New Ridgid Tablesaw

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What do you folks think; did they try to cut costs with the switch away from C.I. or is it just too sexy for their saw (sorry 'bout that one.)? I don't know what granite goes for so I could be waaay off. I noticed that the table is a few inches shorter too. Is that in reference to the limit of strength of granite? I'm glad that I have my 3650, bum arbor included!
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wrote:

WTF?
That makes NO sense whatsoever. Might as well use glass and get the destruction over with in a hurry.
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Dave, doncha know, granite is taking over. First there was kitchen countertops. Next table saw tops. Soon all office desks will be granite topped. It is a conspiracy of the granite cabal.
But not to worry. Robatoy can upgrade you to a new bigger, thicker piece of granite for your tablesaw. Or even some of that fake countertop material he sells.
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: But not to worry. Robatoy can upgrade you to a new bigger, thicker piece of : granite for your tablesaw. Or even some of that fake countertop material he : sells.
My SYB has a niece whose husband sell that fake countertop stuff for Le Grande Orange and I've been trying to get him to fork up a piece big enough to make a router table out of.
Dave in Houston
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You might want to talk to an installer and get a sink cut out. My neighbor had his counter tops changed out after I redid his cabinets. He use the locally available, SyleStone, located on the south belt. They don't install but can recommend an installer. I bet you could call them and see if an installer could get you a cut out. My neighbor ended up with a decent sized chunk IIRC.
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NuWave Dave wrote: ...

Sink cutouts should be pretty easy to come by altho most around here shape them and leave them as cutting boards as a "feature service" kind of goodwill thingie.
The bulk of those are only 1/2" material thickness and not all that rigid though so not quite as good a material as it seems on first blush has been my experience. For smaller pieces it's fine; not quite strong enough in bigger or for larger routers, at least w/o supporting structure.
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Oddly I know of 3 brands offering granite tops. Steel City was the first IIRC. Add Ridged and Craftsman.
I can see the advantages, no rust, "flat" top that stays that way, and mass for a smother running machine. Disadvantages, chipping or breaking, virtually no modifications to the granite, you may never be able to change fences, no magnets will stick to it so many new feather boards and jigs are out.
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Seems like a lot of benefits to give just to keep from having to clean and wax it.
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A flat top and less vibration go a long way in improving accuracy. I'd say granite would be the superior surface if you are willing to take the precautions, find other ways of using jigs and buy with a good fence to start with.
For me no. I don't baby my tools.
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"Leon" wrote

great need to secure jigs to the saw. Seems like an opportunity for somebody. Perhaps a giant suction device similar to what the glass people use to move those big panes of glass. In a pinch, you could use the Red Green approach, good ole duct tape!
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"Lee Michaels" wrote

Yep, I'm already using it to hold the blade on ...
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Leon wrote:

Is vibration really an issue with a heavy cast iron top? I'm asking.
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-MIKE- wrote:

Not unless there's something causing it which is pretty much independent of the top.
I can't see granite being a real plus given the issues and the pita problem it would be if did chip/crack. Seems like a marketing gimmick to me; I've no clue about whether it's a cost-cutting effort for the manufacturer or not. Doesn't seem like it must be much cost penalty anyway given the vendors who are using it.
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Absolutely! Stock belts and pulleys on contractor saws can cause a lot of vibration. Hence the belt and pulley kits that are offered as aftermarket. Even the better cabinet saw makers are going from the 3 belt set up to the serpentine automotive type belts as they don't take a set shape.
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Leon wrote:

Isn't the obvious solution, rather than get a saw with a 300lb top to dampen vibration, simply upgrade the belt and maybe add a machined pulley?
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-MIKE- wrote:

The 3560 vibrates a little at startup but once it's going it passes the nickel test just fine. No need for upgraded anything.
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J. Clarke wrote:

Coin on edge?
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Mine [3560] passed the coin on edge nickel test at start up. However, it wouldn't take much more during start up to knock the coin over.
Puckdropper
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-MIKE- wrote:

Uh, what would be the point otherwise?
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J. Clarke wrote:

I was asking what the "nickel test" was?
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