new jointer belt

I juat received a Yorkcraft 8" jointer and have gotten through most of the assembly. So far so good, but Ipost a review when everything is tuned. The drive belt was packaged twisted in a small box and consequently it has "remembered" this shape. When I fire up the jointer, the belt vibrates violently. There is so much mass to the machine that not much vabration is transmitted to the machine, but it is clearly not right.
Should I:
1. Harass Wilke for a replacement (there was bolt missing so I have to bug them anyway) 2. Use the belt for a while and it will "Learn" a more natural appropriate shape 3. Increase the belt tension to pull the twist out of it. 4. Accept the fact that fact that Chiwanese machines ship with sh*t-quality belts and go guy a link belt. (If so what type (are there different width/profiles?) should I get?
Thanks,
Steve
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C & S wrote:

send you another belt, but you might get the same thing you already have. An alternative, albeit more expensive is to take the old belt to your local auto parts store-- They can measure it for you & sell you an uncrimped belt-- If you have a tractor supply in your area, their prices are also competitive, but you won't get the service or knowledge you will get at the parts store
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The problem with generalities is that they are so easily proven wrong. If I need a belt, I'll go to the local tractor supply because they give better service and know 10X what anyone at the counter of our local auto parts store. They are also more likely to have some tips on installation too.
Some good hardware stores that do service on power tools, mowers, etc, will have a good selection as do some industrial supply houses. In any case, the quality of the belt is going to be equal and probably better than the OEM that you have.
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Took the words right out of my mouth.There is a farm supply nearby (Webster's in Wyoming, Ontario) and some of those guys have been there since Noah planted the seeds which grew the trees which he used to build the ark... Those guys know everything.
Quite a difference from the guys at the auto parts stores which look at me as if I have two heads.... I can see the backs of their heads from the front.. through their eyes. Without the computer.. they'd be dead in the water.
The guys at Webster know how to fit that kanutin' iron to the giggle-pin's thingamajig every time. Besides, I get to look at baby pictures which mysteriously appear from their wallets when I go there... They know I take mine black.. no sugar, no cream... the only place and time I will drink coffee.
00
Rob
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Chuck it and put the link belt on. You'll be glad you did.
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I'm UK so usual disclaimers. Check your belt, there should be a number on it. Record this for reference. Try the supplier, you've got nothing to loose. If that fails, take the old belt to a power transmission specialist. We have many. their main sales are bearings. Try bearing sales in Yellow Pages. They will be able to identify the belt for you in US references which may be different to that on the belt. They can also supply the replacement in good quality. Even if the supplier comes up with a new belt, keep the old one for reference when you need a routine replacement.
John
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C & S wrote:

Just tighten it to normal tension and use it...it will fit in shortly. It'll stretch out a little after a few weeks, so recheck tension. If it's a really cheap pos, just replace it w/ a better quality belt of the same size/type.
I've ogled a lot of Yorkcraft stuff in the catalogs but never seen any in person. One FWW review I believe indicates at least some of their jointers are produced in the same Chines factory as the Delta's. Other than the castings, I'd look at the quality of the pulleys as a factor as well--that could be one place to save a few pennies on initial cost/price point.
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#5. Have Wilke send you a link belt
Darrell
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