I recently finished one set of three I am building. The other sets are built but need to fit the drawers and do the finishing.
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Done in Cherry rather than QS White Oak. Finished with a wash of Transtint Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.
I made some other small changes to the design. One knob on lower drawer. Made front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.
I really like the dainty legs and lower cross members.
Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.
front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.
te: > I recently finished one set of three I am building. As with the origi nal, it's uncomplicated, elegant and pleasing to the eye. Good job. Similar ly, I've always liked this Roycroft book case -
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. You r sewing table has rekindled my thoughts to attempt this bookcase. Sonny
Yes, those always caught my eye also. The Hile furniture company used to ma ke a repro version but I don't see it on his website anymore.
One question. With the wedge tenons, will you actually let them be the join ting aspect or will you glue it up? I have plans to build a trestle table w ith wedge tenons and I think I'll not glue them and also make the legs bolt to the table them so I can break the table down for moving.
Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.
front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.
On Wednesday, February 27, 2013 12:23:36 PM UTC-6, SonomaProducts.com wrote :
inting aspect or will you glue it up? I have plans to build a trestle table with wedge tenons and I think I'll not glue them and also make the legs bo lt to the table them so I can break the table down for moving.
I'll let the wedge tenons hold the joint. That technique is tried and true and holds great. A bookcase as the Roycroft, should not need an (overkill ) glued attachment, unless it would be made with cheap/weak lumber.
My nephew and I made a long trestle bar table, for a local pub.... used for eating and drinking. It's about 43" tall and has a keyed trestle (wedge t enons). It's sturdy, despite being made of (relatively soft) cypress. Wit h patrons leaning on it and such, it's held up just fine these past 10 mont hs. I don't have pics of it, but I'll get some.
Lately, I've looked at other trestle dining tables (online pics, for a desi gn idea), for making one for the camp, using the walnut I recently milled. I may practice some other keyed assembled projects to learn more about the keying, in case there are some aspects or key types that are better than o thers. I do not plan to glue these keyed joints. I may try to figure out some keying assembly for the table top to legs attaching, too. I'll have to study/research that a good bit more more, before I commit to it.
In my recent shaving horse project, I used 2 flat wedges to help secure the head. I made the shaving horse to be disassembled easily, for moving conv eniently, then reassembling.
The concept of wedge or keyed joints is simple, easy and, so for, holds ver y well, plus easy disassembly.
Along the same line of wedging or keyed "clamping", lately a local metal cr aftsman and I have been experimenting with making holdfasts. Their clampin g function is similar to wedging and keyed pressure for "holding". I've be en reading.... why certain holdfast designs work and others don't. All th ese types of joint assembly and clamping are somewhat related, that way. * We made 4 prototypes and 2 worked fine, so for.
Seems the optimum angle for a holdfast (Shaft to seating head) is 83°. I wonder if a keyed joint or the key's bevel of 83° is optimum for strengt h and/or not loosening, readily. I may make a few different angled ones, f or testing. Optimum angle may be dependant on the wood used, also.
Vintage Maple dye, wipe-on satin poly and black wax.
front cross member one piece instead of two so it matched the other 3 sides. Can see a picture of an original and a catalog page at the end of the pics.
I think it's picture 5 but the joint looks like there is squeeze out or something. Everything else looks so clean I assume it is just photo not being reality.
I think it's picture 5 but the joint looks like there is squeeze out or something. Everything else looks so clean I assume it is just photo not being reality. Mike M
Whaaatttt!!!!?
I think you are talking about the sliding dovetail joint of the lower cross members. Actually it is most likely steel wool shavings or dust settled on the wax.
I hate the way steel wool shavings get in all the creases but I love the way it deglosses at the same time I am applying wax so I suffer the dust. Yes, magnets can help but it does stick in crevises sometimes.
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