Not if I can avoid it.
As I sed, I run Linux. Plus I've been on usenet fer more'n 13 yrs. I see myself in this group long enough to learn the regulars. ;)
nb
Not if I can avoid it.
As I sed, I run Linux. Plus I've been on usenet fer more'n 13 yrs. I see myself in this group long enough to learn the regulars. ;)
nb
OK! No mas. No bisky joints. Whew..... 8|
I asked, Keith answered.
Point noted, Keith. Thank you.
nb
These products are "no longer available", but thank you for answering. ;)
nb
Kinda funny, as Jet usta be considered cheap junk. Now --while not exactly in Bridgeport territory-- it's more upscale, pricey, acceptable. More than jes junk. (or is it?)
You make a good point and one that will not be lost on me. I know how to ignore trolls and my KF works better than most. Plus, I know how to spot those that "do" vs those who jes talk. Thank you for the advice. ;)
nb
Excellent!
I think you've made my choice, for me. I called our best lumberyard/tool/cabinet shop and they sed they do not carry pre-prepped sides in length, so I was looking for the joint which would cost me the least in tools. So far, yer locking rabbet joint looks to meet my criteria better than any other joint. So, thank you for teaching me about a joint I was not even aware of.
I have a buddy, a master carpenter, who has a boatload of tools, so I can barrow many from him. He definitely has a couple routers. Maybe even a table. The stuff he definitely doesn't have, I'll purchase. Today or tomorow, I'm buying the 1/4" size of these:
....as I or my buddy have nary a decent chisel fer miles. Next month, I plan on a 1/2" B&D Sweetheart sckt chisel.
I've got my late brother's chisel (1"), but couldn't understand why it was essentially ruined, the front edge reduced to a jagged wreck. I later overheard someone talking (youtube?) about how carpenters always carry a chisel to cut framing nails. Yikes! So that's what happened to that poor chisel. That's a trick my brother never taught me.
nb
Jet has been pretty good for at least 20 years. FWIW a lot of Powermatic and Jet differ only in color and name and maybe a few design enhancements. Both are owned by the same company.
Actually the was Swingman that pointed out the locking rabbet joint.
I mostly use this joint. It requires a sizeable investment for a Festool Domino.
This is my Flickr account so you are probably safe in clicking. ;~)
And FWIW I typically make drawers with 1/2" Baltic birch plywood. Here before assembly
After assembly but before the reinforcement Domino tenons added, as seen an the above links.
Or open paint cans. ;~)
.docx files are OK, it's the .doc and .docm files that can be dangerous.
In the older versions of MS Office (prior to 2007) files using the default extensions (.doc, .xls, .ppt) could be saved with macros. Those can be dangerous.
In the newer versions of office, the default extensions (.docx, .xlsx, .pptx) can not be used with files that contain macros. You must use .docm, .xlsm, .xlsb, .pptm, etc. However (and this is a big "however") if a user wants to save the newer version files in an earlier Office format (pre-2007), they can still use .doc, .xls and .ppt even if the file contains macros.
So, MS Office docs with 4 character extensions that end with "x" are safe. Docs with 4 character extensions that end with "m" or "b" and docs with 3 character extensions can be dangerous.
Yes, but on my computer, a file having extension .pdf is going to be opened with Adobe Acrobat. I have read that if this occurs within a browser, that the browser lends additional security.
Bill
Thank you for updating my "security knowledge" with regard to this!
Bill
Exactly.
An even more graphic example of angular error when dealing with curved parts, like those found in chair making:
whit3rd wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Does anyone really measure that (the tenon, I mean)? Most woodworkers do it the traditional way - cut it just a hair thick, then use a plane to get an exact fit.
One of the differences between metalworking and woodworking is that in woodworking it's usually easy to remove just a hair at a time until something fits, whereas in metal it's often difficult to take just a shave off.
Of course, you do have to make sure you're starting on the fat side, since adding material is a pain either way.
John
The main difference, as I see it, is that metalworking doesn't lend itself, readily, to hand tools. Except for the file --like the plane in woodworking-- and the hacksaw, there is not a lotta ways to remove material. Wood? I've seen carpenters square a log with an axe.
A perfect example ;)
nb
One does wonder what tools the Greeks used to make things like the Antikythera Mechanism.
If you cut tenons with two-saws-and-spacer on a table saw, that's about how critical the spacer is. I've built some screw-adjustable jigs that need adjustment to that accuracy, for sliding dovetails.
I've built bookshelves with sliding dovetails, using jigs for routing the shelves and grooves, If the jigs are accurate and adjusted right, you just crank the cuts out and all the parts fit, about that tight,
Since it is Europe, their power tools were all 220V. Saws were sculpted from marble so the tables were really flat.
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