I recently finished one set of three I am building. The other sets are built but
need to fit the drawers and do the finishing.
Done in Cherry rather than QS White Oak. Finished with a wash of Transtint
Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.
I made some other small changes to the design. One knob on lower drawer. Made
front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can
see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.
I really like the dainty legs and lower cross members.
I assume that is going to darken up over time. But this starts out a little
darker than other cherry pieces I have seen.
The lines are good. The color is good. I am sure that somebody will be
very happy with it.
On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:57:43 AM UTC-6, SonomaProducts.com wrote:
As with the original, it's uncomplicated, elegant and pleasing to the eye.
Similarly, I've always liked this Roycroft book case -
. Your sewing table has rekindled my thoughts to attempt this bookcase.
On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 6:09:55 AM UTC-8, Sonny wrote:
te: > I recently finished one set of three I am building. As with the origi
nal, it's uncomplicated, elegant and pleasing to the eye. Good job. Similar
ly, I've always liked this Roycroft book case - http://www.artvalue.com/auc
tionresult--the-roycrofters-ca-1895-usa-magazine-pedestal-2100022.htm . You
r sewing table has rekindled my thoughts to attempt this bookcase. Sonny
Yes, those always caught my eye also. The Hile furniture company used to ma
ke a repro version but I don't see it on his website anymore.
One question. With the wedge tenons, will you actually let them be the join
ting aspect or will you glue it up? I have plans to build a trestle table w
ith wedge tenons and I think I'll not glue them and also make the legs bolt
to the table them so I can break the table down for moving.
On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:23:36 PM UTC-6, SonomaProducts.com wrote
inting aspect or will you glue it up? I have plans to build a trestle table
with wedge tenons and I think I'll not glue them and also make the legs bo
lt to the table them so I can break the table down for moving.
I'll let the wedge tenons hold the joint. That technique is tried and true
and holds great. A bookcase as the Roycroft, should not need an (overkill
) glued attachment, unless it would be made with cheap/weak lumber.
My nephew and I made a long trestle bar table, for a local pub.... used for
eating and drinking. It's about 43" tall and has a keyed trestle (wedge t
enons). It's sturdy, despite being made of (relatively soft) cypress. Wit
h patrons leaning on it and such, it's held up just fine these past 10 mont
hs. I don't have pics of it, but I'll get some.
Lately, I've looked at other trestle dining tables (online pics, for a desi
gn idea), for making one for the camp, using the walnut I recently milled.
I may practice some other keyed assembled projects to learn more about the
keying, in case there are some aspects or key types that are better than o
thers. I do not plan to glue these keyed joints. I may try to figure out
some keying assembly for the table top to legs attaching, too. I'll have
to study/research that a good bit more more, before I commit to it.
In my recent shaving horse project, I used 2 flat wedges to help secure the
head. I made the shaving horse to be disassembled easily, for moving conv
eniently, then reassembling.
The concept of wedge or keyed joints is simple, easy and, so for, holds ver
y well, plus easy disassembly.
Along the same line of wedging or keyed "clamping", lately a local metal cr
aftsman and I have been experimenting with making holdfasts. Their clampin
g function is similar to wedging and keyed pressure for "holding". I've be
en reading.... why certain holdfast designs work and others don't. All th
ese types of joint assembly and clamping are somewhat related, that way. *
We made 4
prototypes and 2 worked fine, so for.
Seems the optimum angle for a holdfast (Shaft to seating head) is 83°. I
wonder if a keyed joint or the key's bevel of 83° is optimum for strengt
h and/or not loosening, readily. I may make a few different angled ones, f
or testing. Optimum angle may be dependant on the wood used, also.
I think it's picture 5 but the joint looks like there is squeeze out or
something. Everything else looks so clean I assume it is just photo not being
reality. Mike M
I think you are talking about the sliding dovetail joint of the lower cross
members. Actually it is most likely steel wool shavings or dust settled on the
I hate the way steel wool shavings get in all the creases but I love the way it
deglosses at the same time I am applying wax so I suffer the dust. Yes, magnets
can help but it does stick in crevises sometimes.
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