New motor wiring problem.

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I am rebuilding my jet band saw the 3/4 hp motor went and I am replacing it with a 1.5 hp. I was saving some money and bought a RO motor(Tiawan) the spec. 115/220 22/11 amps pre wired for 115. I have wired (conected 115) it according the provided diagram. The motor rotates about 2 times then pops the built breaker. Any Ideas why- I double checked the diagram b2b, w2w, green to the grounding screw. but there is also a place for a yellow and red conection. ( shown on both the 115 and 220 diagram) any sugestion.
And I am going to install a 220 circut to try it that way but that really should not matter.
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What kind of circuit do you have it attached to? I sure don't have a 120v circuit that can handle a 22a motor; it probably draws 60 or 70a at start up, and your voltage drop must be huge unless you have a short run of #10.
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22 amps is high for a 1.5 HP motor on 115 volts. And your circuit breaker is probably not as high as 22 amps. So how about some more detail about your power source? Like how many amps is the 115 volts breaker. And is the motor indeed connected for 115 volts. Your mention of the red and yellow connections for some other connection leads me to suspect that the motor connections are not correct. Bob AZ
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Ummmm.... because you're trying to run a 22A motor on a 20A circuit?
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)
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My shop-1 car garage - I have a 60 amp sub pannel fed directly from the meter about 5 ft away. All this is new It is on a 20 amp breaker off my sub panel on #12 wire. The breaker in the box is fine that didn't pop but the one on the motor does. I have uploaded the wiring diagram on the motor and the specs on the motor's breaker.
http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x31/tvfarmer/motor/motordia.jpg
I have dble cked that the the right # leads are in the correct place.
Just for clarification the motor is not hooked up to the saw yet so there is no belt hooked up so no physical load . Trying work out the bugs before getting it in place it goes in a fairly tight area.
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wrote:

Your circuit is inadequate, but that is probably besides the fact. Can we get a photo of the box with the wires?
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I am setting up a a 220 line over the weekend and see if that makes a differance. I will try to get a shot of the actual wires but it is hard o see what is going on . But what about the diagram any Ideas on the other colors noted?
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Here are some more pics
http://s185.photobucket.com/albums/x31/tvfarmer/motor /
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wrote:

What are those two other black wires coming off 1+3 and B?
The grizzly motor I got has a similar mess of wires and vague diagram but it's different, sorry can't help.
-Leuf
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By chance are you needing to connect a start or run or both capacitors to the unused yellow and red wires? Thom
wrote:

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Thom wrote:

...
Possible, I suppose, but I would expect the cap connections to be on the left side connections shown on the diagram.
I'm thinking they probably should be connected R/Y and are leads for a reversing switch if needed...but, that's _almost pure_ speculation...
OP, have you tried looking for further data from manufacturer? (There're reasons these cheapies are cheap :) )
--
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I am trying but not much luck so far. On the motor Data
I should have just bought a balder ($300?) and got it over with but this was a good deal (too good maybe) and worked in my limited budget. I bought the saw used in 98 and used it to rough out carving pieces mostly. Now I am getting into more cabnetry and wanted to do some re- sawing . Bought carter bearing guides upper and lower last year. Then the 3/4 motor goes. So I upgraded to compensate for some re-sawing. And while apart I went over everything and found the tensioner was cracked replaced that and got a Carter HeavyDuty spring also.
Maybe I should have just gotten a new saw. Sorry just venting
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Tvfarmer wrote:

...
As others have suggested, it is possible also they're the cap leads...
_ARE_ there one or more capacitors and, if so, are they connected to something already? I would have presumed them to be, but if not, that's certainly a clue.
Have you tried continuity/resistance measurements? It could be informative.
Where did you get the motor? Contact the distributor if not the manufacturer directly?
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wrote:

This is a strange wiring diagram. I don't understand why the motor needs so many wires for either 110 or 220.
I would expect that the input line for 110 would consist of black (hot), white (neutral), and bare copper or green for ground. I would expect that the input line for 220 would consist of black(hot), red (hot), white (neutral), and bare copper or green for ground. I do observe that the wiring diagram for a Jet saw shows no red and a hot white wire.
The other wires may go to the start capacitor.
Another question is why does this motor draw 22 amperes for 1 1/2 horsepower when most motors draw only 20?
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wrote:

I expect you are right about the other wires, but we won't know until he gives us more information.
Most manufacturers would call a 22a motor a 2 hp; this one is more honest. Or, it is an extremely low efficiency motor. I have a very expensive high efficiency motor that gets an honest 2hp from 18a; I didn't buy it, it came with a used TS.
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As fas as the amps goes that is what is stamped on the motor - don't know why I am going through some jet wiring diagrams to see if I can figure this out. I will be taking apart my super saw for comparison tonight.
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Tvfarmer wrote: ...

If the leads in my other response to your vent don't pan out, I'd simply take it and the diagram/data you have to my local motor service shop -- Charles has seen enough stuff he'll know immediately what is indicated by the drawing...
And, for the size, I'd run anything and everything I could on 220V. I suspect when you get this part, I'm suspecting you'll then find you have a problem w/ the 20A breaker.
--




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wrote:

Don't do that! My DC required one wire to be moved, while my TS had 4 change. They are all different.
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Thanks I will keep that in mind. Just by looking at the different jet machines(online manuals) the wiring is slightly different
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JET (WMH) buys from anyone who has stock, even if they put their own nameplate on it. Pretty much the norm nowadays. You need a motor manual, or the diagram to do the conversions. You have the diagram.
Pure speculation, but given that the starter windings have their capacitor and the run windings theirs in a cap-start/cap-run motor, the multiple leads might be for them. Don't know if they have cap-run motors in the 240V area, but never looked. As I understand it, some dual-voltage motors don't separate their windings in the 240 option, running in series instead. Betting this would play hob with the run capacitor, so maybe that's to maintain start/run in parallel.
Oh well, such as it is, my 2 kopecks. http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/elec-mtr/elec-mtr.html
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