In yer opinion.
I've already dealt with enough plastic in my life. I'm getting into
woodworking cuz I wanna get away from plastic.
Yeah, I know. There is still gonna be tons o' plastic around the
shop. Try and find some hand power tools that are still all metal,
like my '70 Milwaukee all-metal-casing 1/2" drill motor. Fat chance.
I'm cleaning out my late mother's property. Jes today, I've already
found 3 almost new pwr tools. Two corded orb sanders (hope one has a
dust blwr) and and an ultra cheap B&D bat drill motor. Now I have 3
orb sanders, four battery drill motors, 2 Skil saws (gave the
worm-drive away), and they all are mostly plastic construction.
Another reason I dislike plastic: Know what a Robot Coupe immersion
Our model cost over $600, yet it fell over in the kitchen and the
plastic handle broke into a dozen pieces when it hit the kitchen floor
(which is always present). Oops! Last time I saw it, it was a Red
a predisposition of a particular material used for something that it is
perfectly suited for.
There is another poster here that is mispositioned against Jet because
of a faulty set screw or something like that, and he has pretty much
shunned the brand because of ignorance. I would dare say that the brand
is better than what he has produced.
Anyway, keep an eye out for those in this group that "do" rather than
give opinions. Those people have a long list of woodworking
accomplishments and got there with a good solid knowledge about what
they are talking about.
Kinda funny, as Jet usta be considered cheap junk. Now --while not
exactly in Bridgeport territory-- it's more upscale, pricey,
acceptable. More than jes junk. (or is it?)
You make a good point and one that will not be lost on me. I know how
to ignore trolls and my KF works better than most. Plus, I know how
to spot those that "do" vs those who jes talk. Thank you for the
Yes, AND there many more correct ways to build drawers than to misuse
If they indeed do that, you should run the other way down that road as
fast as you can, as there is a no more shoddy way to build a drawer than
to use biscuit joinery ... a guaranteed, unarguably, misguided FAIL from
the get go.
Not the way I plan to go. Still, my buddy has a biscuit joiner tool.
I was thinking the cheapest entry would be box joints. Buy a good saw,
a good chisel, and some glue. Then, borrow a boatload of clamps.
Anyone make a good joinery saw fer under $50? (saw handle). No way I
can afford one of those Rob Cosman thingies. 8|
Have a look:
(This page was the top result for "Lee Valley Japanese Saw Set", if you'd
prefer to go through Google first. ;-) )
Lee Valley is kinda the woodworking toystore, so you'll probably spend
more money than you think. But as a machinist you'll understand.
I love these saws, they're easy to use and accurate. Now, if only I
could teach myself to use these saws to their full potential.
Pull saws like this bend and wreck easily, so you must be careful as
you're cutting. Take it easy and let the tool do the work. These are
not tools that impose your will upon the wood, but rather tools that
allow you to bring out the joint hidden in the wood.
Baltic birch is a good material for a relatively inexpensive, but long
lasting, with the proper joinery, drawer boxes.
A good, medium strong joint for the plywood drawer box is a locking
rabbet joint. A joinery method that will stand the test of time in any
drawer that uses up to a 100 lb drawer slide, and is MUCH stronger than
a biscuit joint for the repeated forces a drawer must eventually withstand.
The locking rabbet joint can be made on either a router table using a
"locking rabbet" bit set, or on the table saw.
Keep in mind that many full service hardwood lumber yards carry
pre-finished, plywood drawer side material, in varying widths (but
usually 6' lengths), with a groove pre-cut for 1/4" plywood bottoms,
which can also be found pre-finished with the same polyurethane finish
as the sides.
I think you've made my choice, for me. I called our best
lumberyard/tool/cabinet shop and they sed they do not carry
pre-prepped sides in length, so I was looking for the joint which
would cost me the least in tools. So far, yer locking rabbet joint
looks to meet my criteria better than any other joint. So, thank you
for teaching me about a joint I was not even aware of.
I have a buddy, a master carpenter, who has a boatload of tools, so I
can barrow many from him. He definitely has a couple routers. Maybe
even a table. The stuff he definitely doesn't have, I'll purchase.
Today or tomorow, I'm buying the 1/4" size of these:
....as I or my buddy have nary a decent chisel fer miles. Next month,
I plan on a 1/2" B&D Sweetheart sckt chisel.
I've got my late brother's chisel (1"), but couldn't understand why it
was essentially ruined, the front edge reduced to a jagged wreck. I
later overheard someone talking (youtube?) about how carpenters always
carry a chisel to cut framing nails. Yikes! So that's what happened
to that poor chisel. That's a trick my brother never taught me.
Actually the was Swingman that pointed out the locking rabbet joint.
I mostly use this joint. It requires a sizeable investment for a
This is my Flickr account so you are probably safe in clicking. ;~)
And FWIW I typically make drawers with 1/2" Baltic birch plywood.
Here before assembly
After assembly but before the reinforcement Domino tenons added, as seen
an the above links.
1/32" is a worthy goal to shoot for, as it is easy to see on most
measuring devices with 1/16" indices ... and it also lets you
interpolate to +/- 1/64th when the need arises ... and it does:
A 1/64" gap on a joint is readily apparent. ;)
FWIW I am currently working with 4 sheets of MDO. It is 97/128" thick.
I used my digital caliper to set up my dado set to cut a groove for
that material. While it is a good idea to work or design around 1/16"
increments expect to run into instances where you need to be more
accurate than that for pieces to fit together.
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