You may wish to read this
Quote"In general, you should only open files with attachments that you
know are safe. For example, .jpg and .png are image files and should be
safe. .pdf, .docx, .xlsx, and .pptx are document files and should also
be safe —"
On Tuesday, March 22, 2016 at 9:09:55 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
.docx files are OK, it's the .doc and .docm files that can be dangerous.
In the older versions of MS Office (prior to 2007) files using the default
extensions (.doc, .xls, .ppt) could be saved with macros. Those can be
In the newer versions of office, the default extensions (.docx, .xlsx, .pptx) can not be used with files that contain macros. You must use .docm, .xlsm, .xlsb, .pptm, etc. However (and this is a big "however") if a user wants to
save the newer version files in an earlier Office format (pre-2007), they can
still use .doc, .xls and .ppt even if the file contains macros.
So, MS Office docs with 4 character extensions that end with "x" are safe.
Docs with 4 character extensions that end with "m" or "b" and docs with 3 character extensions can be dangerous.
On Sunday, March 20, 2016 at 12:37:59 PM UTC-7, notbob wrote:
Might not measure that close, but getting a tenon just right before applying
glue, is .005" or better. Those dial gages might help you adjust a fence for a
critical cut on a table saw. They definitely come in handy for table saw alignment.
quote: "Still, my buddy has a biscuit joiner tool."
For my purposes a slot cutter on a router table is far superior to a
biscuit joiner. As the pieces of wood get smaller the Biscuit Joiner
becomes less useful. Also with a slot cutter on a router table, you
get significantly better precision for positioning the slot.
On the comment "who makes wood cuts closer than 1/64 of an inch (~0.015")?".
Any time you make a series of cuts that result in a closed shape, a
1/64" is not sufficient. I make a lot of picture frames with mitered
corners. 1/64" will result in over an 1/8" or greater error in the
final joint. This is a significant gap. Even in a face frame for a
cabinet you may get a passable joint but not a good joint with a 1/64"
error in each cut.
An even more graphic example of angular error when dealing with curved
parts, like those found in chair making:
Does anyone really measure that (the tenon, I mean)? Most
woodworkers do it the traditional way - cut it just a hair
thick, then use a plane to get an exact fit.
One of the differences between metalworking and woodworking
is that in woodworking it's usually easy to remove just a
hair at a time until something fits, whereas in metal it's
often difficult to take just a shave off.
Of course, you do have to make sure you're starting on the
fat side, since adding material is a pain either way.
The main difference, as I see it, is that metalworking doesn't lend
itself, readily, to hand tools. Except for the file --like the plane
in woodworking-- and the hacksaw, there is not a lotta ways to remove
material. Wood? I've seen carpenters square a log with an axe.
A perfect example ;)
On Sunday, March 27, 2016 at 8:25:41 AM UTC-7, John McCoy wrote:
If you cut tenons with two-saws-and-spacer on a table saw, that's
about how critical the spacer is. I've built some screw-adjustable jigs
that need adjustment to that accuracy, for sliding dovetails.
I've built bookshelves with sliding dovetails, using jigs for routing
the shelves and grooves, If the jigs are accurate and adjusted right,
you just crank the cuts out and all the parts fit, about that tight,
"notbob" wrote in message
Howdy. My name is notbob, I run a Linux desktop, and I am a new
member cuz my kitchen drawers are falling apart and I need to learn
how to fix them. Since the entire house (mfd home) is fiberboard and
long abuse by my late mother has it falling apart, it's time to learn
some decent cabinetry.
I know jes enough about general carpentry that I'm totally fearless.
Spent 8 mos framing houses. Boy, can I ever neaten up a lumber pile!
Plus, as a former machinist and my late brother having been a master
carpenter, I've already got a lot of those tools.
Anyway, already discovered some joinery (dove, box, biscuit, etc) and
learned which tools my buddy already has (biscuit jointer, router)
....and which I need to buy (router table, dovetail jig, etc).
I can see me doing a new face frame and drawers outta (Baltic?) birch
and some other cabinetry stuff. Looks like big fun. I'm looking
forward to posting, here. If I get good enough, might try a guitar
spkr cabinet with all dovetail joinery, like I usta have (mesa boogie
Do yourself a favor and take a good read at Pat Warner's site. I built the
first version of this router fence when he wrote the article for Fine
Woodworking magazine. That fence is still in-use today and just as precise
as the day I built it.
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