
d thought it was pretty slick.
Use the right kind of plywood, and coat it with a real floor coating. Regu
lar poly isn't close to being abrasion resistant enough to make a good choi
ce for coating.
You have a lot of choices in clear floor coatings, and even paint. When I
was a kid there were several old shops I was in that had the wood floors pa
inted with "deck paint" that was a super hard oil based enamel used on meta
l and wood at that time. It wore great and was easily repaired or renewabl
e. With the newer products sold as "deck paint" or "deck coating" meant to
coat and do minor crack filling on your backyard home deck, these products
are more likely to be found as "marine deck paint" or "boat deck paint".
I should have been clear in my question.
I didn't think about what plywood to use but comments on this would be
And what kind of coating to use.
I used porch/deck paint before and it didn't hold up well but at the
time the shop floor got a whole lot more abuse than this one will.
budget is always important
but there are one or two places that sell used data center raised
meant for heavy stuff and traffic but not sure about a dusty environ
probably not cheap but it is modular
if you go plywood you would want to use the best you can afford
and be prepared to maintain the floor
how much head space do you have because if you have enough you
could go with 2x6 or 2x8 etc and have some storage in the floor
One more question to consider... And this time with punctuation. :-)
How are you going to remove the pieces of the floor when you need to get
to the stuff underneath? A 4x8 sheet of plywood is awfully big...
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 17:00:20 +0000, Puckdropper wrote:
That's an important point. Almost requires some sort of modular flooring
in smaller sizes (32"x32"?). Or a preternatural ability to know all
future electrical requirements :-).
If moving equipment around is not a requirement, I'd just seal the
plywood and put down some sort of resilient flooring or mats.
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
I hadn't considered the need to get underneath because in 17 years in
my last shop I never had a reason to. The airlines were copper pipe
and the wiring never a problem.
I should ponder this some more but removing a sheet of plywood is
possible unless it is T&G. Might need some help even then.
fyi raised floors in data centers are fast becoming obsolete so maybe
you can find a data center that is converting back to slab and fan walls
is your equipment stationary
if it is then you could have grates and dust collectors in the floor
you might be the envy of the woodworking community
Data center raised flooring is very often concrete filled metal panels sitt
ing in a gridwork of steel framing on pedestals adhered to the slab at prec
ise locations...special vacuum/suction cup lifters are usually required to
set and/or lift and the panels are HEAVY (with plenty of punctuation)
A link to typical installation follows:
On Friday, February 19, 2016 at 1:33:30 PM UTC-5, Electric Comet wrote:
An issue with raised flooring that may come into play with this shop is the
amount of head room available and the height difference between the doors
and the raised floor... raised floors from computer centers burn up a lot
of space. Not that this couldn't be designed around but it would drive the
cost up. The 2X sleepers would be a cost effective alternative and still
provide chases for wiring and air lines. The raised floor system might be
justified however if an extensive dust collection piping system were to be
constructed under it... there was no mention of that in the OP's message
Depending upon the climate it may make sense to insulate the floor system...
or at least provide a thermal break by putting sill sealer foam between the
sleepers and concrete. This can make a big difference in comfort and in the
air conditioning costs (heating and/or cooling).
Re the flooring, 3/4" T&G subflooring on 2x4 sleepers is a good start.
Depending upon how good the concrete job turns out, if you want a truly flat
floor you will may have to scribe the sleepers but that is not a big deal. I
had my sons scribe a 16x22 foot room for me when they were about 7 and 9
years old... After the first sleeper I didn't check any more as it was
perfect. I just cut what they marked using my bandsaw. They did a fine job
(they were a lot closer to the floor back then!). I also left the floor
independent of the walls with a small gap that was insulated. The drywall
and baseboard covers the gap. A similar approach could be used in a shop to
leave access to the chases for future runs... maybe a 1x4 or 1x6 border that
is screwed down? A flat level floor can be handy for getting bench and tool
top heights to match and co-planer and it is real handy to have a flat and
level floor when assembling things. Finish... I'd probably use a good floor
paint after priming with tinted primer (to help hide future scratches). I
put poly on a couple sheet good shop floors in the past and they were
nothing to write home about... if looks are important.
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 15:02:16 -0500, "John Grossbohlin"
I am in AL so we don't really get a lot of cold weather but we do get
some hot and humid days. The shop will have AC and heat. Heat type to
One thing I absolutely need to remember is to make sure that the wall
covering does not overlap the floor along the edges. Removing the
floor would be very difficult without cutting the drywall.
A perfectly flat floor isn't really all that necessary as long as I
can level the equipment.
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