New Pics of the Walnut table

Almost finished. Everything, except the table top top, if finished. Two coats of finish are on the table top, two more to apply.
I was worried about my spraying this large of piece (table top). Think I did okay. It looks pretty good, so for. I brushed the leg units, trestle board and other small parts.
I sprayed the top inside the shop, not outdoors. Have a few, not many, dust nibs. I'll sand, before applying the other coats.
I have never wet sanded before. Might wet sanding be the best procedure for removing dust nibs, after the final coat? Does wet sanding remove a semi gloss sheen, reducing it to a satin sheen? .... Wax after sanding?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/
Sonny
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If you are going to sand to just remove the dust nibs try simply wrapping a piece of printer paper around a small block of wood and give the surface a few back and forth passes. Works for me.
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Looking BTY!
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On 9/6/2015 7:37 AM, Leon wrote:

Um Looking Great BTW
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On Tuesday, September 8, 2015 at 11:07:50 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Thanks Leon. I had thought that's what you meant.
Sonny
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:-). Yes I do my proof reading after clicking Send.
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On Wednesday, September 9, 2015 at 7:37:21 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

In somewhat that school of thought, of proof reading, I had second guessed myself, regarding finishing this table.
Some time ago, I had thought hand rubbing a finish, onto all parts of the t able, would give it a "warm" look to it. I had assumed an oil finish would rub on, as I envisioned a hand rubbed finish would be. The problem was, I have never hand rubbed a finish on anything, from the start. I suppose F rench or Danish polishing is a hand rubbed finishing technique and I've ne ver attempted those, in their true sense of the applications.
Another objection, though, to applying an oil, was the finish darkening, in time, as with applying BLO.... and that it may not dry as I would have lik ed it to dry. I had applied BLO to the trestle board and, as I think Rober t mentioned, BLO would darken or tone down the appearance of the grain of t he walnut. So, here again, I decided not to apply an oil finish.
Some time ago, I had wondered if your hand application of the gel stains an d finishes was what I needed to do. I need to practice hand rubbing some finishes (oils only?), in order to have some confidence in their applicatio ns and what results they give, or assumes they would give... and specifical ly for this type of project.
I also recall Karl did a walnut sofa table, I think it was. I liked those results, but don't recall if he sprayed or wiped-on the finish.
Otherwise, I sprayed the finish on, which I had most confidence in. I lik ed your wiped on results. I was tempted to try a wiped/rubbed on finish, on the table, but the project was coming out so well, I didn't want to scre w it up, so I applied what/how I was most confortable with.
I felt, spending so much time building a nice project, then applying a sub par finish on it, or using subpar application technique was my handicap, h ence second guessing what I was doing. I hope the Varathane finish is an apropriate finish for this project.
Sonny
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On 9/9/2015 9:01 AM, Sonny wrote:

;~)

The type finish you choose should align with what you want to accomplish. Not all finishes add the same amount of protection and of course different finishes look different.
If protection is a priority you might look at some floor finishes.
The gel varnish finishes are, as "Nailshooter" so eloquently put it, "adult" finishes. Basically they are great but don't add a lot of protection. That said I have never had to refinish anything with a gel varnish finish. A dining table top might be asking too much of a gel finish. A hand rubbed finish would basically offer no better protection.

I have found that oil finishes tend to add a bit of a golden color to most any wood but I believe that a darkening effect might have more to wood color to start with. Some woods fade, some darken.

Gel stains and varnishes are quite a bit different from other finishes. The excess needs to be rubbed off almost immediately and with the case of Old Masters a second immediate rub down is necessary. BUT you cant screw this finish up unless you don't to the rub downs immediately. And I can't stress immediately enough.
In case you have not seen this, this is me applying an Old Masters gel varnish to a door panel. I apply a minimum of 3 coats over a few days. Note that in the beginning that I just finished doing one side and immediately flipped it over and did the opposite side. This finish is that forgiving. Needless to say the surface was relatively clean but again, you almost can't screw this up unless you wait too long to rub the finish out 2 times after application. Don't apply to too big of an area before wiping down.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/14551271662/
On another note, I used a General Finishes Arm-R-Seal on these night tables. I built two. I initially used a rag to seal the wood, wiping off the excess per the instructions. And then I applied a single final coat with a "quality" Wooster "Foam" brush.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4332857960/in/album-72157630857421932/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/4332119051/in/album-72157630857421932/

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On Wednesday, September 9, 2015 at 9:54:19 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

Yeah, you had posted this not too long ago and I watched it, then. This i s what made me consider applying a wipe-on type finish. At the time, I wa s nearing the completion of the build, so I had began thinking of my finish ing, what options for finishing, etc.
I did want something durable for the table top, since I had considered it f or the camp. I've been reconsidering bringing it to the camp, also, since it has turned out so nice. It may get "trashed" at the camp, considering there are drunkards, there, sometimes/often times.
Thanks. Sonny
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snipped-for-privacy@aol.com says...

"Hand rubbing" is actually a polishing technique. When I was much younger show cars would have "hand-rubbed" finishes. You can get any degree of gloss you want that way, but you have to start with a film- forming finish, usually lacquer--you _can_ polish polyurethane but it fights you at every turn. ML Campbell Magnamax polishes beautifully--I presume the competing products from the other big players in the industry do as well.
The classic "hand-rubbed" finish on wood is a French polish, which uses shellac--there's an oil involved as well but the oil isn't the finish, it keeps the pad from sticking to the finish.
Personally I'm lazy--if I want that kind of finish I'll shoot or brush Magnamax and then get out the ROS and Micromesh and buff it out with Meguiars 205 and a D/A polisher (not that it needs much buffing after the Micromesh).
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On 9/9/2015 5:41 PM, J. Clarke wrote:

developed from the friction/heat
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On 9/6/2015 8:35 AM, Leon wrote:

Or taking a credit card and using it as a scraper, the plastic is less hard on a new finish, than steel.
--
Jeff

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The top came out great. I'm happy. Maybe 5 dust nibs on the last coating. I burnished it with newsprint, as Leon suggested.
Now, I need some help assembling it. Three more pics. https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/?
Sonny
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So Sonny, what did you finally decide to use as a top coat? Did you prime, if so, with what?
The table looks great!
Robert
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On Monday, September 7, 2015 at 3:53:03 PM UTC-5, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

Thanks. I used Varathane water based Floor Finish, for all coats.
I'm anxious to assemble it and see the whole, as one, not piece meal.
Sonny
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