Yeah I saw that. It appears to only stick out about 4". I doubt that I
would be standing any closer than that. Plus, it has a soft cover. About
3 weeks ago I was holding a piece of 3' long quarter round that I had just
milled. It was about 3/4" square to start. I ran it through my router
table, turned around with it pointing out from me with one end pointing at
my stomach and the other end aimed directly at the 2" wide edge of my work
bench. Oddly the end of the quarter round squarely hit the front of the
work bench and had the piece been pointed on my end it would have easily
gone through me. I bounced back off of the stick and I still have a red
spot. I can appreciate things sticking out. Ha.
I think that Kreg should have the handle stick UP when it's locked
because that's when you'll be leaning towards it with drill in hand.
I'm still unhappy with them for making a bunch of the drawer slide
alignment tools not quite 90 degrees between the front plate and the
slide holder. They said they had gotten a bunch of complaints all of a
sudden on them. They sent me a new one which is exactly like the one I
got at the local WW show. I fiddled with it for quite some time. I
ended up putting progressively thicker layers of 3M blue tape on the
horizontal member to elevate the rear of the slides so they wouldn't
droop so much. They never called me back with a resolution. I wasted
my money on that tool and the drawer holders which also aren't made
Except for the lack of versatility on stock thickness, I don't have an
issues with the K2000. the K3 looks like it incorporates some good
ideas, esp. DC. Drilling makes a mountain of a mess on and under my bench.
I just bought the K2000 a couple of days ago. I am
currently working on an entertainment center with
a lot of face frames and some strange angles.
I am always a little behind the curve with
I only wish that I had bought this thing years ago.
I don't know if it can be improved - I always hate
the plastic look in a real tool - but it has been
an awsome time-saver. My face frame joints have
never been tighter with so little effort - plus I can
screw them together and test fit before gluing.
I am sold on pocket screw technology.
Don't much care which way the clamp faces
to tell you the truth.
If you ever want to add to the convenience, get Kreg's flat plate and clamp
that can mounted in a recess in your bench. Last bunch of FF's I built I
sprung for one and speeded up the 'joining' process tremendously.
I recess mounted mine on a variation one of my plywood "i-beams"
(http://www.e-woodshop.net/Jigs.htm#I-Beam ), which also allows me to easily
clamp rails and stiles securely before torquing the pocket hole screws.
I just checked it out. The one little gripe that I encountered
with the Kreg jig was that it was sometime awkward trying
to get the clamp in the right position - I usually propped
up the FF on 2x4 scraps in order to get the clamp under it.
I can see where that plate/clamp combo would speed things
up quite a bit.
Thanks for the tip.
That does not seem unreasonable and while we ar wishing. Why not make it
auto adjusting like a pair of ViceGrips. I hate having to readjust the
plunger if the thickness of a plywood panel varies a bit.
You know I never have had a problem installing slides. I always lay the
draw side of the slide on the work bench and attach it to the bottom side of
the drawer and always lay the cabinet side of the slide on top of the face
frame opening. I cut plywood spacers to stack on top of the bottom slide on
the back end to keep sides parallel.
I have been using the K2 aluminum jig for a long time but it only works for
centering in 3/4" stock.
slide will sit perfectly perpendicular to the face plate of the Kreg
jig, THEN it will be a useful tool. Their selling point is that it
allows for fast positioning of a drawer slide. The reality is that the
slides tilt down at the rear.
How much do they tilt down? I wonder if that is to make the slides self
closing and or at least to help prevent the slide from opening on its own.
The only problem I can see is that the drawer fronts will not fit flush to
the face frame.
are having problems! He hasn't called me back with any solution other
than for me to tweak the one I have. I had hoped that by now they would
have addressed the issue properly by fixing the molds and sending out
Why does one need to buy the new expensive kreg, just for the vacuum
addition?? When you do pocket holes on a project are you going to make more
excessive dust? That's what a shop vac is for. If I were to do ph's on a
production basis, I would buy the PC outfit. Before I invest more money in
the jig I'll buy another tool/toy. My 2 cents worth.
It's been awhile, but I just had the opportunity to use my Kreg drawer slide
mounting jig again today to mount two drawers in a cabinet.
The drawer slides were those el cheapo/Euro, low profile, 3/4 extension,
white/brown ones ... the ones that have that slight dip downward at the back
of the cabinet end to facilitate closing.
I waited until after the drawers were mounted to check the 'squareness' of
the jig. As reported in this thread, it is definitely not square at the "T"
where the handle joins, at least to a well maintained 6" engineers square..
However, after installation, the top of the drawer slides _are_ square to
the cabinet front with that same engineers square, and the overlay drawer
fronts are flush with the cabinet all the way round.
IOW, the thing works, as it always has for me, without any apparent
problems. (I've only used it rarely with side mount ball bearing slides and
don't recall having a problem there either)
Go figure ... and trust me, SNAFU is the operative word in my life here
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